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Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!

Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!

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Old 05-22-2007, 08:03 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by wyd
Pier pressure will get the best of you. I feel like you will be changing it before you run your first pack thru the car.
you are correct, i just changed it
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
you are correct, i just changed it
Oh what pressure. I looked at the stock servo saver and said to myself "WTF" I knew right then that it wasn't going on my car. I will put on a normal servo saver if I find I'm having problems.
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by wyd
Oh what pressure. I looked at the stock servo saver and said to myself "WTF" I knew right then that it wasn't going on my car. I will put on a normal servo saver if I find I'm having problems.
i said the same thing wonder why it couldnt be a standard servo saver
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:39 AM
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Talking Rear Suspension Blocks

AdrianM/PW: The instructions say to build the 2 rearmost rear suspension blocks differently than the other 2 rear blocks and the 4 front ones. Well, its abit confusing at first, and could lead to some mistakes on the build by having the way the instructions say. I have tried the following:check out how the 4 front suspension blocks are set up, upper and lower. This give you 0 deg inboard toe. Just do the same for the rear and you'll have 0 deg rear toe, just like the front. All you need to do is adjust the rearmost blocks of the rear suspension. Then all 4 rear should be the same as the 4 front ones for 0 deg inboard toe in front and rear. Then add shims to the rearmost rear suspension blocks to get the toe you need. Its really the same thing. I have tried both ways and see do difference in toe. Its not wider at all, but it does give you that even look all around and much easier to set up and harder to get mixed up. The question is why does Schumacher instructions have us set them up as in the instructions--there must be some reason...anyways, you can try this and try and make your observations...seems to work fine and looks even better. That's how it is on Xray T2's also, and it works OK.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:15 AM
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The instructions are correct.

If you do the front the same as the rear the car will be too wide and the drive shafts are almost falling out of the outdrives. The other way around the car will be super narrow and the drive shafts will bottom out in the outdrives...and you will need to add a ton of shims to get the right width and toe in.

Just take you time and think about what you are doing. There is only one right way for it to go together.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
The instructions are correct.

If you do the front the same as the rear the car will be too wide and the drive shafts are almost falling out of the outdrives. The other way around the car will be super narrow and the drive shafts will bottom out in the outdrives...and you will need to add a ton of shims to get the right width and toe in.

Just take you time and think about what you are doing. There is only one right way for it to go together.
Huh? Maybe I'm not explaining my self correctly...I mean parts U3130 and U3129. I refer to both as one unit. There are 4 sets of these for the front suspension. and 4 for the rear. If you build the rear U3130's and 3129's just like the front ones, it will be the same as the front ones. There's 18.5mm between the right and left bulkheads in the front. Same in the rear. There are no axles barely hanging out or wider track measurements- the proof is in the front side susp. block set up!! The only difference is that the front uses .5 or 1mm shim/spacer between the bulkheads and suspension blocks, while the rear uses 2mm shim. That's just a base and gives the rear a bit wider track all around than the front, which is normal and what the manual suggests anyways. All you need to do then is use the rearmost suspension U3130 & U3129's and add a 2mm and a 1mm shim to R and L sides, and you should have 2mm rear toe....With this set up the car inst too wide at the rear at all, and the drive shafts are not almost falling out of the outdrives- it looks exactly the same as before, in fact. Just try it and see...

Last edited by yyhayyim; 05-22-2007 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Huh? Maybe I'm not explaining my self correctly...I mean parts U3130 and U3129. I refer to both as one unit. There are 4 sets of these for the front suspension. and 4 for the rear. If you build the rear U3130's and 3129's just like the front ones, it will be the same. The only difference is that the front uses .5 or 1mm shim/spacer between the bulkheads and suspension blocks, while the rear uses 2mm shim as a base. This gives the rear abit wider track all around than the front, which is normal and what the manual suggests anyways. All you need to do then is use the rearmost suspension U3130 & U3129's and add a 2mm and a 1mm shim to R and L sides, and you should have 2mm rear toe....With this set up the car inst too wide at the rear at all, and the drive shafts are not almost falling out of the outdrives- it looks exactly the same as before, in fact. Just try it and see...
jeez how hard are the instructions in only took me like 10 minutes to get the rear built!
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
jeez how hard are the instructions in only took me like 10 minutes to get the rear built!
Sorry MJ It shouldnt take 10 min to figure out how to put those 2 sets of U3129 and 3130 blocks together. Some have actually built them wrong, and have gotten some really wide track and axles not fitting right...maybe this would help...sorry to be such a pest, but I actually have tried it and it seems to be working fine- I dont have axles off or wierd track width. It looks normal, and its easier to get right the first time, everytime...

Has the boss gotten home yet?
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Sorry MJ It shouldnt take 10 min to figure out how to put those 2 sets of U3129 and 3130 blocks together. Some have actually built them wrong, and have gotten some really wide track and axles not fitting right...maybe this would help...sorry to be such a pest, but I actually have tried it and it seems to be working fine- I dont have axles off or wierd track width. It looks normal, and its easier to get right the first time, everytime...

Has the boss gotten home yet?
what ever works for you no the boss is not home yet
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:36 AM
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Do the pre-assembled CVD's need to be re-tightened and re-lock-tightened before putting them in, or the fatory pre-assembly quality is good enough? i just dont want them to fall apart on my first run...looking for those tiny pins at the track could be a sad and ugly sight...especially with my vision :
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:44 AM
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Just to be safe i'd take them apart an thread lock them for peace of mind

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Old 05-22-2007, 11:48 AM
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yyhayyim - I understand what you are saying. I am just telling you that we have tried what you are doing and in testing have proven that that is not the ideal way of doing it.

Your way you have to add a lot of shims in the rear to get the right amount of toe in. This makes it more likely that in a crash you will bend the screw that goes into the bulkhead. The way its done in the assembly instrucutions all you need is a .5mm or 1mm shim depending on how much toe-in you want. This way you have far less extended mount screw and the assembly is MUCH stronger.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
It shouldnt take 10 min to figure out how to put those 2 sets of U3129 and 3130 blocks together. Some have actually built them wrong, and have gotten some really wide track and axles not fitting right...
The only person I know that built them wrong is Alex Lopez but he went to UM so it figures

A lot of people have built them right. Like I said, take you time and make it look like the overhead shot in the instructions.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
yyhayyim - I understand what you are saying. I am just telling you that we have tried what you are doing and in testing have proven that that is not the ideal way of doing it.

Your way you have to add a lot of shims in the rear to get the right amount of toe in. This makes it more likely that in a crash you will bend the screw that goes into the bulkhead. The way its done in the assembly instrucutions all you need is a .5mm or 1mm shim depending on how much toe-in you want. This way you have far less extended mount screw and the assembly is MUCH stronger.
Ok. thanks for the input Adrian and sorry for being so pesky about this...I just wanted to hear if it had actually been tested and what the results were as I was intreaged to find out why the instructions have it that way...now I know...thanks again Adrian
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Old 05-22-2007, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
but he went to UM so it figures

.
now thats funny
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