Core RC 5000mah Lipos...
#151
I ended up ording a JST EH 2S HARNESS. It has the JST EH connector on one end to connect to the CORE LiPo balance plug. The other end of the harness has a HYPERION LBA 10 balance connector which I just cut off. I then soldered on a 2mm female banana plug to the middle wire (node 1).
The Scorpion is setup for the Orion packs and thus its charger adapter (SC8ADP) has 4mm male banana plugs for battery +/- and a 2mm male banana plug for the balance tap. I simply replaced the 4mm male banana plugs with a male Deans plug. The remaining two wires (battery +/-) on the 2S HARNESS are not used; and probably shouldn't be used for charging as they are very small and not really meant to carry 5A (1C).
Just a note on the Scorpion Charger. It is a balancing charger and the balance wire from the charger must be connected properly and always used during charging (as per Howard Matos of FMA).
Anyway, I hope that helps.
The Scorpion is setup for the Orion packs and thus its charger adapter (SC8ADP) has 4mm male banana plugs for battery +/- and a 2mm male banana plug for the balance tap. I simply replaced the 4mm male banana plugs with a male Deans plug. The remaining two wires (battery +/-) on the 2S HARNESS are not used; and probably shouldn't be used for charging as they are very small and not really meant to carry 5A (1C).
Just a note on the Scorpion Charger. It is a balancing charger and the balance wire from the charger must be connected properly and always used during charging (as per Howard Matos of FMA).
Anyway, I hope that helps.
#152
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Currently I own two Orion Carbon 3200 packs that I run in my T2R. No question in my mind that if it were not for BL/LiPo, I would not be back running electrics. I have never had a problem with these batteries or my Scorpion charger, so I am definitely hooked on this technology.
Now, that being said; I just purchased a Core pack to use in my T4 with a Novak 13.5SS Pro motor. I considered several different packs before making this purchase and the excellent information provided by Shawn and Adrian were definitely a deciding factor.
Shawn provided great technical information on the technology and the Core packs. Adrian was very courteous; even suggesting a couple of competitive packs for one person because that person wasn't necessarily sold on the Core product, but Adrian wanted to ensure that if that person didn't buy the Core product, that he at least get a product with good quality and safety.
IMO, you couldn't ask for much more...
Is the big brown truck here yet with my Core LiPo?
Now, that being said; I just purchased a Core pack to use in my T4 with a Novak 13.5SS Pro motor. I considered several different packs before making this purchase and the excellent information provided by Shawn and Adrian were definitely a deciding factor.
Shawn provided great technical information on the technology and the Core packs. Adrian was very courteous; even suggesting a couple of competitive packs for one person because that person wasn't necessarily sold on the Core product, but Adrian wanted to ensure that if that person didn't buy the Core product, that he at least get a product with good quality and safety.
IMO, you couldn't ask for much more...
Is the big brown truck here yet with my Core LiPo?
#153
don't know about the 3200's but i ran my core 5000 for the first time tonight, my oh my, this battery rips.
#154
see at 8:59 sharp
#156
What are the tell tale signs that your Lipo pack (any manufacturer) has reached the end of it's life?
Thanks
Skiddins
Thanks
Skiddins
#158
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
This pack will take a VERY LONG time to wear out. The only way to kill it is to over charge it or over discharge it...but that goes for any LiPo.
#159
Have you managed to test a Core pack to see how many cycles it will actually take before performance drops off at all?
#161
Schumacher UK started doing this but gave up after 6 months of running/cycling with no changes in the pack performance. It had over 200 cycles at that time and its still running perfectly now about 8 months later with god knows how many more cycles on it.
This pack will take a VERY LONG time to wear out. The only way to kill it is to over charge it or over discharge it...but that goes for any LiPo.
This pack will take a VERY LONG time to wear out. The only way to kill it is to over charge it or over discharge it...but that goes for any LiPo.
Got to run mine in the Mi3 and it was flawless. No racing that day so I have yet to test it against my EPs. But loving that I can run back to back without charging and also use 1 pack the whole day!
Now if we can get Core to send out a better decal sheet... ;p
#163
are these lipos hard cased and do they fit a corally phi
#165
Signs that your (insert brand here) lipo pack has reached it's usufull lifespan:
1) Lipos generally don't degrade much if any at all over the normal 300+ cycle lifespan (you'll see more or less cycles depending on the brand). So... if you notice anything "it wasn't doing before" it may be time to give it a serious look.
