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Old 06-19-2007, 01:20 AM   #16
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cogging is when a motor stutters, usually from stand still.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:22 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azmio View Post
i tried running my mamba max with LRP 1 star BL motor. My car went reverse and after 1-2 second it went forward. Reminded me of flintstone car.

With the 5700 mamba motor, i could not feel any difference if compared to the sensored brushless cause I also own LRP Sphere comp and Novak GTB.
Yeah i thought this would be the problem with the mamba, I guess i might as well save up and get a GM.
Thanks anyway, Drew.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:17 AM   #18
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drew

Dont get me wrong, the mamba max runs flawlessly with its own motor. I could not feel significance difference with the Novak's or LRP's in term of smoothness.

I have 3 GTBs and 2 Spheres. Almost a dozen motors from both makes. All of them dont really fulfill my need because they require gearing in the range of 8-10.5 for TCs.

Since I am running 1/10 pan cars, it's impossible for me to gear that much because the biggest spur is around 92-95 and the smallest pinion is around 12. I have a big headache if my foam tires are still new. The damn things keep on thermal or wearing out my spurs.

As I switched to Mamba, I can now gear with 90/16 and still have plenty of punch. I can now program my brake and throttle curve to suit my liking. I can even run 11.1 volt lipo if I want to. Higher voltage means less current draw which translates to higher efficiency and run time.

Mamba max is just awesome.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:31 PM   #19
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No i know, i have borrowed a mamba and ran it for a meeting in my touring car but i prefered the way the GMs and Novaks ran, when i ran the 4.5 with the GM in my pan I didn't have any problems with gearing or over heating. After a 5 min run the motor and speedy were less than 50 degrees C. I did gear higher than what i do for my touring car as you have less friction in a pan. I ran around 6.2 or 6.3 (90/15) and the car ran perfectly.
Thanks, Drew.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
You can send in your motor and exchange/replace it if you want to run sensored.
I would but the motor wasn't mine and i don't have a receipt for it.
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:43 PM   #21
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the thermal shutdown is there for a reason. I was told to keep the motor temperature below 75 degree C in order to prolong its life. I also noticed that the novak esc would shutdown the moment the motor registers 75 degree c. My novak motor lasts almost forever if i keep it below 75 degree c.

LRP and perhaps GM or orion can withstand up to 90 c without any problem and that's why the esc engineers dont bother putting any motor thermal protection. Whether that this will effect the life of the motor, I am not so sure but so far none of the X11 motor has gone bad in malaysia, even if the track temperature reaches 54 c quite frequently.
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:23 PM   #22
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Have you tired gearing around 7 FDR with a novak system, it could be getting hot because it may be undergeared, I don't know if it would heat up because of that. But it would be worth trying if mine runs so cool with similar gearing.
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