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-   -   Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3! (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/161258-lets-build-schumacher-mi3.html)

AdrianM 04-30-2007 01:17 PM

Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!
 
1 Attachment(s)
The Mi3 release is days away so we wanted to put together an on line build guide to fill in some details about how our factory drivers assemble their cars.

While the manual alone will guide you through the building process perfectly this build guide expands on certain areas and will allow you to tap into knowledge and experiece our factory driver have gained over the years of running Schumacher sedans.

syndr0me 04-30-2007 01:23 PM

The lotion is totally missing from that picture.

Edit: Also, congrats, I can't wait to see Darkseid and Crash show up with their Mi3's in a few weeks.

Marcos.J 04-30-2007 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by AdrianM
The Mi3 release is days away so we wanted to put together an on line build guide to fill in some details about how our factory drivers assemble their cars.

While the manual alone will guide you through the building process perfectly this build guide expands on certain areas and will allow you to tap into knowledge and experiece our factory driver have gained over the years of running Schumacher sedans.

I think Ill have you build mine :D

AdrianM 04-30-2007 01:39 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Rear Diff

The Mi3 assembly starts off with building the rear diff. As old pan car racers we really like to spend time properly assembling the diff and do a few additional steps that really enhance the smoothness and durability of the rear diff.

In addition to the tools and items called for in the assembly manual you will need:

Electric motor cleaner spray
Paper towels
600 grit wet/dry sand paper

Before starting verify that you have all the necessary parts.

Even though we are in on the development process we were very pleasantly surprised to find than the Mi3 comes standard with Ceramic diff balls!

The only factory assembled part is the thrust bearing and female outdrive. The thrust bearing is a high quality japanese tungsten carbide unit and is packed with black molybdium disulfide grease from the factory so there is no need to disassemble it.

dawgmeat 04-30-2007 01:51 PM

you guys are steppin' your games up

John Pape 04-30-2007 01:54 PM

Whats the 600 grit paper for then?

Marcos.J 04-30-2007 01:56 PM


Originally Posted by John Pape
Whats the 600 grit paper for then?

for the diff rings

AdrianM 04-30-2007 02:02 PM

2 Attachment(s)
One of the most important factors in building a good diff is keeping everything clean. Before you start wash you hands to reduce the natural oils on your fingers.

Carefully place the diff balls on a paper towel and spray some more spray onto them. Take it easy unless you want to launch the balls all over you shop.

Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and spray some motor spray onto it. place a diff ring on the wet area and with a curcular motion sand the ring. If the motor spray dries out spray some more on to the ring and paper. The motor spray will clear away the steel removed by the sand paper. You want to have a consistant pattern of scoring across the full face of the diff ring. if you see any high or low spots in the area where the diff will run keep sanding. Sand both sides of both rings.

Clean the rings with motor spray to remove any residue and set them aside.

Clean the diff pulley with motor spray.

The main thing to remember is you want all the diff balls, rings and pulley to be clean and oil free.

turbodog 04-30-2007 02:37 PM


Originally Posted by Marcos.J
I think Ill have you build mine :D

And on the clock at Schumacher. :D

alb 04-30-2007 02:41 PM


Originally Posted by AdrianM
Take it easy unless you want to launch the balls all over you shop.

Obviously thinking of Goetz :blush:

Marcos.J 04-30-2007 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by turbodog
And on the clock at Schumacher. :D

i wont tell :D

turbodog 04-30-2007 02:50 PM

Special note, during assembly, bag 1, bag 2, etc. doesn't mean you'll assemble by bag 1, bag 2, etc. :eek: :lol:

RussB 04-30-2007 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by AdrianM
Take it easy unless you want to launch the balls all over you shop.

looks like you already lost one :lol: 12 in the first pic, 11 in the second.

TryHard 04-30-2007 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by RussB
looks like you already lost one :lol: 12 in the first pic, 11 in the second.

Count again boss... I get 11 in both :confused:

AdrianM 04-30-2007 03:03 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Every racer has their own ideas about how much silicone diff grease is the correct amount to apply to the diffs. Before I say what I like to do lets cover what the diff grease does in the diff.

The diff grease is a damping fluid and lubricates the balls as they run in the diff pulley. The diff grease contributes to the limited slipped effect on a ball diff by damping (slowing down) the movements of all the components in the diff. The caused torque to contiute to be sen to a loaded wheels even if the wheel on the opposite side lifts off the ground or otherwise looses traction.

The diff grease also lubricates the ball and diff rings in order to keep them running cool and reducing wear. This is really important and is one of the reason why we use special silicone based greases on our diffs.

Silicone diff grease has a special property. It will lubricate between the ball and the pulley but offers near zero lubication between the rings and the balls. This is critical to the operation of the diff. This allows us to set the diff loose with zero slip between the rings and balls.

Over the years we have tried all kinds of diff lubes and I can say with all honesty nothing works as good as Schumacher diff grease. AE Stealth lube gets too thin and gets slung away to easily. Joel Johnson Lube is too thick when its cool but thins dramatically when it is worked hard. Schumancer Diff grease stays put and is consistant.

The Mi3 comes with a small bag of grease. Work the grease inot a corner of the bag and snip the corner so when you squeeze it you get a 1mm stream of grease. Apply a ring of grease to the diff ring and smear it flat with a clean finger tip.

Assemble the rest of the diff as directed.

Note that after setting the diff tenstion you must use a 2mm and 1.5mm wrench to tighten the locking setscrew against the end of the diff setting screw. If you don't do this the diff will come loose. If you do this right the diff will NEVER come loose. This is way better than relying locktite, a lock nut or a nylon insert.

Finally, many team drivers choose to omit the thinnest belt spacer on the rear pulley. The belt will track true without the spacer and this small change can make your drive train spin more freely.


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