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Old 05-26-2009, 02:28 AM   #1336
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
HI_808- My setup is pretty much stock except i have a spool, front shocks are mounted fully out on the towers, rears are in the middle. droop is about 3 all round springs are stock yellow.

Cribbin- Yes i am lacking corner speed which i found is crucial for 17.5. I have some harder springs that ill put in for some testing.
Stick with the stock front upper shock mounting position (#3) instead of using the furthest out hole. #2 could work too, but most times it results in a very mushy feel. #3 and #4 rear upper shock mounting positions seem to be the most useful. The stock yellow springs should be good. If you use the blue springs, I'd be willing to bet that you'd lose a lot of corner entry speed.

Usually, you have to change your set up pretty drastically when going from a one-way to a spool. With the stock 05MS arms, I changed these things (and maybe more, but I can't remember exactly) from the manual set up to help improve the handling with a spool:

1. Increase forward roll by lowering the front roll center to help the car on corner entry. I changed the front camber link to position #3. The stock setting of a 2 mm spacer under the ball nut with 1 mm of spacing built in to the ball nut for a total of 3 mm was fine.

2. Decrease Ackerman by using position #2 on the steering front upright and add 2-3 mm of spacers under the inner steering tie rod ball connectors. Unlike one-ways, spools don't like a lot of Ackerman.

3. Decrease rear toe by changing the rear rear suspension mount to 1C. You'll lose off-power steering but will gain lots of on-power steering.

4. Alter the wheelbase by adding 0.5 mm in front of the rear suspension arms and removing 0.5 mm from behind of the front suspension arms.

5. Make the rear track width slightly wider than the front track width. This will give the front end of your car more grip. I used the 5 mm hex hubs for the front and rear with 0.5 mm wheel spacers for the rear wheels.

6. You may have to change your rear roll center for ideal camber change and roll characteristics. I recall using 0.5 mm under the rear outer camber links (which is only possible by using different ball connectors than the stock ones) and 3 mm under the rear inner camber links.

7. I didn't do this until recently, but at least with the short lightweight arms, adding a 0.5 mm spacer under the front rear suspension mount for some anti-dive helped to compensate for the loss of off-power steering from reduced rear toe.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:51 AM   #1337
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Thankyou very much HI_808 and also Cribbin for the info, ill take it all down and try it on the weekend, looking forward to trying these out

Cheers
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Old 05-28-2009, 12:23 PM   #1338
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Hi there, i'm almost as new as Fastxxx to this car. have been looking tru the forum. And i was wondering what are the use of the spacers on the upper arms, and the sus. mounts? Just to clear some doubts if u guys could help?

And another thing is i also have the problem of spining my car when i brakes, using a front one way. So i was wondering, other then stiffening up the front to reduce front roll. Is a front ball diff or a spool a better choice ?

Oh ya, and WHat's a Ackerman???

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:01 PM   #1339
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Hi there, i'm almost as new as Fastxxx to this car. have been looking tru the forum. And i was wondering what are the use of the spacers on the upper arms, and the sus. mounts? Just to clear some doubts if u guys could help?

And another thing is i also have the problem of spining my car when i brakes, using a front one way. So i was wondering, other then stiffening up the front to reduce front roll. Is a front ball diff or a spool a better choice ?

Oh ya, and WHat's a Ackerman???

Thanks
all the little spacers alter the roll center of the car, changing the characteristics of the car thru the corner. They are very important.

the reason your car spins under brakes is because of the one way, put it a spool and it will fix the problem, but what motor are you running? Anything less powerful than a 17.5 and you shouldnt need to use brakes anyway.

ackerman is the difference between the angles of the wheels when you turn. Have a look, the inside wheel will be further turned on full lock than the outside wheel.

cheers

ben
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:25 AM   #1340
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Thanks ben, i will try the settings out. atm i running on a yeah racing 9 turn brushless system.

Cheers
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:52 AM   #1341
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Had a GREAT weekend with the MS. Qualified 2nd and finished 2nd in 17.5 Stock in the state titles over here in AUS. Car was great and consistent throughout the whole weekend, ran the same set of tires for 5 qualifiers and 3 finals and the car still ran great an consistent! while others where using up to 3 sets for the weekend. Thankyou to the guys that have helped me setting up my car; HI_808 and Cribbin took your advice on the setup and the car worked great after i made the changes. Will definetly get my setup posted up here in the next day or two.

Cheers
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:11 AM   #1342
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Just want to give everyone a heads up. Tony's Screws now has screw kits for both the standard TA05 and the TA05-MS.

http://www.tonysscrews.com/
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Old 05-31-2009, 05:15 PM   #1343
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Originally Posted by HI_808 View Post
Stick with the stock front upper shock mounting position (#3) instead of using the furthest out hole. #2 could work too, but most times it results in a very mushy feel. #3 and #4 rear upper shock mounting positions seem to be the most useful. The stock yellow springs should be good. If you use the blue springs, I'd be willing to bet that you'd lose a lot of corner entry speed.

