Tamiya TA05 IFS
05-16-2009, 01:30 PM
#901
As for tires, run what the fast guys at your track run. Every track is different. At our track they use Sorex 36R all year around cause they just work...
05-17-2009, 06:08 AM
#902
Do you or anyone ever have problem with stock TA05-IFS front upright? It seems it can't take too much bashing. It easily comes off due to the bottom screw (3x8mm) that goes through the suspension arm and into the bottom hole of the front upright not being able to hold it. The hole just gets wrecked.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
05-18-2009, 08:50 PM
#903
Front uprights / Steering arm
Do you or anyone ever have problem with stock TA05-IFS front upright? It seems it can't take too much bashing. It easily comes off due to the bottom screw (3x8mm) that goes through the suspension arm and into the bottom hole of the front upright not being able to hold it. The hole just gets wrecked.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
05-20-2009, 11:58 PM
#904
One way
Has anyone used both front one way and center one way on TA05-IFS? I only have front one-way. If there is a benefit of using center one-way, I would consider getting it, too. Thanks for the advice.
05-21-2009, 08:35 AM
#905
Using both one-ways is supposed to smooth & increase turn-in a little more. It also makes it more even left to right. My buddy said he could tell a definite difference when adding the center one-way to his TF-5 Stallion. It's also supposed to make the drivetrain more effecient at high-speed, though I could not tell you how...
It's probably not worth the extra expense though.
It's probably not worth the extra expense though.
05-21-2009, 10:10 AM
#906
The Japanese Factory Driver use double 1-way because it was running with a high turn 23T motor on a hugh track...you want those slow motor to carry the MOST speed to the car without losing any...I think thats why he decided to use BOTH. And I know alot of ppl start up using the center 1-way because they are like $20...instead of the front 1-way $40, the center 1-way is a cheaper way for a taste of running 1-way...but still, I would think using the actual front 1-way is the right way to start first...then pick up the center 1-way for extra adjustment.
I use only front 1-way for silver can and 17.5 and it is plenty fast on carpet and outdoor parking lot track...unless I am running some 1/8th on road track, I don't think that is necessary...beside, if you go for a bigger track, you should not run silver, 23T or 21.5 BL...go for something faster then 10.5 BL.
About the C-hub not holding the screw...my case, still using the same hub since early 2008...I have not break any hub so far nor I open the car and clean them, and I think thats why they are holding up pretty good. Try NOT to take off the screw and rework the hub/bearing too much...you only need to work on these area when you have to, otherwise, Tamiya is a pretty strong car for beater....(I used the IFS R for indoor carpet, then use it for outdoor GT3 or GT1, then pretty soon will use it for RCGT by only changing motor and tires...and adjust setting per track condition).
For outdoor IFS-R setup...use the Japanese Factory driver setup for starter...I used that last year for 17.5 and only need to do minor setup to adopt the track...very good start up setting. You can find that at TamiyaUSA site under TRF
I use only front 1-way for silver can and 17.5 and it is plenty fast on carpet and outdoor parking lot track...unless I am running some 1/8th on road track, I don't think that is necessary...beside, if you go for a bigger track, you should not run silver, 23T or 21.5 BL...go for something faster then 10.5 BL.
About the C-hub not holding the screw...my case, still using the same hub since early 2008...I have not break any hub so far nor I open the car and clean them, and I think thats why they are holding up pretty good. Try NOT to take off the screw and rework the hub/bearing too much...you only need to work on these area when you have to, otherwise, Tamiya is a pretty strong car for beater....(I used the IFS R for indoor carpet, then use it for outdoor GT3 or GT1, then pretty soon will use it for RCGT by only changing motor and tires...and adjust setting per track condition).
For outdoor IFS-R setup...use the Japanese Factory driver setup for starter...I used that last year for 17.5 and only need to do minor setup to adopt the track...very good start up setting. You can find that at TamiyaUSA site under TRF
05-21-2009, 11:32 AM
#907
IFS-R has different suspension components from the IFS. It's the newere 1050 bearing steering knuckles and their carbon...
On my 415MSX, which has the same steering knuckles as the IFS (except carbon), I run a 10mm button head screw up into the bottom. I've never had a problem with the screw backing out. Of course the carbon knuckle may hold the screw better than the plastic version on the IFS...
On my 415MSX, which has the same steering knuckles as the IFS (except carbon), I run a 10mm button head screw up into the bottom. I've never had a problem with the screw backing out. Of course the carbon knuckle may hold the screw better than the plastic version on the IFS...
05-21-2009, 11:44 AM
#908
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
Do you or anyone ever have problem with stock TA05-IFS front upright? It seems it can't take too much bashing. It easily comes off due to the bottom screw (3x8mm) that goes through the suspension arm and into the bottom hole of the front upright not being able to hold it. The hole just gets wrecked.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
05-21-2009, 01:17 PM
#909
IFS-R has different suspension components from the IFS. It's the newere 1050 bearing steering knuckles and their carbon...
On my 415MSX, which has the same steering knuckles as the IFS (except carbon), I run a 10mm button head screw up into the bottom. I've never had a problem with the screw backing out. Of course the carbon knuckle may hold the screw better than the plastic version on the IFS...
