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Old 05-02-2007, 02:05 PM   #61
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Shocks

Shocks are one of the most important parts of a touring car. A set of consistant, well built shocks gives a racer one less thing to worry about.

Before we got into building the shock I want to give you some tips about shocks in general.

1. All shocks will degrade in performance with use. O-rings swell and get dirt embeded in them. The causes static friction (Stiction) than makes shocks resist movement.

2. All shocks lose rebound over time. All current cars use low tension orings and they can weep tiny amounts of oil over time.

3. In crashes oil can burp past the seals and you can lose all rebound instantly. This often happens to one shock and make the car feel like its tweaked even though its fine on a tweak station.

They the solution to all of this is to check them regularly for air in the shock, sticky or dirty seals, rebound etc.

There are a few trick parts that many pro drivers use to optimize their shocks.

1. Much More or Hybrid Racing soft o-rings: They are as soft as bubble gum and they swell faster than stock o-rings but they are super slick and smooth. They can make you shocks feel like you are running 5wt lighter oil in them.

2. Much More bladder rebound foams: They come in a set of diffrent volumes and densities to you can precisely tune the amount and speed of rebound you get.

The new Mi3 shocks build with no rebound at all and all our setups take this into account so build them stock at first and add rebound later if you want to try it.

The first step where is devate from the assembly manual is on the shock pistons. The pistons fit freely just between the e-clips on the shock shaft. This is fine when they are new but after a few weeks of the piston knocking back and forth between the e-clips it can wear. You will notice this when you try to quickly compress the release the suspension. You will get a odd knocking feel from the shock.

There are 2 possible solutions and both work equally well:

1. Put one .007" motor shim on top of the the lower e-clip before you put the piston on. These shims are hard to come by now so option 2 is easier.

2. Put a tiny drop of CA on a 1.5mm wrench and use it to apply the CA to the top and bottom e-clips of an assembled shock shaft.

The CA will make the fit tight but if you need ti take the assembly apart it comes apart easily. The CA will not stick to the material the piston is made from. Dont use too much CA as you do not want it to run into the piston holes.
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Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!-build-pic-11.jpg   Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!-build-pic-12.jpg   Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!-build-pic-13.jpg  
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:15 PM   #62
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Put 2 drops of shock oil into the bottom of the shock (the seal housing) before putting each of the parts that go into the housing (the o-ring, spacer and end cap bushing).

This is done to fill any voids so there is no air at all in the shock seal housing. You can build it like the instructions say and the shock will be good but in the first few weeks you will find that your shocks have air in them frequently. This air is from bubbles that were trapped in the seal housing and worked their way out.
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:19 PM   #63
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adrian...do you mean these o rings that we should use...
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:20 PM   #64
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Build the rest of the shocks as instructed.

When you get to filling the shocks use really take your time and make sure there are no air bubbles in them before you seal them up. You are not doing yourself an favors by hurrying here.

Isn't the P-Dub car stand cool?
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:31 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-car-net
adrian...do you mean these o rings that we should use...
Yes, they are very good. Much More also makes some that are the same.

Our team drivers replace their o-rings before every major race they attend. Thats about 6 times a year. The o-rings (all types of o-rings and brands of cars) swell from exposure to shock oil. The can literally double in size over a couple months.

If you haven't rebuilt you shocks recently check your o-rings you will be surprised by what you find.
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:33 PM   #66
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is it correct that the o rings from much more are green?

thanks a lot for the info!
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:42 PM   #67
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Thats about it for the shocks....

I have to say one thing though. The Schumacher Race Shocks are the finest dampers on earth. The are better than Tamiya TRF and Xray shocks.

Nothing comes close to being as smooth or lasting as long as Schumacher Race Shocks.

We use a special Nickel teflon coating on our shock bodies that pretty much makes them impervious to wear. That means you will never wear through the coating and end up with grey metal flake shock oil.

The shock shafts are Ti-Nitride coated spring steel.

The pistons and shock bushings are machined aceytal engineering plastic so they all fit perfectly.

Even the bleed ports on the shock caps are specifically placed to line up with where the bladder and shock body line up.

These are the best shocks in the world
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:43 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-car-net
is it correct that the o rings from much more are green?

thanks a lot for the info!
I can't remember what color that are. They may offer diffrent durometers. I would pick the softest if there is a choice.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:27 PM   #69
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Hi, great info so far.

Could you please explain the best ways of filling the shocks with oil to get rebound etc. as doing the shocks is the worst possible job on any RC vehicle and I find it a total nightmare!

Also what is the effect/advantage of rebound.

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Old 05-02-2007, 03:33 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-car-net
is it correct that the o rings from much more are green?

thanks a lot for the info!
here you go: http://www.much-more.co.jp/imgs/MK-P40.jpg

MuchMore MK-P30 (30 degrees)
MuchMore MK-P40 (40 degrees)

HTH
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:07 PM   #71
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This may be a stupid question, but on the MMR O rings and Diaphram you were saying the Team Drivers use, what is the Deg rating for? I am assuming it is size, but I am unsure.
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:28 PM   #72
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Great info again Adrian. That thing about putting oil into the seal housing along with the pieces was totally new for me. I'd never heard that before but it makes so much sense.

Looking forward to the next entry!
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:30 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Isn't the P-Dub car stand cool?
Yeah, but I still like the Schumacher Pit Dude stand!
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:59 PM   #74
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Skiddins - The new Mi3 shocks are pretty fool proof. All 4 come out right every time.

After assembling the shock and making sure there is no air under the piston fill the shock until the oil it level with the top of the shock body. Place the kit bladder on the shock body and push it down. It will displace some oil. Carefull put the cap over the bladder and shock body and tighten it down. The shock will self bleed through the new side hoen on the cap and you are all set.

Kit standard the shock will have no rebound. If you want rebound place an o ring or two between the bladder and the cap or one of the foam dots from Much More or Tamiya. Right now we are running the car with no rebound and its working well but as with any new car there is still a lot of testing to do.

Big B - Note that we are not using the much more diaphrams (bladders)...just their o-rings. They make a set of foam dots that are used between the bladders and the shock caps to get varying degrees of rebound. This is a new item than we will be testing in the future.

The foam dots are p/n: MK-R07 Shock Pressure Seat Foam Set

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Old 05-02-2007, 08:29 PM   #75
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Adrian,

All props to you. Cool thread. Keep up the good work.

I wish I was getting this kind of support on my current TC of choice.

I know, I know; Switch right?

Any way. Good job...
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