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Old 05-22-2007, 02:32 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The only person I know that built them wrong is Alex Lopez but he went to UM so it figures

A lot of people have built them right. Like I said, take you time and make it look like the overhead shot in the instructions.
good job ALO lol
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Old 05-22-2007, 02:40 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
now thats funny
At least he's not a Buckeye!
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Old 05-22-2007, 02:52 PM   #243
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Yoo Adrian... Man I had to do that..LMAO Dont forget race is upcoming...
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:22 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
At least he's not a Buckeye!
buckeye?? you mean OU SOONERS
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:24 PM   #245
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Originally Posted by John Tag
Yoo Adrian... Man I had to do that..LMAO Dont forget race is upcoming...
Np...The tires should get here this week.
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:25 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Np...The tires should get here this week.
Adrian you got pm
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Old 05-22-2007, 04:30 PM   #247
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Huh? Maybe I'm not explaining my self correctly...I mean parts U3130 and U3129. I refer to both as one unit. There are 4 sets of these for the front suspension. and 4 for the rear. If you build the rear U3130's and 3129's just like the front ones, it will be the same as the front ones. There's 18.5mm between the right and left bulkheads in the front. Same in the rear. There are no axles barely hanging out or wider track measurements- the proof is in the front side susp. block set up!! The only difference is that the front uses .5 or 1mm shim/spacer between the bulkheads and suspension blocks, while the rear uses 2mm shim. That's just a base and gives the rear a bit wider track all around than the front, which is normal and what the manual suggests anyways. All you need to do then is use the rearmost suspension U3130 & U3129's and add a 2mm and a 1mm shim to R and L sides, and you should have 2mm rear toe....With this set up the car inst too wide at the rear at all, and the drive shafts are not almost falling out of the outdrives- it looks exactly the same as before, in fact. Just try it and see...
Just finished my Mi3- intersting way to put the suspension holders...I have tried it and it makes more sense to me. I'll try it out and see how it behaves...
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Old 05-22-2007, 04:33 PM   #248
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Adrian you got pm
he's not anwering, he's busy working on his Mi3 pan car.. .
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Old 05-22-2007, 05:48 PM   #249
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Originally Posted by RCLocos
Just finished my Mi3- intersting way to put the suspension holders...I have tried it and it makes more sense to me. I'll try it out and see how it behaves...
Please note that Schumacher does not recommend mounting the rear suspension this way. In testing we found yyhayyim's way of mounting the suspesnion weaker and more likely to bend the moutning screws that hold the suspension to the bulkhead.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:32 PM   #250
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Another PM Adrian
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:08 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCLocos
he's not anwering, he's busy working on his Mi3 pan car.. .
he actually answer my pm within 2 minutes
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:11 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Please note that Schumacher does not recommend mounting the rear suspension this way. In testing we found yyhayyim's way of mounting the suspesnion weaker and more likely to bend the moutning screws that hold the suspension to the bulkhead.
well i guess he thinks he knows more than the designers i built mine as the instructions and it wasnt complicated at all,even a caveman can do it
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:56 PM   #253
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So, is Anastasia doing any construction workshops over here ?

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Old 06-16-2007, 12:23 AM   #254
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Fitting the Orion 4800 Lipo. If you run this battery you will need to run the optional shorter center track rod and run the steering post one hole futher forward. Its no problem after that change.

The team is 50/50 split on which center track rod they like best the stock or the next shorter. PW like the next shorter one from kit standard. These center track rods will be available either at the same time as the kit or a week later.
TTT for a great thread

I did some testing earlier this week with a 4800. I have the standard track rod installed and unaltered it does hit the batery. I realize I am not a pro and this change may alter the handling of the car some, but if you raise the lower CF piece that the bellcrank attaches to using a 2 mm shim betwen it and the bulkhead on either side the bellcrank then clears the battery. Of course this raises the tie rods also altering the bumpsteer and ackerman somewhat, but it seems you could just shim the ball studs down some to accomodate the change. As far as the port at the rear, it is certainly a tight fit, but it does fit. My wife has the camera or I'd post the pics I took, but if you shrink wrap around the bullet connecter coming from your ESC and carefully allign the battery when desgning your instalation method (tape alone won't keep the battery in place) you should have no problems. I used the same method I used to secure the 4800 in my RDX and secured battery slot shaped "discs" (made of lexan in this case)to the bottom of the battery using strong servo tape. I used only 2 (one in the front and one in the rear) and the battery was plenty sturdy for 4 or so runs on a VERY dusty and loose rubber tire carpet track with me hitting the boards drifting out wide ALOT. Keep in mind when placing the battery that the pinion/motor shaft will tend to shove out towards the battery under acceleration so that that into consideration. Also be sure to make the center portion of your disc narrow enough that it will slide beteen the narrow part of the slot when removing the battery. If you do not there will not be enough clearance to 1st lift the battery up and then slide it out. You have to angle it out and the inner portion has to slide between the narrow section of the slot. A picture says a thousand words and Ill get them up after my wife comes back Sun.
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:02 AM   #255
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So, is Anastasia doing any construction workshops over here ?

Jacko


anastasia???
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