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Old 01-14-2008, 06:26 PM   #1066
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I have a droop measuring question. Ryan...if your out there, please chime in.

At the track this weekend a friend was helping me with my droop. To make a long story short. I was gettting the blocks out, I have 10mm Hudy blocks an Integy droop/ride height gauge and he said put that away. He proceeded to measure the shock length and collars. He then proceeded to do the hold the tires down on the set-up board an mearsure the difference between ride height and the up travel. IE. 5mm ride height, 7.5mm uptravel with the wheels on the board equals 2.5mm droop. I think I stated that correctly...im still trying to learn. I come home, put the car on the blocks and measure the droop under the arms and the reading is about 6mm. Can you see my confusion? These 2 methods are completly different and I am trying to understand what the deal is with droop measuring. the more I think about it the more I get confused.

Does anybody have a simple explanation?
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Old 01-14-2008, 07:49 PM   #1067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
I have a droop measuring question. Ryan...if your out there, please chime in.

At the track this weekend a friend was helping me with my droop. To make a long story short. I was gettting the blocks out, I have 10mm Hudy blocks an Integy droop/ride height gauge and he said put that away. He proceeded to measure the shock length and collars. He then proceeded to do the hold the tires down on the set-up board an mearsure the difference between ride height and the up travel. IE. 5mm ride height, 7.5mm uptravel with the wheels on the board equals 2.5mm droop. I think I stated that correctly...im still trying to learn. I come home, put the car on the blocks and measure the droop under the arms and the reading is about 6mm. Can you see my confusion? These 2 methods are completly different and I am trying to understand what the deal is with droop measuring. the more I think about it the more I get confused.

Does anybody have a simple explanation?
Simple...lets see I like to use the block method because it is more accurate. This way you can confirm if the right and left arms are equal. I use the above right height method only when I need to make a change to the droop and don't have the time to put it on the blocks. This will get you in the ball park but is not as accurate. Hope this helps
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:43 PM   #1068
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I used all aluminum screws in my car except the chassis bottom and my car was 135 grams under weight!!
hi, izzit aluminium lighter than titanium ???

thanks
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:57 AM   #1069
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Aluminium is usually a bit lighter, but a little weaker.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:06 AM   #1070
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Hi driver, i've a problem with my S400..

My car have a very good balance in every condition, with foam tires it's very very fast and easy to drive, with rubber tires start the problem.. With rubber-carpet condition after 2-3 minute the rear tire begin to lose grip.. I don't understand what is the cause.. Because in the first minute the car it's very good.. Someone have this problem?

At next Snowbird I would like to partecipate at the race in the rubber class. Someone have one setup for rubber-carpet??

Thanks Fabrizio
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:43 AM   #1071
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How do you put on the tire additive? I usually sauce the rear tires 50 mins before the race, then the fronts 15-20 mins before the run.
In the past i did it for 30 mins all around but then i got these weird slides after about 2-3 minutes.
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:25 AM   #1072
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hi, izzit ur rear lose grip bcos of ur tyre overheat ?

i use to put paragon tyre treatment and soak it for 10minute b4 start race. it's work reli great for my tyre..it can last me 1 minute.

it's oso din hurt d tyre as much as trinity death grip.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:25 AM   #1073
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Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
How do you put on the tire additive? I usually sauce the rear tires 50 mins before the race, then the fronts 15-20 mins before the run.
In the past i did it for 30 mins all around but then i got these weird slides after about 2-3 minutes.
much more Additive Blue 30 min before front and post... at the snowbird the additive will Jack Corally.. I'll sauce the rear 50 min before.. thanks for help..
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:30 AM   #1074
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Hey guys, here's my setup from the DHI Cup 08, 4th place in Stock
The track was very high grip on Much More Sweep tires..
I used CS High Grip additive
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Serpent to 1/10th EP Touring Kit S400-tommybergfeldt_dhi2008_19t.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2008, 03:40 PM   #1075
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Sparx, how did the car handle ? Did it stay level in the fast corners or pitch at the front ?

I've been dabbling on carpet with making the car more level in bends which seems to have brought in more grip, but your setup goes totally the other way. I noticed as well your using the roll centres too as is Glenn Westwood. think I might give them a try.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:01 PM   #1076
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It was awesome, rear stayed planted with great cornerspeed.
We also had some trouble with the car oversteering in weird ways, like it gets heavy in the front. Moving the front arms all the way forward seemed to make the car much better.
When using the 3-1 blocks in front you have to dremel the bulkhead or A-arm to get enoguh clearance if moving the arms, i shaved the bulkheads just enough.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:53 PM   #1077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Z View Post
Simple...lets see I like to use the block method because it is more accurate. This way you can confirm if the right and left arms are equal. I use the above right height method only when I need to make a change to the droop and don't have the time to put it on the blocks. This will get you in the ball park but is not as accurate. Hope this helps
That did not really answer my question. I am wondering why there is a discrepency in the measurements. For instance. The stock set-up for the car is 3mm of droop. in order to get 3mm of droop with the car on the blocks you have to not even have the droop screw screwed in. 3mm is as low as it will go on the blocks. Am I missing something hear?
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:14 PM   #1078
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Jammin you may have said this already, do you run foam or rubbers. It is possible if your running foam to lose .5 or more on your tire in one run. That could be the difference that was seen. I know the shocks were checked, but check them again to make sure all of them are 68mm end to end. Do you have any spacers under the blocks, that could have an effect on the amount of droop you can get. I have no problem getting 5mm or more of droop and the blocks are mounted flat.
If you checked the droop at the hub that may be the difference you seen, because the bottom of the hub sits a little above the chassis. Your blocks will be more accurate, but either way you do it stay consistant on how you get your measurements.
I hope I helped you, sorry if it seems simple but those are the things that we all over look.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:16 PM   #1079
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anybody know who has a front one-way? I'm trying to get one for the Snowbirds and can't seem to find one. Even called Serpent and they don't have them.

Does the rear diff fit the front?
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:58 PM   #1080
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Originally Posted by BigTrucks View Post
Jammin you may have said this already, do you run foam or rubbers. It is possible if your running foam to lose .5 or more on your tire in one run. That could be the difference that was seen. I know the shocks were checked, but check them again to make sure all of them are 68mm end to end. Do you have any spacers under the blocks, that could have an effect on the amount of droop you can get. I have no problem getting 5mm or more of droop and the blocks are mounted flat.
If you checked the droop at the hub that may be the difference you seen, because the bottom of the hub sits a little above the chassis. Your blocks will be more accurate, but either way you do it stay consistant on how you get your measurements.
I hope I helped you, sorry if it seems simple but those are the things that we all over look.
How much droop would you run on carpet with rubber tires? Assuming you measure with blocks.
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