GCT69

iTrader: (10)

if your using IFS r then it's using the same knuckles as the 416, try ampdraw.com

arj

Thanks GCT69

No, I don't have the IFS-R, just the standard IFS. I think the IFS has the shorter suspension which is why they may be different knuckles.

Anyone out there get a carbon reinforced front steering knuckle into a IFS?

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

well if it has a short susp. then I guess you could use the carbon reinforced. Do you have a part #?

inconceivable

iTrader: (3)

Found it at http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30

This is great information, thanks !

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

My brian hurts from all the info....

arj

OK here is what I can gather w.r.t the front steering knuckles:

Model............Glass Filled.....Carbon Filled
TA05.............50867...........53579
TA05IFS.........51296...........????
TA05IFS-R......n/a...............51332 (not certain if this is carbon or glass)

So I have the TA05IFS (with standard suspension, not the short one) and am wondering if Tamiya makes a carbon filled part for the IFS or whether another one might fit.

Thanks

GCT69

iTrader: (10)

best thing to do is e-mail tamiya usa itself, they are pretty fast in replyin.

Anybody fitted their IFS with a gt10 body? I'm thinking of putting one in but don't know where I can get one. ( Various selection?

Hatebreed

what oil should i fill the trf dampers with? what i can see in most cases people uses 40wt/3holes in the front and 30wt/3holes in the rear or am i wrong here?

also the diffs are quite open with the 37t pulleys, are there any ways to protect them from collecting dust, as they are now they need to be rebuilt quite often i can imagine

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

Depends on what surface you racing, I used AE 50wt in front with 3 holes and tamiya yellow on my rear with three holes. As far as diff covers , ck out rcmart or some HK stores, I think they sell em. (search under TRF 416)

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I'm trying to adjust downstop/droop on my IFS-R, and I'm having serious trouble getting this to work. Either my chassis is way off, or I have done something wrong and can't figure it out.

See attached photos.

No matter what I try, the battery side rear arm is about 3mm higher than
the motor side rear. The droop screws are backed out completely. I have loosened all the screws on the bottom of the chassis thinking maybe tweak. I have removed the arms and reinstalled them. I can't figure this one out.

We have a TCS race (my first) in 3 weeks, and I haven't had any quality track time with this chassis.

HELP!!!

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

make sure your chassis is flat
check to see if the hinge pin for the screwy arm is straight
loosen the suspension blocks and tighten them down in a cross pattern
also check to see if your arms move freely up and down

thats all i can think of .....

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

Looks like to me you have the wrong type of suspension mount in the front of the rear. Looks like a rear mount that's been flipped over.

Should look like this: (these are the front ends rear mount and the rear ends front mount)


Where as it looks like you have a normal one flipped over since I don't see the lettering on top. (These are the front ends front mount and the rear ends rear mount.

DRAG_ON

i got this similar problem before, i find out my hinge pin is bent .......... my suggestion check your hinge pin mate ......... it might solve your problems

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Yeah. The chassis seemed to rock slightly, but it's tough to tell because the edges of the chassis are curved. I think that it's pretty flat though. Your other suggestions I already tried.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Yeah, I looked at that also. Unfortunately, I haven't had enough track time to bend or break anything.