Tamiya TA05 IFS

Old 05-12-2008, 05:34 PM
  #181  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Matthews, NC
Posts: 199
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Without having time to read over 6 pages of stuff right now, I'll ask probably again, is it possible to change over a TA05 MS to the IFS R? I would like to be able to run in the GT2 race, so I would need the tub chassis. I found a IFS R for around $210, but I'm on a tight budget and would like to just buy the parts if I can. Anyone have a part list for the conversion?
Interceptor is offline  
Old 05-13-2008, 11:19 AM
  #182  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,326
Default

I don't think it is possible to convert the 05MS to an IFS unless you do some serious modification and fabrication.

IMO, the IFS-R is again, just like the 05-R, is a great deal for the amount of stuff you get. Even better, it uses the same drive train and suspension compnents as the 416. Having those 1050 bearings will make a difference in bearing life. It uses the new large diff rings so the diff will be smoother.

Best of all, those new Super GT bodies rock. I'm in it for the GT-R body when it comes out.
redbones is offline  
Old 05-13-2008, 05:28 PM
  #183  
HCS
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 13
Default

Thanks for the advice AreCee.
HCS is offline  
Old 05-15-2008, 11:51 AM
  #184  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Kevin CBR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: "Racing Budget" is an oxymoron
Posts: 3,980
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Interceptor View Post
Without having time to read over 6 pages of stuff right now, I'll ask probably again, is it possible to change over a TA05 MS to the IFS R? I would like to be able to run in the GT2 race, so I would need the tub chassis. I found a IFS R for around $210, but I'm on a tight budget and would like to just buy the parts if I can. Anyone have a part list for the conversion?
Most suspension parts will be interchangeable but the bulkheads and motor mount for the TA05 MS will not work on the regualr TA05 chassis. Your better off running the MS in GT-1 or getting a TA05-R or IFS-R if you reaaly want to run GT-2. Don't expect someone to have a "conversion" list because it's doubtful many people have "down graded" their carbon chassis car to a plastic tub car. You could also download the manuals from Tamiya and see what parts are different between the two if you want to do the work.
Kevin CBR is offline  
Old 05-17-2008, 11:57 AM
  #185  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,050
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Anyone got their hands on the new TA-05 IFS-R? Would like to know what are the suspension blocks used all round and what is the swing shaft(Dog Bone) length used?

Thanks in advance.
mikecan8 is offline  
Old 05-17-2008, 10:14 PM
  #186  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,326
Default

From front to back.
1B
1A
1XB
1D

46mm swing shafts


Building it now, but came across a serious design flaw.
The ball diff, uses the 416s large diff rings. it fits on the high precision plastic outdrives. However, the ring slips on the outdrive, resulting in a diff that slips no matter how hard you tighten it. The instructions tell you to use rubber cement to glue the rings to the outdrive even then, it is only as good as how strong the adhesive is against shearing.

Last edited by redbones; 05-18-2008 at 04:27 AM.
redbones is offline  
Old 05-18-2008, 03:34 AM
  #187  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,050
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Redbones. As for the Diff outdrives, IMHO its better to use the alloy ones as they are stronger and not as much a pain in the a** to use when putting in shafts.
mikecan8 is offline  
Old 05-18-2008, 04:25 AM
  #188  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,326
Default

yeah I think so too. Those high precision outdrives plastic is too smooth (like nylon) and the rings have nothing to grab onto. The old TA05 had "D" rings that fit nicely into those outdrives.

The 416 has uses round rings, but have no issue of slippage since it is on metal to metal.

Also, maybe it's just me... there is supposed to be a 2mm washer for the front suspension spacers but I got 1mm ones instead.

Other things of notice:

1. You need to shave parts of the chassis where the belt might rub. Guess it was not designed to take anything over 36T pulley. No problem once you shave it.

2. There are four screws holding down the center shaft. If you tighten all four, it causes binding on the bearings. I took out the front two and the bind went away with no slop. Still need to test it out like that.
redbones is offline  
Old 05-18-2008, 10:25 AM
  #189  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,050
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Redbones, is it possible to trouble you to have a setup sheet with the TA05 IFS R setup all filled up and posted on the net if its not too much of a hassle. I would like to convert my IFS to the short arm as on the IFS R but have no basis to do so. Like the suspension arm spacers, camber link spacers and etc. With them available then I will be able to better evaluate the setup given up by the factory as I have been driving the IFS with long arms and find it quite nice to drive already. But am a little interested to find out if the short arms would make it a better car like the 416 is with short arms.

Also thanks for the tips on building the car. Will take note on when I convert mine to 37/18 pulley.

Thanks for the tips and sorry for the trouble I caused you.
mikecan8 is offline  
Old 05-21-2008, 02:49 AM
  #190  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 26
Default

Hi all!

I just ordered the Ifs-r model, and it is going to be my first belt driven car.

