Steevo

Hi All.
I just picked up a very good deal on a brand new Tamiya TB Evo II kit and I have a few questions for those familiar with the car.

Firstly, It says to glue in the splined piece for the rear ball diff with rubber cement. From what I can see this piece would have a really hard, if not impossibe, time working its way out because of the diff housing.
Is this necessary or can it be fitted without glue???

Next, the drive shaft seemed to move a little bit too much front to rear and the spur gear consequently seemed sloppy on the shaft and wobbled slightly. I put a shim (plastic washer) on the shaft just between the spur and the rear diff and the slop has been taken up but the spur seems slightly loose....
Is this normal???

Finally can someone please tell me what the stock rear toe in is on the car as i don't have a set up board or guages to measure.

Thank you for your help in advance

Steevo

Steevo

Anyone pleeeeease!!!!
I don't want to go any further with the build until I clear up these few questions

Thanks
Steevo

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Hey Steevo!! fellow E2 owner to the rescue!! the rubber cement is not necessary. as you can see...they fall out rather easily when not attached to the shafts so I think the cement was Tamiya's way of helping them stay in during rebuilds or repairs. It also helps take up some of the slop. They don't fit real snug,do they?
The dreaded spur gear play......yep ,it's normal! shimming will help but the back and forth movement is normal. I've noticed that spur/pinion spacing is a bit critical,but otherwise not an issue. If the spacing is to loose or to tight,spur wear is excessive.
Rear toe in as checked on my integy setup is 1.5 degrees.
Hope this helps. The EVO 2 has treated me well and has proven to be extremely strong and reliable. Good Luck

Steevo

Thanks for the help.
I am know having problems getting the steering rod connecting to the servo saver to clear the propeller shaft...
I bought the aluminium steering set and when everything is fitted the arm rests on the shaft and doesn't even look like clearing.
I have thought of putting spacers in but this does not seem right. If the standard plastic set is supposed to work then why wont these
This is the last part of the build and it has got me stuffed!!!!

Steevo

rough512

iTrader: (12)

Hi Steevo,

How's your 03?

I too am using an EVO2 now. Yes, the spur gear sits loosely and yes, you can install that outdrive without the rubber cement. Mine's not glued right now but I'm thinking of smearing on some rubber cement on my next rebuild. It might help keeping out the dust plus the constant rubbing against the spline might wear the splines out eventually.

It's a great car. The say its porky but for a club racer like me, its good enough. At least the cost of replacing parts is low. (Read no stripped gears so far )

The soft red springs is good enough for our local bumpy track here. I replaced the aluminum steering bell crank with the plastic one to reduce weight. The aluminum center post and tunnel brace near the front gear housing, also had to go. Also removed the sway bars.

I installed rear 04 arms in the rear so the Universal Shaft is straight relative to the outdrive. This reduces wear on the outdrive plus improves transmission efficiency some.

On the front end, I slid the arm forward and added spacers behind, also to improve efficiency.

Steevo

Hi Rough512,
The 03 has been retired a while ago. While you are there can you let me know if you had any problem with the steering rod coming from the servo. Mine seems to hit the prop shaft and won't throw the full arc. I think i need to shim the ball so it sits up a bit so I get the clearance I need. What are your experiences please..

Steevo

rough512

iTrader: (12)

steeve,


Install a spacer between the ball stud and steering arm. This should help in elevating the rod going to the servo saver.

In my car, the ball studs were attached using a long threaded grub screws (similar to the droop screws). Next, place a 1mm alum spacer. then thread in the ball studs (the one with the threaded holes in them) .

sorry, my post can be confusing. it goes like this, from the top...

Steering rod from the servo saver
Ball stud
spacer
steering arm
spacer
ball stud
rod linking the two arms together.

Steevo

Thanks rough,
This is how I had it set up originally but the ball on the serbo was positioned much higher than where it connected to the bell crank on the other side. From what I can see the only way I am going to get the clearance I need is to have them at the same height which will mean Installing about 4 spacers under the ball on the bell crank... If this makes any sence???
I have so far installed three spacers but the rod still just touches the shaft at full lock. One more should clear it...I think this is weird though. It does not seem right. My set up is the same as yours with the grub type screws for the balls....
Any way thanks for your help

Steevo

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Steevo,
I'd really like to better understand this problem and see how you fix it. do you guy's mind if we make any future entries on the existing EVO2 thread?? I'll meet you guy's there. Thanks

DanDan

iTrader: (6)

Hi hi,
I did own an Evo-II and hear are some of my solution.

Glue the cup joint to the diff if you running with Mod motor, otherwise they will get loosen and worst as the they will break on the housing.

Free play on drive shaft is normal, I did shims them up before and if you have a big crash like that, you will end up with broken gear. The free play is for the impact.

Get the TA-04 SS suspension arms, 4-degree caster block, and 2 degree rear toe hub. That will allow you to use longer upper link and more settings. You can't really use the normal TA-04 arms as that will give you crazy long wheelbase (27Xmm). The TA-04 SS (shorten version) will remain the wheelbase and allow you to have 04 or 414 suspension geometry.

Steevo

Thanks for the advice.
I put one thin shim on the shaft to take out some of the play. It still has a small amount of play but not too much. I'll see how it goes.

Steevo