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Old 04-22-2007, 11:06 PM   #31
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Whats wrong with PVC pipe??

Most all the tracks around here use it, it can be bent and curved into many shapes with a propane torch. Taken down and stored away with just a little more effort.

Or why not resilant channel steel studs (the steel studs shaped like a "V" with tails on the ends)/Or 6" track studs? They would work well too
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Old 04-23-2007, 09:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Yup... why is it extruded? Why not injection? Do we need bulletproof rails?

I know I'm making a lot of enemies here in this thread; bear with me, I'm not here to be mean, I just want to discuss this at length.

To the person who told me about the fact that we are spending thousands on TCs: I reciprocate my question. Are our TCs really worth that much? Do we really need $175 tire warmers? Does KO Propo's $100 servos cost even $70 to make? Do our TCs actually cost $350 to make?
Since you asked, producing product for retail and setting prices is a difficult task. Other companies that I worked for (non-rc) set the price target for products that we developed at 40% of the final market price. This gave our re-sellers and us as a company the remaining 60% for profit. Most of the sales were direct to customer. It was also a much different industry, as the equipment also required a sales person to fly in and install...

I am sure that the hobby industry is also pretty simular with price mark-ups. Keep in mind the costs that these companies have to re-coup with each mold made to produce parts ($15k+) and the parts bagging, which with RC runs being much smaller, is more than likely not automated.. Labor is also more expensive.

For most kits sold today to be priced pretty close to what they were over 15 years ago (my gold pan RC10 with bearings cost me $235 new), and the more premium chassis priced at their current price level, I think we are doing quite well.
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:06 PM   #33
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thanx for the input guys. i like the pvc and downspout ideas the only thing is how do we keep it from moving on a parking lot surface?
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Old 04-23-2007, 05:03 PM   #34
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Old window weights, sandbags, bricks/cinderblocks.... all stratigically located.
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Old 04-23-2007, 06:00 PM   #35
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..timmay, exactly...but one of the things I like about the downspout is that unlike actual rain gutter and road roads, it doesn't seem to move quite as bad if the joining piece is at least 1 ft. long, sliding 6 inches into each side...and fastened w/ screws.

On CARPET these work GREAT with velcro on the bottom...and just stick them to the carpet.

Here's a picture of the downspout type material in use on Carpet...

STOCKTON CARPET TRACK IMAGE

Using it on asphalt is just about as easy...
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Old 10-31-2007, 01:57 PM   #36
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Default Hyper Hobbies is back!

I know some of you are not fans of the RoadRail system but for my race these are the best solution since they take so little room to store and transport. So for those of us who do like them and anyone interested...I recieved an e-mail from Hyper Hobbies yesterday! And they are back in business! Now I can get the replacement parts we need badly. After 3+ years of racing (maybe 4+, can't remember) our track is pretty beat up.
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Old 10-31-2007, 05:27 PM   #37
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PVC pipes are bad for 1/12 cars!!!
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Old 10-31-2007, 05:46 PM   #38
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I went to two race series here in the UK last winter, one used the PCV stuff almost exactly like the downpipe pictured in the post above, the other runs RoadRails.

While the Downpipe racing is on a slightly smaller area with slightly tighter corners etc, there was MUCH less damage to cars at the venue using RoadRails.

If I had to choose, it's a no brainer, RoadRails please!

The problem with any flat sided 'rails' is that if a wheel even faintly brushes it, the rubber tries to 'grip' the sides which in turn tries to make the vehicle steer into it as well as putting a massive strain on the transmission.

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Old 10-31-2007, 06:06 PM   #39
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Well most people have a problem when cars launch over the rails into another lane and I can understand that...but with some care in layout design that can be minimized. I also like the new CRC system but it looks to be better suited to a semi-permanent to permanent track solution. Our track has to be ultra portable as we set up and take down the track every race day in a LHS parking lot. For that nothing beats RoadRails with their ability to stack up into a small storage space.
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:43 PM   #40
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In Florida the sun damages the Road Rails and makes them very brittle over a the course of just a few months. We use 2.5" PVC pipe here and it lasts for years. We either stake it into the asphalt or for those who do not want to poke holes in thier expensive asphalt, back it with cement blocks in areas where cars wont hit them. This is nice because the pipes can move and absorbe crash energy. This equals fewer broken cars.
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:49 PM   #41
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The sun here in Hawaii is pretty intense too...but most of the race we did with our rails was done at night so we didn't have that problem yet. I really don't like using PVC...the underside of the pipe really grabs the front wheel and rips front suspensions apart if the pipes are real secure. I don't have the luxury of dragging around a bunch of cinder blocks or staking into the asphault either.
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:58 PM   #42
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Any fence company can get you pvc 2x4's or 2x3's to use for gaurd rail. My local shop did this and pretty much is identical to what CRC is selling now for gaurdrail. Fence company is way cheaper. My local shop bought the piping needed thru me since I work for a fence company.

If you can get someone to post pics from Hobbytown in Frederick Maryland with the new layout it will have the new piping. They call the it The Colisium and have a thread in The Where to Race thread.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:40 AM   #43
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Roadrails can be very dangerous if not used correctly...

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Old 11-01-2007, 06:41 PM   #44
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ROFLMAO
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Old 11-03-2007, 09:30 PM   #45
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I thought the road rails were pretty good for our club racing track. They do cut down on breakage for the average weekend racer quite a bit (especially in sedan). As others have said, some thought in track design can minimize cars going into other lanes when using Road Rails.

They were also pretty cool when someone (me) would cut the corner of the sweeper a tad to close and launch the pan car into the wall on the opposite side of the lane. I broke a couple t-bars doing that. The launch was cool enough that I didn't really mind the broken t-bar. I would have screwed up just as much or more hitting a solid 2x4.

Anyways, I've got the small track pack from our defunct RC club. Used one winter season so it's in good condition. If anyone wants it I'll sell it for $250 if you can pick it up in the St. Louis area. I paid $590 shipped when new.
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