2) Ending temperature
As a pack reaches the end of the line, it's internal resistance starts climbing rapidly with each additional cycle. The first observed result is usually a hotter pack at the end of a run. It's working harder to supply the juice, so it gets hotter than you're used to seeing.
3) Output performance
Another commonly observed result is that the pack just doesn't have the rip it used to. Internal resistance again, and as it increases the pack can't deliver the same amps it used to.
4) Reduced capacity
I make sure and get a "baseline" for pack performance soon after the 20th cycle (fully broken in pack). I record starting and finishing temps on a test vehicle, the ESC and settings used, ambient temps, and driving style/venue used. I also drive the pack all the way to the correct lipo cutoff on the ESC, and then measure the Mah the charger puts back in. Every hundred cycles or so, I do all the above again and look for differences (warmer pack, less Mah in, less power and etc.). All packs are a little different, so sometimes I'll catch a pack with less rip, or higher temps, or less Mah in than before - there's not one or another that always comes first. But looking at Mah back into the pack once you have a baseline for it is the easiest way to judge the overall pack health.
One of the main points about all this is here: Once a pack starts going "downhill" it will continue to underperform, get hot, and not take full Mah in on a steepening downward spiral with each cycle. So it's best to immediately stop using and dispose of properly a pack you're sure is on a steep decline. A "just barely alive" lipo pack can sometimes fool chargers and cause a safety hazard if they are continued to be used.
Decal sheets:
Point taken and I agree! I'll shake somebody down to have more/bigger ones made
Core pack cycles:
I continue to race, test other things with, and in general put on as many cycles as I can on the original CORE 5000 1st production pack I have. I have just under 300 cycles on it as of today, with zero degredation so far from the day I got it. This one's been used and abused as hard as I can run it under normal circumstances, so when it decides to slide it will represent a bare minimum cycle life expectation for these packs. With my previous experience with lots of different packs, this one is looking like it will end up to be a good 400-500 cycle pack.
1) Lipos generally don't degrade much if any at all over the normal 300+ cycle lifespan (you'll see more or less cycles depending on the brand). So... if you notice anything "it wasn't doing before" it may be time to give it a serious look.
2) Ending temperature
As a pack reaches the end of the line, it's internal resistance starts climbing rapidly with each additional cycle. The first observed result is usually a hotter pack at the end of a run. It's working harder to supply the juice, so it gets hotter than you're used to seeing.
3) Output performance
Another commonly observed result is that the pack just doesn't have the rip it used to. Internal resistance again, and as it increases the pack can't deliver the same amps it used to.
4) Reduced capacity
I make sure and get a "baseline" for pack performance soon after the 20th cycle (fully broken in pack). I record starting and finishing temps on a test vehicle, the ESC and settings used, ambient temps, and driving style/venue used. I also drive the pack all the way to the correct lipo cutoff on the ESC, and then measure the Mah the charger puts back in. Every hundred cycles or so, I do all the above again and look for differences (warmer pack, less Mah in, less power and etc.). All packs are a little different, so sometimes I'll catch a pack with less rip, or higher temps, or less Mah in than before - there's not one or another that always comes first. But looking at Mah back into the pack once you have a baseline for it is the easiest way to judge the overall pack health.
One of the main points about all this is here: Once a pack starts going "downhill" it will continue to underperform, get hot, and not take full Mah in on a steepening downward spiral with each cycle. So it's best to immediately stop using and dispose of properly a pack you're sure is on a steep decline. A "just barely alive" lipo pack can sometimes fool chargers and cause a safety hazard if they are continued to be used.
Decal sheets:
Point taken and I agree! I'll shake somebody down to have more/bigger ones made
Core pack cycles:
I continue to race, test other things with, and in general put on as many cycles as I can on the original CORE 5000 1st production pack I have. I have just under 300 cycles on it as of today, with zero degredation so far from the day I got it. This one's been used and abused as hard as I can run it under normal circumstances, so when it decides to slide it will represent a bare minimum cycle life expectation for these packs. With my previous experience with lots of different packs, this one is looking like it will end up to be a good 400-500 cycle pack.