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Old 04-20-2007, 07:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Right. It's a machined injection mold. Like your Tupperware container. But perhaps higher quality plastic. That's like saying that it is justified to pay $2000 for 300 Tupperware containers.

its a pretty specialized mold for a limited market thats why its more than your typical tupperware that can be sold to millions of house holds but if you can make the road rail system and sell it at the price of tupperware let me know so I can buy some from you.
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Right. It's a machined injection mold. Like your Tupperware container. But perhaps higher quality plastic. That's like saying that it is justified to pay $2000 for 300 Tupperware containers.
It's likely if Tupperware containers were as large as road rails and you bought over 100 f them you would pay that much if not more.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:18 PM   #18
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I don't mean to be contentious, but I find it very strange that you guys are justifying paying $2000 for plastic. I see no reason for you guys to be defending them. They are only making our hobby more expensive.

Honestly, with this attitude, we'll be seeing $500 touring cars in the very near future.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:33 PM   #19
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If you have access to a band or table saw you could pretty much split some 4" pvc pipe in half and make your own... You wouldn't have the little domes but I'm sure there's a solution for that too...
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:39 PM   #20
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2x4's are way cheaper.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:43 PM   #21
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something that makes a great...actually better in my opinion is PVC downspout.

I believe it's 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" square in lengths of 10 foot.

I use 2x4's cut 24 inches long inside each length fastened w/ drywall screws (Screws in from out side of track where possible.

You can do a lot of things w/ these, plus you can cut them to shorter lengths.

Each 10 foot piece runs about 10-12 bucks at places like Home Depot/Lowes and other fine hardware stores.

(Note: there is some rectangle shaped stuff that is not perfectly square...it works, but nearly as nice or clean.)

Here's a link to a MFG.

eGUTTER.com

forgot to note...one of the nice things about this stuff is it's square, so NO LAUNCHING and it's PVC so it's not BRUTAL on the cars when contacted.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:59 PM   #22
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my 2cents
If constructed properly the plastic or wood retainer systems are not hard on cars at all. It's when you have ill constructed turns where the barriers meet that without the right type of deflection barrier (flapper) will be hard on cars. Also the seems where the barriers meet if not secured the right way is also hard on cars.
Road rails however do not offer any protection from cars hopping a barrier this is important especialy with a high speed straightaway. And what I have expierienced is the road rails are brutal on tires IE chunking I would rather bounce of a wall then go over a rail and chunk a tire or two.
Having had both systems I have not noticed a real difference as far as breakage goes but I have noticed a considerable difference in tire chunking so my opinion on road rails is if they are your barrier of choice consider using rubber tires would be one suggestion.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:11 PM   #23
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vinyl fence material is great and comes in 4x4 so you can use a small wood 4x4 to interconnect them.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:12 PM   #24
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Lowe's has some downspout located here thats 2"X3"X10' for only $7.28 each.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:12 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
I don't mean to be contentious, but I find it very strange that you guys are justifying paying $2000 for plastic. I see no reason for you guys to be defending them. They are only making our hobby more expensive.

Honestly, with this attitude, we'll be seeing $500 touring cars in the very near future.
We allready do...$200-$300 for a top end racing TC, $80-$120 for a high end servo, $150 for a speed control, $50-$80 for a motor, $60-$100 for a FM or better reciever. That all adds up over $500 even looking at the low price ranges.

I'm willing to pay a decent price for something that works well as the Roadrails do. It's a well thought out system that doesn't require any special joiner pieces or screws or anything of the such to get lost. For my area land is at a premium so finding a place with a good enough surface to hold a race is at a premium let alone the space it would take to store the equipment. We have a small track and use a Roadrail system that gets setup every race and taken down after every race. It's hugely lighter and vastly more transportable then 2x4s not to mention how much room it would take to store them...and also doesn't have a problem warping like wood does.