What is that i read about static elec. W/ mg servos on r-model? -is it the same with this new ifs-r one too?

And did i order a lemon(what redbones wrote)??

I wanted a car that i can drive around my local track using MM5700 and 6-cell Ni-mhs.

,
and i thought that this could be the one.(my TT-01 is not that good on track)

What kind of gearing would be good? -i ordered the 32t and 33t ones for start with the kit(105t spur i belive)

Last edited by RangerWalker; 05-21-2008 at 04:21 AM.
RangerWalker is offline  
Old 05-21-2008, 10:01 AM
  #191  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,366
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Building it now, but came across a serious design flaw.
The ball diff, uses the 416s large diff rings. it fits on the high precision plastic outdrives. However, the ring slips on the outdrive, resulting in a diff that slips no matter how hard you tighten it. The instructions tell you to use rubber cement to glue the rings to the outdrive even then, it is only as good as how strong the adhesive is against shearing.
Have you tried sanding the diff outdrives and the side of the diff rings that attach to the outdrive? This will help with the rings gripping the outdrives, especially if you use a small dollop of greese there... You'll have stiction from the greese, and the sanded surfaces will provide a good mechanical key.

Save gluing the rings to the outdrives.

HiH
Ed
TryHard is offline  
Old 05-21-2008, 01:46 PM
  #192  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,282
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RangerWalker View Post
Hi all!

I just ordered the Ifs-r model, and it is going to be my first belt driven car.

What is that i read about static elec. W/ mg servos on r-model? -is it the same with this new ifs-r one too?

And did i order a lemon(what redbones wrote)??

I wanted a car that i can drive around my local track using MM5700 and 6-cell Ni-mhs.

,
and i thought that this could be the one.(my TT-01 is not that good on track)

What kind of gearing would be good? -i ordered the 32t and 33t ones for start with the kit(105t spur i belive)

nice track !
RC MARKET is offline  
Old 05-21-2008, 02:01 PM
  #193  
Tech Addict
 
Skitee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 745
Default

Originally Posted by redbones View Post
yeah I think so too. Those high precision outdrives plastic is too smooth (like nylon) and the rings have nothing to grab onto. The old TA05 had "D" rings that fit nicely into those outdrives.

The 416 has uses round rings, but have no issue of slippage since it is on metal to metal.

Also, maybe it's just me... there is supposed to be a 2mm washer for the front suspension spacers but I got 1mm ones instead.

Other things of notice:

1. You need to shave parts of the chassis where the belt might rub. Guess it was not designed to take anything over 36T pulley. No problem once you shave it.

2. There are four screws holding down the center shaft. If you tighten all four, it causes binding on the bearings. I took out the front two and the bind went away with no slop. Still need to test it out like that.

Redbones instead of taking 2 screws out of the center plate you can do what I did, you'll need Tamiya 53585 RC 3mm Shim Set and put one 0.3mm shim under each corner of the center plate This eliminates the binding of the center shaft bearings.
Skitee is offline  
Old 05-21-2008, 06:27 PM
  #194  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Kevin CBR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: "Racing Budget" is an oxymoron
Posts: 3,980
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RangerWalker View Post
Hi all!

I just ordered the Ifs-r model, and it is going to be my first belt driven car.

What is that i read about static elec. W/ mg servos on r-model? -is it the same with this new ifs-r one too?

And did i order a lemon(what redbones wrote)??

I wanted a car that i can drive around my local track using MM5700 and 6-cell Ni-mhs.

,
and i thought that this could be the one.(my TT-01 is not that good on track)

What kind of gearing would be good? -i ordered the 32t and 33t ones for start with the kit(105t spur i belive)
A big part of the static is caused by the aluminum center pulley plate bolted to the aluminum (hop-up) motor mount. The IFS-R comes with the stock pot metal motor mount. If you do get static, put the stock plastic center pulley plate on and ant glitch issues should go away.

You did not get a lemon and the TA05 is a huge leap higher in quality, design and adjustability than a TT01. You will be happy with the car once you get it toghether and run it a few times and adjust the suspension to your driving style.
Kevin CBR is offline  
Old 05-22-2008, 02:26 AM
  #195  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 26
Default

Originally Posted by Kevin CBR View Post
A big part of the static is caused by the aluminum center pulley plate bolted to the aluminum (hop-up) motor mount. The IFS-R comes with the stock pot metal motor mount. If you do get static, put the stock plastic center pulley plate on and ant glitch issues should go away.

You did not get a lemon and the TA05 is a huge leap higher in quality, design and adjustability than a TT01. You will be happy with the car once you get it toghether and run it a few times and adjust the suspension to your driving style.
Thanks Kevin!

I hope that my kit is packed with correct parts and i can build it following the linstructions(again what redbones wrote what he had to do).

Im off to the track now with tt.
RangerWalker is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.