Usually, you have to change your set up pretty drastically when going from a one-way to a spool. With the stock 05MS arms, I changed these things (and maybe more, but I can't remember exactly) from the manual set up to help improve the handling with a spool:

1. Increase forward roll by lowering the front roll center to help the car on corner entry. I changed the front camber link to position #3. The stock setting of a 2 mm spacer under the ball nut with 1 mm of spacing built in to the ball nut for a total of 3 mm was fine.

2. Decrease Ackerman by using position #2 on the steering front upright and add 2-3 mm of spacers under the inner steering tie rod ball connectors. Unlike one-ways, spools don't like a lot of Ackerman.

3. Decrease rear toe by changing the rear rear suspension mount to 1C. You'll lose off-power steering but will gain lots of on-power steering.

4. Alter the wheelbase by adding 0.5 mm in front of the rear suspension arms and removing 0.5 mm from behind of the front suspension arms.

5. Make the rear track width slightly wider than the front track width. This will give the front end of your car more grip. I used the 5 mm hex hubs for the front and rear with 0.5 mm wheel spacers for the rear wheels.

6. You may have to change your rear roll center for ideal camber change and roll characteristics. I recall using 0.5 mm under the rear outer camber links (which is only possible by using different ball connectors than the stock ones) and 3 mm under the rear inner camber links.

7. I didn't do this until recently, but at least with the short lightweight arms, adding a 0.5 mm spacer under the front rear suspension mount for some anti-dive helped to compensate for the loss of off-power steering from reduced rear toe.

Hi_808 thanks for posting that info, I have managed to buy a couple of second hand 05MS's. Never liked them but the purchase was cheap. I have always used a TBEvo or 415. Im glad i bought them, they handle so damn nicely. So much easier to setup and drive than my 415. I still have a bit of work to do on them but even the stock setup works well, first race with them i won 2 out of the three races (battery dumped for the second race - first time with lipos). I race one in GT19 with a spool, short arms (stolen from my 415) and 416 hubs and bearings (hate cleaning those tiny 950 bearings).

I just have a question about option 6 in your list - Im still a little foggy when it comes to roll centre adjustments so in my understanding less spacers gives you more roll therefore more camber adjustment? what does increasing the spacers under the upper link on the hub do?.

Do you have any suggestions for racing on astro turf? on wet days our club heads indoors which i hate because my cars are always drifting- anything would be greatly appreciated

Stu
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:06 PM   #1344
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
Had a GREAT weekend with the MS. Qualified 2nd and finished 2nd in 17.5 Stock in the state titles over here in AUS. Car was great and consistent throughout the whole weekend, ran the same set of tires for 5 qualifiers and 3 finals and the car still ran great an consistent! while others where using up to 3 sets for the weekend. Thankyou to the guys that have helped me setting up my car; HI_808 and Cribbin took your advice on the setup and the car worked great after i made the changes. Will definetly get my setup posted up here in the next day or two.

Cheers
Congrats XXXS!

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I just have a question about option 6 in your list - Im still a little foggy when it comes to roll centre adjustments so in my understanding less spacers gives you more roll therefore more camber adjustment? what does increasing the spacers under the upper link on the hub do?.

Do you have any suggestions for racing on astro turf? on wet days our club heads indoors which i hate because my cars are always drifting- anything would be greatly appreciated

Stu
Generally, less spacers under the inner upper camber link means higher roll center, less roll, and more camber change throughout the suspension's travel. More spacers under the rear outer link also gives a higher roll center and more camber change. However, raising the roll center via adding spacers to the rear upper outer camber link increases camber change more drastically than if you were to raise the rear roll center by removing spacers from the inner link.

I think at least ...

And sorry, I don't know anything about racing on turf or carpet.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:07 PM   #1345
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Hi guys, need help here

Wanna check if this Front uprights will fit our MS. They are from 3racing, and for ta05. From wat i know,stock ms uses a tb IV fron upright.
Heres a link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5851872-post41627.html

Cheers.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:21 PM   #1346
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If they use 950(9x5) bearings then they will work on the MS.
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Old 06-02-2009, 03:42 PM   #1347
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You don't wanna use ANY uprights from 3-racing. Even if they fit. The one's that came on my used 415 had the outter edge shaved off by the hex due to poor tolerances. It appears to have allowed the steel hub pin to rub...

Just get the Evo-IV carbon/plastic, pretap the holes with a machine hex-screw, and install it with a 10mm button head screw up into the bottom...

Last edited by 94eg!; 06-02-2009 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:44 PM   #1348
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Been looking at a new TC. How is the TA05MS on asphalt? I will run 13.5 BL. I saw a 416 suspension upgrade. Anyone use this? How does this kit compare with buying a 416WE?
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Old 07-26-2009, 07:37 AM   #1349
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Been looking at a new TC. How is the TA05MS on asphalt? I will run 13.5 BL. I saw a 416 suspension upgrade. Anyone use this? How does this kit compare with buying a 416WE?
Anybody out there !!?? Help cpatel out here...it's one of my cars he's thinking of getting.
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Old 07-26-2009, 01:51 PM   #1350
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Anybody out there !!?? Help cpatel out here...it's one of my cars he's thinking of getting.
Evoracer- that's for the help. Still trying to get more info. How is the chassis flex on the ta05ms? Need some help. Never run tamiya before.
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