I like the square PVC idea...it's a bit less harsh on cars then 2x4s but you still have to have connecting pieces of some sort which are easily lost, something to hold them in place as they are light enough to get easily moved, and a way to transport/store them. Plus at $10 a piece for a 100 piece set your allready at half the cost of a Roadrail system which when properly setup does not need additional fastner pieces or something to hold them in place and transports/stores very easily. Heck I can transport a whole track and all the additional equipment needed to run a race in the back of my Scion tC...there's no way I could do that with any other sytem out there.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmccormick
my 2cents
If constructed properly the plastic or wood retainer systems are not hard on cars at all. It's when you have ill constructed turns where the barriers meet that without the right type of deflection barrier (flapper) will be hard on cars. Also the seems where the barriers meet if not secured the right way is also hard on cars.
Road rails however do not offer any protection from cars hopping a barrier this is important especialy with a high speed straightaway. And what I have expierienced is the road rails are brutal on tires IE chunking I would rather bounce of a wall then go over a rail and chunk a tire or two.
Having had both systems I have not noticed a real difference as far as breakage goes but I have noticed a considerable difference in tire chunking so my opinion on road rails is if they are your barrier of choice consider using rubber tires would be one suggestion.
The same can be said about a Roadrail setup...properly constructed with properly radiused turns the only thing your really going to clip is the dots and with proper planning it's easy to avoid cars hopping a barrier into traffic on the other side of a high speed straight, I have also seen cars jump track like that often with 2x4s as well, the difference being when that happens with a 2x4 the car is usually broken and can't move out of the way of the on coming cars and ends up getting plasted by them.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:36 PM   #27
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with the downspout, I fasten the joint piece permanently into one end of each 10' length. That way I just have to slide them together and use 2 drywall screws to take them apart. I mark the ends I want the fastener to stay in so it's quickly recognized..

they are light weight (A lot lighter than a 2x4) but with the proper length joining piece they don't move too bad. I stack mine in bundles 9 (3 wide x 3 high) and wrap a piece of duct tape around them on each end. Each bundle does a 90 ft. section.

you could also look at PVC Rain Gutter - it's stackable - cheaper, but it's harder to keep from moving unless you make some nice joints and put rubber on the bottom or something to help keep them from moving.

It's harder to launch than roadrails & stacks almost as nice...but not nearly as nice or clean a setup as the downspout.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yub, yub, cmdr!
Right. It's a machined injection mold. Like your Tupperware container. But perhaps higher quality plastic. That's like saying that it is justified to pay $2000 for 300 Tupperware containers.
It's not even injection moulded - it's extruded plastic which is why you see lines running down the length of each piece. An extrusion tool is at least 10 times less expensive than an injection moulded tool. The plastic they use is most likely to be PVC - again hardly an exotic material.
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:19 AM   #29
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like velcro?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SWTour
with the downspout, I fasten the joint piece permanently into one end of each 10' length. That way I just have to slide them together and use 2 drywall screws to take them apart. I mark the ends I want the fastener to stay in so it's quickly recognized..

they are light weight (A lot lighter than a 2x4) but with the proper length joining piece they don't move too bad. I stack mine in bundles 9 (3 wide x 3 high) and wrap a piece of duct tape around them on each end. Each bundle does a 90 ft. section.

you could also look at PVC Rain Gutter - it's stackable - cheaper, but it's harder to keep from moving unless you make some nice joints and put rubber on the bottom or something to help keep them from moving.

It's harder to launch than roadrails & stacks almost as nice...but not nearly as nice or clean a setup as the downspout.
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:23 PM   #30
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Yup... why is it extruded? Why not injection? Do we need bulletproof rails?

I know I'm making a lot of enemies here in this thread; bear with me, I'm not here to be mean, I just want to discuss this at length.

To the person who told me about the fact that we are spending thousands on TCs: I reciprocate my question. Are our TCs really worth that much? Do we really need $175 tire warmers? Does KO Propo's $100 servos cost even $70 to make? Do our TCs actually cost $350 to make?
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