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Old 06-02-2008, 11:15 PM   #2161
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Pray that I die might be your best bet man..
That's some harsh thinking bro. You should have taken care of that when you couldn't pull me down the straight at the Reedy......LOL
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:28 AM   #2162
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Aww comeon, I know you were watching my mains, you saw the speed!
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:36 AM   #2163
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hey guys anyone try using the HB Cyclone diff nut on the S400? Seems like they are identical to the S400 nut:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61089

I've been tipped that the TC5 diff rebuild kit works perfectly with the S400, but it doesnt come with a diff nut like HB or S400...the HB nut comes with the diff screw and its only $5.50...dont know if the HB diff screw works as well
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:09 PM   #2164
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hey guys anyone try using the HB Cyclone diff nut on the S400? Seems like they are identical to the S400 nut:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61089

I've been tipped that the TC5 diff rebuild kit works perfectly with the S400, but it doesnt come with a diff nut like HB or S400...the HB nut comes with the diff screw and its only $5.50...dont know if the HB diff screw works as well
I guess no one's tried this yet? Any try using the HB WCE diff nut and screw on the S400?
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Old 06-05-2008, 03:07 AM   #2165
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Randy YHPM
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Old 06-05-2008, 05:43 AM   #2166
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Randy YHPM
Another Mi3 jumping ship? j/k
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:06 AM   #2167
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Another Mi3 jumping ship? j/k
Nope....Randy just have some information that I would like to extract
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:36 PM   #2168
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Another Mi3 jumping ship? j/k
no way!
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:32 PM   #2169
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Yet
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Old 06-06-2008, 06:28 AM   #2170
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I tried raising the front rear susp bracket w/ 1mm shim for anti-dive...the suspension bracket is now about 1mm from the belt, and wonder if anyone who's tried raising the front suspension blocks has had problems with the belts rubbing on the suspension blocks and if it does rub will this cause faster belt wear or a noticable drag.

Also, if static weight is set towards the front of the car in this manner:

having the motor sit more forward on the bulkhead, which is usually the case in mod due to the larger spur gear, as opposed to 13.5 or 10.5, the 88-96T spurs allow the motor to be moved back about 5-7mm more than with mod motor set up. Also moving the batteries a bit forward 4-5mm, and receiver in front of batteries(Spektrum micro).

Set up #1: A set up like this should place static weight on the car in a more forward position on the chassis, which should place more weight on the front tires, helping to increase front end bite/traction and steering over all, with no need to really have to change the front wheelbase by moving arms forward or backwards, which also changes driveshaft angles, which in most cars cause the angled driveshafts to not work as effeciently.

Set up #2: If you have static weight shifted towards the rear of the car, then you should have increased rear bit/traction, and less overall front end steering...but the car should have more turn in off power entering corners, since the weight gets thrown forward according to your droop settings, and then gets thrown back again once you get on power again out of the corners, which increases rear traction once more...

A car set up with set up #2, or that is designed carry more weight in the rear, and thus deal with shifting of weight front and back, might be at a disadvantage against a car with set up #1, since the first set up doesnt need to wait for weight to be transfered to the front to gain good turn in and increased traction, since its already there from the onset. It should have better off and on power steering since it will be available almost instantly, 'cause the weight is already biased towards the front.

Hmmmm...just curious about all this wanted to share my thoughts on this and have you guys correct me on this and let me know what you all have experienced
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Old 06-06-2008, 07:42 AM   #2171
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Randy another PM backatcha
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:04 AM   #2172
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I tried raising the front rear susp bracket w/ 1mm shim for anti-dive...the suspension bracket is now about 1mm from the belt, and wonder if anyone who's tried raising the front suspension blocks has had problems with the belts rubbing on the suspension blocks and if it does rub will this cause faster belt wear or a noticable drag.
Given we use the same block setups (tam and serpent), and I'm not sure which way up your runnig the block, have you tried flipping the block upside down? We run it this way round on the tamiya's, basically provides plenty of clearance for the belt.

IIRC, the serpent manual mentions to run it this way round, with the flat section in the air, and using spacers to get the correct height (3mm IIRC)

Hope it makes sense
Ed
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:30 AM   #2173
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the Serpent block sits 1mm higher then a Tamiya block if you use the same spacer and it is mounted upside down.

the kit spacer under the front rear block is 4mm.
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:38 AM   #2174
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
A car set up with set up #2, or that is designed carry more weight in the rear, and thus deal with shifting of weight front and back, might be at a disadvantage against a car with set up #1, since the first set up doesnt need to wait for weight to be transfered to the front to gain good turn in and increased traction, since its already there from the onset. It should have better off and on power steering since it will be available almost instantly, 'cause the weight is already biased towards the front.
Just remember that the vast majority of weight transfer is due to the acceleration/deceleration of the car and the effect as it pivots around the CG. The amount of weight transfer caused by pitch/dive is almost zero.

Limiting droop does not limit weight transfer per se, what it actually does is unload the tyres (if/when you reach the droop limiters), decreasing grip and therefore decreasing the acceleration/deceleration force.

Your car with a 50/50 weight split will still transfer a lot more weight to the front of the car than the car with the 40/60 split, so will always have more steering.

However, inertia also comes into play as far as the feel of the car goes, cars with a lighter front may feel more initially responsive, this is not because they are generating more grip, it is because they do not have so much inertia to overcome to get the front of the car to change direction.

My own feeling is that the best way to judge the effect of weight distribution is mid corner, where the acceleration/deceleration force is pretty much balanced, and the tyres are working within their grip. Here, you are mostly working with static weight on the axles. If the car has a tendency to understeer mid corner, it probably needs more static weight to the front to bring up the load/grip. If it has a tendency to oversteer mid corner, try a little more weight to the rear.

Another good test is the transition from braking/balanced/acceleration. If the car is loose on power, more weight over the rear will help, if the car understeers on power, move some weight forward.

What is also interesting is that different peoples driving styles have a different affect on how they feel the weight transfer. I know a lot of racers who just drive the thing and don't really notice the difference between setups apart from it being good or bad. Equally I know racers who like to slide the car, and others (like myself) who try and keep all four wheels working at the same time. Personally I beleive that in touring car smooth is fast, but there are some very aggressive drivers out there that are really quick indeed.
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:15 AM   #2175
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Given we use the same block setups (tam and serpent), and I'm not sure which way up your runnig the block, have you tried flipping the block upside down? We run it this way round on the tamiya's, basically provides plenty of clearance for the belt.

IIRC, the serpent manual mentions to run it this way round, with the flat section in the air, and using spacers to get the correct height (3mm IIRC)

Hope it makes sense
Ed
Hi Ed. Thanks for your post bro...yes, Serpent S400 manual wants us to run the front rear suspension bracket upsidedown, meaning the number on the bracket is in the air, and facing down facing the chassis below. All others are in their normal position, where the number on the block is facing up and you can see it if you look at the car from a top view downwards.

Do you mean to try and run the front rear block in the normal position like the rest of the blocks? I'll try that and see how it goes...
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