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Old 09-18-2007, 05:29 AM   #466
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Click on the titles. I Think wants Acrobat Reader v7 or v8 to work.
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:30 AM   #467
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I have 7 here, standard version. I'll try again, but either way it is still excellent work mate so please don't think i was knocking you !

I wonder when the official setup sheet will appear on their website ?
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Old 09-18-2007, 07:25 AM   #468
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Niko, good work... I can email you PDF of the sheet I did. It would be much cleaner that way.

I did not post the PDF here because it is 1.25 meg


Quote:
Originally Posted by nikoskar View Post
I created an editable setup.
If you find any mistakes please inform me in order to fix them.

Edit: Fixed.. Thanks for the info

Waiting more comments..
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Old 09-18-2007, 02:47 PM   #469
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Here’s my set up from this last weekend car was really well but wouldn’t suggest for mod!! If you would like to use this in mod or if you use this set up and its too loose you might want to try:
-Take the shims out from under the toe blocks
-Take 1mm out from under the inner camber links
-Add more toe in the rear like 2.0* or stock 3.0*
-If you try this set up it should be really good for either 19 or stock but if you have to use the break at all reduce the droop a lot like only 7.0mm over ride height in the front and 2.0mm-2.5mm over ride height in the rear HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!!

>>>DESCRIPTION<<<
NAME-bryan ford
DATE-9/16
TEMP-
TRACK-k-raceway (held '04 worlds)
TRACK TYPE-asphalt
TRACK CONDITION-smooth, very fast (no brakes), medium-high grip
>>>FRONT<<<
INNER CAMBER LINK POSITION-all the way out (shortest possible links)
SHIMS UNDER INNER CAMBER LINK-2mm
SHOCK POSITION ON TOWER-2nd hole in from the top
SHOCK POSITION ON ARM-all the way out
SWAY BAR-red (1.4)
FRONT TOE BLOCK-3.0*
REAR TOE BLOCK-1.0*
SHIMS UNDER FRONT TOE BLOCK-1mm
SHIMS UNDER REAR TOE BLOCK-1mm
CASTOR BLOCK-2*
CAMBER--1*
RIDE HEIGHT-5mm
DROOP OVER RIDE HEIGHT-8.7mm
DIFF-spool
ACKERMAN ON SERVO SAVER-all the way back and inner (stock)
ACKERMAN ON STEERING KNUCKLE-all the way forward
SHIMS IN FRONT OF ARM-2mm
SHIMS IN REAR OF ARM-2mm
>>>FRONT SHOCKS<<<
PISTON-3
OIL-40wt
SPRING-orange (19lb)
REBOUND-30%
>>>REAR<<<
INNER CAMBER LINK POSITION-all the way out (shortest link possible)
SHIMS UNDER INNER CAMBER LINK-3mm
OUTER CAMBER LINK POSITION-middle
SHIMS UNDER OUTER CAMBER LINK POSITION-1mm
SHOCK POSITION ON TOWER-2nd hole in from the top
SHOCK POSITION ON ARM-middle
SWAY BAR-yellow (1.2mm)
FRONT TOE BLOCK-0.0*
REAR TOE BLOCK-1.0*
SHIMS UNDER FRONT TOE BLOCK-1mm
SHIMS UNDER REAR TOE BLOCK-1mm
CAMBER--1*
RIDE HEIGHT-5mm
DROOP OVER RIDE HEIGHT-9.5mm
DIFF-tight
SHIMS IN FRONT OF ARM-2mm
SHIMS IN REAR OF ARM-2mm
>>>REAR SHOCKS<<<
PISTON-3 hole
OIL-40wt
SPRING-yellow (16lb)
REBOUND-20%
>>>CAR<<<
BODY-mazda 6
WING-mazda
TIRE-cs 27
TIRE COMPOUND-clean with buggy grip then heat with sxt 2.0 for 20 minutes at 50c then let it sit for 3 minutes then right before you go to the track clean with sxt 1.0 and wipe off.
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:01 PM   #470
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Any one know if the HB Cyclone suspension brackets work on the S400...I'd like to try using 2 to 2.5 rear toe, but the parts have to come in yet to try different brackets...It seems like the HPI Pro4 or Cyclone will work...if any one has them please try them and let us know if they work or not...thx
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:09 PM   #471
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i dont think the cyclone brackets will fit. I think the holes are to narrow on the cyclone
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:32 PM   #472
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has anybody had problem with there rear sway bar i took the rear shocks off and when you lift the arms up on the right side it does not lift the left side up when i lift the left side up it picks the right side up could it be a bad sway bar
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:05 PM   #473
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The sway bars are either bent or your links are not even. You might also want to check that the sway bar holders don't have slop on one side.
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Old 09-19-2007, 01:09 AM   #474
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Default S400 kIT and some parts

just find out a online shop can supplier a S400 kIT and some parts.
Hope can help any fans.but not so much parts.(A-arms and sterring block)

http://www.rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=730_35_868_869
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:43 AM   #475
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Smile Sedpent spring

Also hvave a original Sedpent S400 spring instock today!!
no-need useing other spring now!!

http://www.rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=730_35_868_869
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:06 AM   #476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs View Post
i dont think the cyclone brackets will fit. I think the holes are to narrow on the cyclone
Tamiya ones for the 415 do.. Nathan Parker shoudl be able to confirm this (I believe the screw hole spacing is the same). Nathan asked me the other week about them, and I mentioned the brackets look very similar to the 415 ones... guess what, they are

IIRC, the 3.0 is very similar to a Tamiya 1D, and the 2.0 close to the 1B, and the 0.0 is the same as the 1XB. As a 1.0 bracket use the 1X.

This means you can use the brackets to vary toe, and track width....
the whole range of blocks go (widest to narrowest)
1E, 1D, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD
with 0.5deg toe between each block.

In response to the previous question, for 2.5deg try 1C/0.0 or 3.0/1XA, and for 2deg try 1B/0.0 or 3.0/1X for 2deg.

N.B. Changing the rear block will narrow the rear of the car, changing the front will widen it.


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Old 09-19-2007, 04:05 AM   #477
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TryHard do you have your avatar in bigger image?
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:27 AM   #478
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The Tamiya toe Blocks will fit.
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:51 PM   #479
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S400 Editable Setup Sheet Best Quality.

Thanks TimPotter for providing me the image.
Because RCTech doesn't support pdf greater than 488.3kb i have uploaded into another server

Fixed comments field to be multiline

http://www.bestsharing.com/f/N48qAq340964

The file is 1.4mb

Sorry for any inconvenience cause.

Regards,

Nick

Last edited by nikoskar; 09-24-2007 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:32 PM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Tamiya ones for the 415 do.. Nathan Parker shoudl be able to confirm this (I believe the screw hole spacing is the same). Nathan asked me the other week about them, and I mentioned the brackets look very similar to the 415 ones... guess what, they are

IIRC, the 3.0 is very similar to a Tamiya 1D, and the 2.0 close to the 1B, and the 0.0 is the same as the 1XB. As a 1.0 bracket use the 1X.

This means you can use the brackets to vary toe, and track width....
the whole range of blocks go (widest to narrowest)
1E, 1D, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD
with 0.5deg toe between each block.

In response to the previous question, for 2.5deg try 1C/0.0 or 3.0/1XA, and for 2deg try 1B/0.0 or 3.0/1X for 2deg.

N.B. Changing the rear block will narrow the rear of the car, changing the front will widen it.


HiH
Ed

They sure do fit
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