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Old 02-03-2011, 12:23 PM   #136
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Also, does anyone know the dimensions of the bearings tht would be used to replace the stock bushings? I have found kits online but I cant find the actual dimensions.

Edit: I think i may have found it, can someone confirm that they are 5x11x4? (innerDiameter X outerDiameter X width)
Ya M-04s were using 5x11, not sure about the width though. They were fantastic sprinter especially on carpet track, their world!!
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:11 PM   #137
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Does anyone run the hpi mx-5 body on the m-04? If so are the body post holes where they are marked on the body or are they offset and by how much?
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:51 PM   #138
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Does anyone run the hpi mx-5 body on the m-04? If so are the body post holes where they are marked on the body or are they offset and by how much?
Which M04?

The is the M04L (Beetle) or the M04M (Eunos Roadster).

If it's the M04M chassis you have the holes are precut in the shell and line up perfectly.

If it's the M04L chassis you have the Roadster shell will be too short, you will need to shorten the chassis to M04M wheelbase.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:56 PM   #139
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It's the 225mm version (m04m). I only ask because I wasn't sure if the premarked holes would be in the right location since the body is technically for a different car.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:14 PM   #140
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Sorry i read your post on my phone and missed the HPI part.

I've had a few HPI shells over the years, but i've not yet seen one with the post holes ready cut.

As the M04M chassis is 225mm and that shell is 225mm they should in theory fit fine.

For offsets and post holes i think it'd be unlikely the post holes would line up.

HPI list that shell for their RS4 mini




And their RTR Switch kit



Looks to me like the stock post hole dimples won't line up.
But that's no real loss as if you make the post holes before you paint the car you can see straight through so the dimples are useless any ways.

For width,
They list the RS4 Mini as 160mm wide and the RTR Switch as 164mm.
I can't find any info on if that's without wheels, with wheels and if wheels what offset though.

Just measured my M04M chassis and it's 160mm from the end of the wheel spindle to the other, so it should be close enough.


So you should be sorted.
Although obviously the far superior pop up headlamp verson of the car would look and perform MUCH better

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Old 02-16-2011, 11:12 PM   #141
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OK, I have the body cut but not painted so I can cut out the body post holes. What exactly am I lining the body up with? I've been reading online and most people are like "Just look through the body until its lined up", am i supposed to just eyeball it? I tried this and my markings were not equidistant from the premarked (dimpled) ones (like the left one would be further from it's respective premarked dimple than the right one) which concerns me since they should be perfectly centered since they were stamped by the factory. This is really stressing me out because I know if I get it wrong I won't be able to appreciate the body anymore I'll just see the misalignment every time I look at the car. Any tips?
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Last edited by OFFroadrunner; 02-16-2011 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:07 AM   #142
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Hey guys,

need your help on something. Just finished building the M04 and when i drive it the rear makes a loud clicking noise. I cant figure it out as i built it correctly and it's practically the identical gear as the m05 pro i have and that's runs silent almost.

Any pointers would be appreciated it.

Btw my setup i have is Blue springs @ the front on TRF-M Dampers with 40w oil hard on 36's on the back and 24 soft's on the front. I must say i have ALOT of grip in this car and I'm super happy with it but i ultimately want to silence that diff .
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:56 AM   #143
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Hey guys,

need your help on something. Just finished building the M04 and when i drive it the rear makes a loud clicking noise. I cant figure it out as i built it correctly and it's practically the identical gear as the m05 pro i have and that's runs silent almost.

Any pointers would be appreciated it.

Btw my setup i have is Blue springs @ the front on TRF-M Dampers with 40w oil hard on 36's on the back and 24 soft's on the front. I must say i have ALOT of grip in this car and I'm super happy with it but i ultimately want to silence that diff .
Clicking noise from the rear could have few possibilities: pinion gear mounting/installing position, a rock in either pinion or spur or idler gear, debris in the drive shaft(dogbone) / axle cup, and too much play between axle, dogbone, and diff output joint.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:58 AM   #144
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By the way, M04 uses odd numbers of pinion gears such as 17, 19, and 21 tooth. M03 uses even numbers of pinion.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:49 AM   #145
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Yea sorry i meant to say i built it like the m05 but i'm using the m04 pinion.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:56 AM   #146
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let me know after you have looked over those possible places causing clicking noise
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:28 PM   #147
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Ill check them as soon as i get home Thanks for those, ill let you know how i go.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:37 PM   #148
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OK, I have the body cut but not painted so I can cut out the body post holes. What exactly am I lining the body up with? I've been reading online and most people are like "Just look through the body until its lined up", am i supposed to just eyeball it? I tried this and my markings were not equidistant from the premarked (dimpled) ones (like the left one would be further from it's respective premarked dimple than the right one) which concerns me since they should be perfectly centered since they were stamped by the factory. This is really stressing me out because I know if I get it wrong I won't be able to appreciate the body anymore I'll just see the misalignment every time I look at the car. Any tips?
I'm still learning that myself
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:41 PM   #149
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OK, I have the body cut but not painted so I can cut out the body post holes. What exactly am I lining the body up with? I've been reading online and most people are like "Just look through the body until its lined up", am i supposed to just eyeball it? I tried this and my markings were not equidistant from the premarked (dimpled) ones (like the left one would be further from it's respective premarked dimple than the right one) which concerns me since they should be perfectly centered since they were stamped by the factory. This is really stressing me out because I know if I get it wrong I won't be able to appreciate the body anymore I'll just see the misalignment every time I look at the car. Any tips?

The older HPI mini bodies (not cup racer) should have dimples that locate correctly for Tamiya M cars. You'll notice that the front body posts are in line with the front wheel axle when you look from the side. You should see small dimples that line up there. The back of the body should also have dimples locating where those body posts go.
Put you clear and cut body over the chassis and check that you do see the 4 dimples sitting over the 4 body posts when the wheels are centered in their openings before drilling the holes.

If you look at gixer's top pic of the RS4 mini you'll see the what I'm talking about on the posts lining up with the wheel axles when you look at the car from the side which is the same for the Tamiya cars so you can use the dimples.
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:03 PM   #150
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Hey guys,

So what Tyre combination are people running ?
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