Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Orion Vortex Brushless motor >

Team Orion Vortex Brushless motor

Team Orion Vortex Brushless motor

Old 08-10-2007, 11:31 PM
  #151  
Tech Regular
 
Joep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 360
Default

Originally Posted by B-day View Post
I think Joep usually run on big 1/8 outdoor gas car tracks, main straights can be 80 metres+, the cars hit 60mph+, and gears to the moon.
You're right.



Our track in Apeldoorn, The Netherlands. 265 meters long. Average speed with 1/10 Electro approx. 54 km/u
Joep is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 06:14 AM
  #152  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 308
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The track i had trouble making the runtime



Perimeter is 319 meters. average speed for 1/10 is 60 Km/h
Itchy is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 06:39 AM
  #153  
V12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Itchy View Post
I have serious runtime issues with 3,5, but all my packs are 1 year old.

But i guess it depends on track. One of the tracks i race is for 1/8 gas. 400 m long. I remember i made 5.30 m runtime even with fresh packs
I think the problem are the packs being 1 year old. My IB4200 nearly 18 month old are still working but they lost a lot of runtime.
V12 is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 08:51 AM
  #154  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (213)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 31,067
Trader Rating: 213 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by B-day View Post
I think Joep usually run on big 1/8 outdoor gas car tracks, main straights can be 80 metres+, the cars hit 60mph+, and gears to the moon.
i havent ran it on a big 1/8th scale track yet, but im guessing if i gear it to the moon i may have runtime issues
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 08:53 AM
  #155  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (213)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 31,067
Trader Rating: 213 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Nexus Racing View Post
Smaller track + less traction = more run-time .

yeah we run small to medium tracks here so my bad
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 12:00 PM
  #156  
V12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rc-zombies View Post
I think they are identical motors from the same manufacturer....


anybody have a recommended FDR for the 4.5
other than what Orion recommends?
No the LRP and Orion are not made by the same manufacturer. The GM, Orion and SP and maybe the CP also are very similar.

As the LRP 5.5T is using bonded rotor from factory and the Orion 5.5T is using sintered rotor they will have different RPM or KV. The Orion in compare will need higher gearing.
V12 is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 02:57 PM
  #157  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
barber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: babados
Posts: 269
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rc-zombies View Post
I advanced the timing to my 10.5 a few degrees.. the car is a rocket.

I used Eagle Racing's new SP motor heatsink and fan....
the fan actually works on the this than the others..
where did you get the fan from.
barber is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 05:12 PM
  #158  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
 
DENNIS STORTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Horsham
Posts: 2,400
Trader Rating: 42 (94%+)
Default

my10.5 was at 230 all day long no thermal issues orfading asn it was the fastest car by far
DENNIS STORTI is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 05:16 PM
  #159  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
schreff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DENNIS STORTI View Post
my10.5 was at 230 all day long no thermal issues orfading asn it was the fastest car by far
Yes it was. Next time you drag race me like that, I'm putting ya in the wall.
schreff is offline  
Old 08-11-2007, 05:58 PM
  #160  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
 
DENNIS STORTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Horsham
Posts: 2,400
Trader Rating: 42 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by schreff View Post
Yes it was. Next time you drag race me like that, I'm putting ya in the wall.

ROTFLMAO
DENNIS STORTI is offline  
Old 08-16-2007, 03:35 AM
  #161  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 308
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi all,

As anybody managed to get the bearings out?

I tried to remove the bearings yesterday, without any sucess. Not only that, but i managed to get the motor the make a funny grinding noise, probably from damaging the bearings.

So, does anybody know how to remove and where to buy bearings for these motors?

Thanks in advance
Itchy is offline  
Old 08-16-2007, 05:52 AM
  #162  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Greg Sharpe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: ...building minis
Posts: 3,258
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DENNIS STORTI View Post
my10.5 was at 230 all day long no thermal issues orfading asn it was the fastest car by far
I was really impressed with your BL setup. Not only the acceleration, but also the brakes. Anchors! The following day at Blue Diamond it was no contest, BL ruled the day by a wide margin. No more overgrown slotcar motors for me.
Greg Sharpe is offline  
Old 08-16-2007, 07:25 AM
  #163  
Tech Regular
 
Joep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 360
Default

Originally Posted by Itchy View Post
Hi all,

As anybody managed to get the bearings out?

I tried to remove the bearings yesterday, without any sucess. Not only that, but i managed to get the motor the make a funny grinding noise, probably from damaging the bearings.

So, does anybody know how to remove and where to buy bearings for these motors?

Thanks in advance
The bearing on the pinion side can be simply removed with a bearing tool (also called a trick tool)



At the sensor side it's more difficult because you can damage the sensor if you are not very carefull.

I used the 3 short screws from the backside of the motor to built a place to let the bearing tool rest on whilst pulling the bearing.

Inserting is a little more difficult. I let the tool rest on the three sensors and used a lot of shims on the bearing site to push the bearing in place.

Did this already a few times without problems.

BTW: The funny noise can also come from a bent ventilator. It can hit the winds if a little displaced.

I dunno where to buy the bearings. Maybe you should contact Team Orion direct on their forum.

Good luck
Joep is offline  
Old 08-16-2007, 01:11 PM
  #164  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Guo Chean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indiana, PA15701
Posts: 1,492
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by canto54 View Post
yes, personnaly I use a GM 4T with 12.5mm rotor and I have a better feeling than with the 13.5mm.
It gives less dragbrake also.
Oscar told us this weekend at the euro that last batch of his motor swill have smaller diameter rotor inside.
did you gear differently by using 13.5mm rotor to 12.5mm rotor? another question is what is the actual size rotor you guy have on 10.5 BL inorder to gear 5.0 FDR? thanks
Guo Chean is offline  
Old 08-16-2007, 01:17 PM
  #165  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,285
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

i'm think use slotless BL motor faster in these big track !
RC MARKET is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.