Blueman Austria

Hy!

On this pictures it looks like that you have mounted the C-Hubs the wrong way!!!

Normaly the have the L and R on it.
Take a lok !

Greetings Blueman

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

And the front shocks are upside down for the IFS configuration. The heavy parts (shock cap side) should face the outside of the chassis to lower the CG.

Blueman Austria

Another building fault !

The holes wich are used on the steering knuckles are also not the same (L andR)

Look at the manual!

RangerWalker

Hi all, after 7hours of building it it is allmost done! (the 3x32mm tb is not here yet)

Does everything look ok?




That esc is very difficult to install to level.

Now i need to hide the wiring better....

I did not use drill or glue on this-and i dont want to, can i just ca the pins on lower arms?

oh, and the chassis/motor mount does not need to be cut- i did not cut it and there is over 5mm clearence.

redbones

I highly suggest you thread those setscrews for the pins. You don't want them coming out and carve your rims. Glue is also not recommended since those parts tend to break.

RangerWalker

Ok.

What about the diff plates -should i glue them? -and can i use ca on it? (i have 4 brands of ca and nothing else)

nemix

iTrader: (24)

I've never built a tamiya kit before, but i'm going to pick one up to race in a TCS race in July...

the IFS-R is much harder to come by, and costs more then the standard TA05 IFS... should i wait to find a -R thats not over priced or a trillion dollars in shipping.. or just get the standard IFS.

whats the main difference in performance?

RangerWalker

Well, there is alot of expensive stuff included in this "R" -kit.

The shocks alone are about 50$, stabilizers 10$,alloy turnbuckles$$$,different diffs/belts...

It has alot extras but no body or tires. Standard TA-05/IFS comes w/body and tires.

I belive that regular version is good enough for starts,but if you plan to uppgrade it later ,it will cost more in the end.

And for first build... i think this was really easy kit to assemble -i only wish that Tamiya would use color pics in manual, so i would have seen -not try what color spacers/etc. goes where.

Interceptor

iTrader: (6)

Gearing question

Trying to gear my TA05R for a 13.5 motor. I've been told that 5.0 to 4.5 is a good final ratio. Using 64 pitch, I have a 100 tooth spur, and I need a 45 tooth pinion, which I can't find anywhere.

What gear pitch are you guys using, and what spur/pinion combos are you running? I need this info asap. thanks guys.

RangerWalker

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...064P%20-%2045T

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Interceptor - I'm using an 88T spur with pinions from 40 to 44 giving me FDRs from 4.5 to 4.95.

RangerWalker - The R version is great if you plan to upgrade parts, if not then the regular version is a deal because it includes a body. Howevr, the tires leave a lot to be desired so if you're racing TCS then I suggest Type A or Type B tires and the blue foams.

YES use the grub screws on the lower arm pins DO NOT glue. Also the Mamba Max and Sidewinder are too long to fit properly in the chassis. One of my race friends tried to set his Sidewinder on it's side but then it overheated due to lack of airflow. He then placed it on a built up platform but it came loose and was destroyed by dragging on the asphalt. He switched to a Speed Passion which just fits and now he's happy. I'm using a Novak GTB which fits too and waiting for the new Tekin RS which has the smallest footprint.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Which one is the C-hubs and steering knuckles holes?

limbohz

iTrader: (26)

whoops. just checked out the manual.

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

My IFS-R will be here tomorrow...here's a question to those that know...Will the original front spool and Oneway from the original 05 work with the new diff pulleys?

nemix

iTrader: (24)

where did you order from?