On my 415MSX, which has the same steering knuckles as the IFS (except carbon), I run a 10mm button head screw up into the bottom. I've never had a problem with the screw backing out. Of course the carbon knuckle may hold the screw better than the plastic version on the IFS...
But...it still run GREAT. (and again, my screw came off 1 or 2 times ONLY I have the whole front end sheered off due to accident/mistake when running outdoor couple times with the '2x4 board meeting"....) The screw just never came off my itself on me...so far.
05-21-2009, 01:22 PM
#910
Do you or anyone ever have problem with stock TA05-IFS front upright? It seems it can't take too much bashing. It easily comes off due to the bottom screw (3x8mm) that goes through the suspension arm and into the bottom hole of the front upright not being able to hold it. The hole just gets wrecked.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
It happened to me every 3 full day run. OK honestly at the time I was still pretty new to RC and didn't handle my car well so I bashed it quite a bit. So I got pissed and ordered 3Racing aluminium front upright online.
While waiting for it to arrive, I did some research and found that Tamiya never produces metal front upright due to the stiffness causing instability in steering. So what I did, I used a longer screw, 3x10mm, and liquid thread lock on a pair of new front uprights. It has now last for about almost 10 full day runs with no problem. I haven't used the 3Racing aluminium front uprights as yet.
OR...if you want to savage the old steering..
Take the old hub off (just leave the hub only, no CVD or bearing inside)...clean that lower screw hole nicely, then coat a thin layer of CA within...rim around the hole, let it set overnight...that why, the CA coated the threaded hole and made the hole smaller...now, bolt in a 3x10 screw and that would tighten the screw...however, in several case (from me) the CA was not dry enough and ended up CA the screw as well....but that is OK for me.
I don't recommand this methrod but I did this couple time in my life because I don't have a spare knuckle for the other car...so I have no choice.
05-21-2009, 11:51 PM
#911
I think some of you misunderstood it. It is not C hub (51293) I am having problem with, but the front upright (51296). The screw just goes through C hub with flanged tube surrounding it and goes into the front upright.
Since that few incidents, I actually have been doing the tricks that some of you are suggesting. I pour a little bit of thread lock liquid, let it dry, and use a 3x10mm screw. It works wonder. Thanks for sharing the tricks anyway.
So I am glad that the problem is not me, but the design of the car itself. I think what I would is I would try TB Evo5 carbon upright (51103) and see if it holds better than 51296.
About the under-steering issue on TRF416 thread, it is the plastic C hub not plastic front upright that is preferred, isn't it? Sorry for asking but I just want to make sure as the 2 are easily mistaken.
Thank you to all of you guys!
Since that few incidents, I actually have been doing the tricks that some of you are suggesting. I pour a little bit of thread lock liquid, let it dry, and use a 3x10mm screw. It works wonder. Thanks for sharing the tricks anyway.
So I am glad that the problem is not me, but the design of the car itself. I think what I would is I would try TB Evo5 carbon upright (51103) and see if it holds better than 51296.
About the under-steering issue on TRF416 thread, it is the plastic C hub not plastic front upright that is preferred, isn't it? Sorry for asking but I just want to make sure as the 2 are easily mistaken.
Thank you to all of you guys!
05-22-2009, 12:46 PM
#912
You are correct. The more flexible plastic c-hub adds some steering and should alows more give before breaking in a crash. Definitely worth a try since they are cheaper to boot...
05-23-2009, 11:50 PM
#913
I ve been thinking of getting the TA05 IFS as my second car. I do have TRF416WE, but that car I reserved it for indoor carpet. Now I want something that is cheaper than 416 to run it outdoor on foam tyres. I usually run mod class with 3.5-4.5t motor. My q's are:
1. Can the box stock IFS be run with mod motors? Or do I have to buy options parts for it? The mildest motor I have is 5.5t.
2. Will it handle good on foams?
BTW I can only get the normal IFS not the IFS-R, its not available anywhere anymore...at least here in my country.
1. Can the box stock IFS be run with mod motors? Or do I have to buy options parts for it? The mildest motor I have is 5.5t.
2. Will it handle good on foams?
BTW I can only get the normal IFS not the IFS-R, its not available anywhere anymore...at least here in my country.
05-24-2009, 07:46 AM
#914
dameetz, The IFS-R is the car you want to find. Try online shops such as Stellamodels, RCmart, Vellrip, and even ebay. The R version has all the right hop-ups in one box. I have one with a Tekin 4800kv system and its fantastic! I cant comment on how good the car is on foams, I run outdoors with rubber tires, but I see no reason why it wouldnt run well on foams with a stiffer set-up.
05-24-2009, 08:08 AM
#915
dameetz, The IFS-R is the car you want to find. Try online shops such as Stellamodels, RCmart, Vellrip, and even ebay. The R version has all the right hop-ups in one box. I have one with a Tekin 4800kv system and its fantastic! I cant comment on how good the car is on foams, I run outdoors with rubber tires, but I see no reason why it wouldnt run well on foams with a stiffer set-up.