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Tamiya TA05MS

Old 01-07-2009, 06:42 PM
  #1186  
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
this greatly depends on what track you are running on and its size etc...

short track might want an FDR around 9
long track might want an FDR around 6

with the included 34T pinion and 105T spur in the TA05MS kit, you'll have an FDR of 6.94
What motor temp range should I be looking for when looking for an ideal FDR? I will run the car on asphalt outdoor track with approximately 100-120ft straight line? I do have infrared temp gun for nitro engine BTW.
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Old 01-07-2009, 06:50 PM
  #1187  
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
Depending on how offset the rims are you might need a larger hex and/or wheel spacers..
Where the shock mounts on the lower arm may be too close to the rim/wheel (i've had this issue running the widest holes for the lower shock mount and 24mm rims/rubber)..
you might get away with using the 2nd widest hole and a 6mm hex with or without a 1mm wheel spacer..
Are these the one?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f20...th=595_744_720
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ta0...th=595_744_720
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:39 AM
  #1188  
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The TA05MS is quite a bit faster than the TA05R. Also, the drivetrain on the MS is more efficient and more reliable.

I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:40 AM
  #1189  
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
What motor temp range should I be looking for when looking for an ideal FDR? I will run the car on asphalt outdoor track with approximately 100-120ft straight line? I do have infrared temp gun for nitro engine BTW.
this can be quite different for different motors i've found..
one thing i try and do is find a ratio that keeps the motor in the 60-70 deg C range and call it the safe ratio (cruisy but competitive etc)
probably no more than around 80-90 deg C if you're pushing the motors, but it really depends on what motor

an example of one that likes to run hot..
my SP 3.5 likes to run over 100 deg C when geared at 10.5 FDR on an outdoor asphalt track with 55 deg track temps and 30-35 deg ambient/air temps
the same wind from LRP geared at 9 FDR pushes 70-80 deg C
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:45 AM
  #1190  
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i tend to keep it Tamiya...

6mm hubs..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f20...9-p-14465.html

and wheel spacers..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-nut...?cPath=421_343
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-whe...6-p-16432.html
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-whe...7-p-11687.html
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:49 AM
  #1191  
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Originally Posted by HI_808 View Post
The TA05MS is quite a bit faster than the TA05R. Also, the drivetrain on the MS is more efficient and more reliable.

I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
my TA05ms is now running short arms and very close to the TRF416WE setup (also replaced all the uprights, c-hubs, bearings, universals and a suspension bridge etc)..

i thought my car was pretty well setup before, but boy does it seem to handle now..
(at least on street testing, hasnt seen a track yet)

-Mark
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:15 AM
  #1192  
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
this can be quite different for different motors i've found..
one thing i try and do is find a ratio that keeps the motor in the 60-70 deg C range and call it the safe ratio (cruisy but competitive etc)
probably no more than around 80-90 deg C if you're pushing the motors, but it really depends on what motor

an example of one that likes to run hot..
my SP 3.5 likes to run over 100 deg C when geared at 10.5 FDR on an outdoor asphalt track with 55 deg track temps and 30-35 deg ambient/air temps
the same wind from LRP geared at 9 FDR pushes 70-80 deg C
Thanks again for the info Mok! I just been to my LHS and my MS has just arrived at the Fed Ex office however I can only pick it up tomorrow. I ll post again during assembly if I have any issue building it.
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:34 AM
  #1193  
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thanks again for the info Mok! I just been to my LHS and my MS has just arrived at the Fed Ex office however I can only pick it up tomorrow. I ll post again during assembly if I have any issue building it.
here's my tips for the build...

- file the battery slots to make sure the batteries fit in snug

- if you plan on using tape to hold the battery in, file the tape slots so they wont cut the tape (sharp edges on CF are bad for this)

- glue ALL exposed edges of carbon fibre, including all cutouts/slots etc (bottom and top decks, damper stays)

- make sure that you use the anti-wear grease where it says (you'll prob find that taking an inner suspension bridge out once assembled is annoying etc)

- notch the pins that go inside the universal's cross joints abuot half way down so the grub screw sits in it and use threadlock on the grub screw

- in the front uprights there is a screw that goes in from the bottom (through a flanged tube) and into the lower screw hole in the upright.. would recommend that you use a 2mm longer screw there than the manual suggests (i think it says 8mm, use 10mm) so it wont strip out easily

- dont over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the spur gear onto the spur gear holder as it will warp the spur gear if over-tightened


....hopefully thats a start for you

-Mark
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:24 AM
  #1194  
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
here's my tips for the build...

- file the battery slots to make sure the batteries fit in snug

- if you plan on using tape to hold the battery in, file the tape slots so they wont cut the tape (sharp edges on CF are bad for this)

- glue ALL exposed edges of carbon fibre, including all cutouts/slots etc (bottom and top decks, damper stays)

- make sure that you use the anti-wear grease where it says (you'll prob find that taking an inner suspension bridge out once assembled is annoying etc)

- notch the pins that go inside the universal's cross joints abuot half way down so the grub screw sits in it and use threadlock on the grub screw

- in the front uprights there is a screw that goes in from the bottom (through a flanged tube) and into the lower screw hole in the upright.. would recommend that you use a 2mm longer screw there than the manual suggests (i think it says 8mm, use 10mm) so it wont strip out easily

- dont over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the spur gear onto the spur gear holder as it will warp the spur gear if over-tightened


....hopefully thats a start for you

-Mark
Thanks for the advice!! Will update my build in this thread soon.
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:16 PM
  #1195  
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I run 28mm foams on my MS with the original LWT arms for stablity.
Had to use an inner shock mount to clear the wheels!
Switched the front steering knuckles to Hot Bodies Cyclone units to clear the front wheels.
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:31 PM
  #1196  
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
my TA05ms is now running short arms and very close to the TRF416WE setup (also replaced all the uprights, c-hubs, bearings, universals and a suspension bridge etc)..

i thought my car was pretty well setup before, but boy does it seem to handle now..
(at least on street testing, hasnt seen a track yet)

-Mark
I'm glad that it's going well! Good luck at the circuit!
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:55 PM
  #1197  
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has anyone taken the TA05 (tub chassis) IFS front end and put it on the TA05MS???
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:05 PM
  #1198  
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Who out there is running 17.5 in their MS? whats the biggest spur and pinion i can get to fit without any modifications? i need to get my ratio as low as 3.5

Cheers
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:41 AM
  #1199  
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
Who out there is running 17.5 in their MS? whats the biggest spur and pinion i can get to fit without any modifications? i need to get my ratio as low as 3.5

Cheers
You need a small spur and large pinion. I've never ran 17.5 and don't know what's the highest gear ratio you would be able to reach, but I did use a 88 tooth spur and a 47 tooth pinion without any issues with a 13.5.
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:23 AM
  #1200  
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Ok guys I need help ASAP, i just encounter my first problem building this kit. I m on step 12 on the manual assembling rear suspension arm to the chassis, when i put everything together the arms do not move freely up and down. My experience building nitro kits I always make sure the arms drop down under their own weight. I check and recheck the instruction as well as spacers/shim, still its not that free. I notice this when i screw in the rear suspension shaft block 1D. Is this normal or am I doing somethings wrong here? I do have various thickness motor shim in my tool box that I can use to replace the included shims, however I want to use and build as per the manual instructed.
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