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Old 05-05-2007, 11:47 AM   #106
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I don't think they're really any bigger than any of the other cars out there right now.
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Old 05-05-2007, 12:16 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyB
Those bulkheads look hudge
Yeah, so....as long as they don't look HUGE
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:59 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyB
Those bulkheads look hudge
The are smaller in over all size than the bulk heads on a RDX or T2
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Old 05-05-2007, 06:11 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Yeah, so....as long as they don't look HUGE
hudge is how its said in jersey ala trump.
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:55 AM   #110
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Adrian,

Do you know if the Orion 4800 LiPo will fit with out any problems?

Thanks for all the great info, can't wait to get mine.

Later,
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:21 AM   #111
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hey adrian...what's coming up next in this thread??
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:58 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Adrian,

Do you know if the Orion 4800 LiPo will fit with out any problems?

Thanks for all the great info, can't wait to get mine.

Later,
They should fit but I haven't tried personally since they are not legal for racing in my area.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:00 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-car-net
hey adrian...what's coming up next in this thread??
Diff shimming and installation.
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:48 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Adrian,

Do you know if the Orion 4800 LiPo will fit with out any problems?

Thanks for all the great info, can't wait to get mine.

Later,
From what I've heard, in two different racer's test, it doesn't. They had the same problem. A problem up front with the steering arm, then if you correct that, a problem at the rear with the battery port. I'm hoping to hear of an official test from someone with the company, just to make sure that this info is correct. I just find it hard to believe that they could have the pack in mind when designing battery area for the car, and still not have it fit properly.

There has been a solution discussed on the Schumacher website forums, but it would require moving the steerig assembly to one of the optional holes, and a different ackerman arm.

You know all I run is Lipo, so I'm going to be on this issue like a blood hound! But I still think the Orion 3200 should fit with no issues(hopefully someone will test this and let us know for sure).

Adrian says he'll test things out, so we'll see what he comes back with.
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:30 PM   #115
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Fitting the Orion 4800 Lipo. If you run this battery you will need to run the optional shorter center track rod and run the steering post one hole futher forward. Its no problem after that change.

The team is 50/50 split on which center track rod they like best the stock or the next shorter. PW like the next shorter one from kit standard. These center track rods will be available either at the same time as the kit or a week later.
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Old 05-07-2007, 05:21 AM   #116
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Adrian, thanks for doing this post. Though im sure people will wonder why this isn't in the manual it is simple - for your average layman they will likely want to build just as per the instructions. As with any manufacturer there is a 'standard' manual and then the added tweeks the team do that they then share within the team and possibly on-line. Most of what you have written about the team here in the UK have shared with everyone already that I know of. They are really helpful so all this knowledge comes through to racers anyway.

Hopefully i'll have my Mi3 soon and im looking forward to building it up over a few nights.

If the team finds anything more then please do post it, im sure it would filter through anyway but even still it would be good to place on such a public forum as well.

Keep up the good work
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:45 PM   #117
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When installing the spool and diffs we find running just one shim is all that is necessary. We run the shim on the left side on the rear diff and on the right side on the front spool.
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:53 PM   #118
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Take you time on the suspension. We intentionally mold the arms so they are a little tight on the pins. For novices that rarely replace parts this makes the parts last longer and makes the car feel solid.

Higher level drivers can take a few minutes to fit the parts so they are free and have no play. I have a 1/8" reamer for the hinge pins. Just a turn or two and everything is perfect. Note that I only do this to the arms. I do not ream the front yoke (c-hub) or rear hub carrier. You want the pins to pivot in the arms not in the hubs.

The Kwik Klips use to set the wheel base can be a tight fit. I sanded one on each corner with some 400 grit paper to make them a perfect fit.

When you are all done you wan the suspension to drop freely under it own weight with no tight spots.
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Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!-build-pic-22.jpg  
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Old 05-07-2007, 04:14 PM   #119
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When you get to the front hubs pre thread the king pins. If you do this out of the yoke the pins will self center and end up perfectly aligned.

Take the yoke and using a tapered reamer ream the king pin bore so its counter bored for ~1/3 of ot depth. Do the same from below on the lower king pin hole for ~1/3 of it depth. Our yokes are beefy and are very strong compared to other cars. The material you remove will have no effect on durability but it will make the front hub turn very freely.

When you have the front end together each hub should turn freely with no tightening or binding at full lock in either direction.

In the last pic some of you will notice I secure my outer hinge pins with a pinion setscrew. PW runs his car stock with e-clips. I like the setscrews. Its a personal prefrence on my part.

If you want to use set screws carefully drill a 2.5mm hole from the bottom up on the front yokes and rear hubs. Grind a corresponding flat on the hinge pin. When you tighten up the assembly just snug them up so the pin is secure. You can strip them out if you over do it. But...if you do strip out the hole you still have e-clips
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Old 05-07-2007, 06:18 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Thats about it for the shocks....

I have to say one thing though. The Schumacher Race Shocks are the finest dampers on earth. The are better than Tamiya TRF and Xray shocks.

Nothing comes close to being as smooth or lasting as long as Schumacher Race Shocks.
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