cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

question?

when I ran my car last weekend the car is twitchy coming out of the corners (ever since I change to a 3racing chassis), my set up was the same with the tub.If I install my rear stabilizer bar will this help? also if I make my car longer will this help too?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

One thing to keep in mind is this car in any incarnation needs more neg camber than most cars. I usually run -2.5 as a starter. For foam it was more than that!

When I switched to the short arms the car seemed more stable...that's about all I felt.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

is Option !

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. That's a real possibility. You really know your stuff.

I tried really hard to make the shock length the same for each shock. Maybe, I need to back off a bit.

What shock length do you recommend? Do you use any spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body (internal limiters) to reduce shock length?

I was hoping to use my springs from my Super Mini CVA shocks that I used on my Spec Class TT-01 kit. I have a full set of the short springs. The only long springs I have are the ones included with the IFS-R kit.

While we're talking suspension, what sway bar(s) do you recommend?

Thanks!

padailey

iTrader: (11)

I'll keep the camber thought in mind. It isn't very often the traction locally is high enough that it is a problem but the TA nats and some of our bigger races here it has caused some issues.

Thanks Core for the thoughts on the arms. Do you think they are worth investing in or just nice to have?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

They are just nice to have...not a must have.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

You've changed it into a completely different car, so your setup will certainly have to change.

If you install a rear sway bar the rear end will become even looser. I'd start by laying the tops of the rear shocks inwards a notch at a time. After that you could change to a softer rear spring.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

When using the carbon rear shock tower, are you supposed to mount the body posts in front or back? When I mount them in front like the instructions say, the camber link hits them. Could it be because I converted it from an 05R?

I don't see the harm in mounting the posts on the rear of the tower, but just wanted to see what you guys thought.

redbones

yes, you need to swap them to the rear of the tower.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I built the shocks exactly to the manual. I've only had the car a short while and with Tamiya kits I've found that if you follow the manual precisely you get a solid and forgiving starting setup. It seems they put a lot of testing and thought into that. If you've screwed the shock shafts in to the point where no threads or shoulder show then that's probably too far.

I don't see any need to reduce shock length. You wouldn't want the shocks to be topped out at normal ride height or you wouldn't get any droop.
I haven't checked to see if the shorter springs will fit, but there's probably enough adjustment to the threaded collars to do it. As long as they don't fully compress before your chassis bottoms they'll be fine, but you'll have to experiment to find which spring rate to choose.

The IFS-R comes with 4 red springs, which is pretty soft. I don't run sway bars at all. I'm on outdoor asphalt and have never needed them. We just resurfaced our track and it's way grippy now, so I may try light ones and see what happens, although I'm pretty happy with how the car handles right now.

redbones

Your car is almost 100g lighter with that conversion so you need to change everything. You lost the chassis flex from the tub, so you will have to to change the shock settings to compensate. You can also fiddle with the steering setting on your radio to make the car less reactive.

redbones

definitely back off on the shock ends right to the point where it becomes loose. You do not need internal spacers for cars that has droop screws. Get yourself a set of these:
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-5...rd-p-4593.html.
Actually, most touring car spring sets work, so experiment with this first. I found it to be good when you use a one step harder spring on the front of the IFS cars.
I don't use sways in general. I might want to use it on a super grippy surface, but on outdoor asphalt I don't see a need for them.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

That's exactly what I did. I have no thread or shoulder showing. I'll be sure to back off a bit.

Confession time: I just returned to RC after a 2+ year layoff. Despite my best efforts, I have forgotten some things. My return began October 2008 in a spec class TT-01. Never thought that I'd run a chassis like the TT-01 (snobbery), but I haven't had this much fun in my previous 11 years of RC. It's a blast.

Anyway, I completely forgot about the use of droop in tuning. The TT-01 (non- Drift kit) doesn't do droop.

I'm sure all of that RC knowledge will return. I hope.

BTW, my TA05 IFS-R came with white springs (w/red dots on the bottom). We are very fortunate to have an indoor asphalt track (almost pool table flat) with high grip. I will stick with the kit settings as you recommend.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the suggestions. Have you purchased from eTamiya? I haven't used them, but I'm finding that many of the replacement and option parts aren't available locally. When I search online, the majority of the shops that have the parts I want are located in the Far East. I don't mind ordering there, it's just the wait.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Yeah, those are the "red" springs. Tamiya makes a set identical to the one redbones linked to but with all-white springs except for a dot at one end identifying the color. This is so other guys at the track can't tell what setup you're running. The standard sway bar kit is color coded as well, but the IFS-R comes with the "stealth" all-black bars for the same counter-espionage reason.

Also like redbones said, it is common to use a slightly harder spring up front than in the rear. If you find that you have oversteer that is the first thing I'd try. Go to yellows in the front and keep the reds in the rear.

I get many of my Tamiya parts from speedtech (www.speedtechrc.com). They're in the Los Angeles area and are a great shop and strong supporters of the hobby. Stuff they don't carry I order from Hong Kong or Japan.

Here's the spring set you should get (they're out of stock right now but here's the info):

springs at speedtech