Herc Driver

iTrader: (8)

How often have you found yourself replacing a belt?

Thanks for the reply...just seems as I can't see why they discontinued this kit...possibly with the 415/416/EVO something had to give.

HI_808

Some guys replace belts pretty often, but I've been using the same belts on my TA05MS since I got it about a year and a half ago with a 10.5 and 13.5 on lipo. The only thing needed was to adjust the tension. I've got spares, but I never had the need for them.

mok

iTrader: (9)

i've gone through about half a dozen belts, roughly split evenly front to rear..
in most cases i knew what caused it.

DirtyRacer

iTrader: (5)

please provide examples....so that I can prevent the same thing from happening

FastRC

Hi Racers,

I have been running my MS for about 18 months and really enjoy the car.

The question I have relates to running the MS on long open tracks. I run in Perth and do not have many opportunities to run on the above mentioned tracks. I have the full range of pinions and spurs for 64p, 48p and AV and would like suggestions as to what gearing would be a good starting point for my 17.5 brushless and 27 turn brushed setups?

Cheers

mok

iTrader: (9)

front belt
- worn centre pulley, belt shredded teeth as it slipped
- universal shaft pin came out from crossjoint when using front spool and locked the axle, spool doesnt diff so motor forced belt to slipp on centre and diff pulleys and shred teeth
- belt tension adjusters incorrectly set, tension too loose and belt slipped/shredded

rear belt
- stone wedged between rear wide pitch diff pulley and over tensioned and snapped/cut the belt
- worn diff pulley resulted in slipping/shredded belt

This is mainly the wear i've been getting whilst running modified touring with the 3.5T brushless and 5 cell setup, on both carpet and asphalt.

mok

iTrader: (9)

FastRC, which track in Perth?
I also race in Perth, at both PRECC and Ryper....

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I run the Perth tracks with a 4.1 FDR for Brushless 17.5 turn (35/70 in a TA-05 IFSR with an IDR of 2.055)

Qatmix

Parts are easy to come across. The car is still in production and is popular in Japan (which is the important bit when considering the longevity of parts).

The difference is lap times for me when I moved up to my ta05ms was really good. The car is very precise and it works well on my local track.

FastRC

Hi Mok,

I run at PRECC and have run at Ryper in the past. People know as AJ.

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone fitted a bitty design Lipo Tray to an MS. If so which one.

Kevin

nikkiesteban

iTrader: (5)

tips on how to smooth-out the cell slots?
I will smooth-out the cell slots to fit sub-c batteries.
pics will be much better. thanks

mok

iTrader: (9)

File the slots on a 45deg angle on the top side of the lower deck. The angled part on my slots ended up about 2-2.5mm wide. I'd post pics but my digital camera doesnt do close shots too well and wouldnt show you much!


Pretty sure you've seen the Bitty Design tray mounted in my car now :P

For those that are curious, model # BD-LBT50E02 (or just Type 2) that fits the TRF chassis (along with a few others like XRAY, CORALLY).

The TRF tray moves the lipo out to the side ~15mm.
The tray adds 46gms to your chassis.

Used mine for the first time last night in my car. I got pushed into a barrel roll by another car and rolled about 7 times and the tray did not come loose and the lipo did not move.

This is using the taping method described as "Solution 1" on the page here...
http://www.bittydesign.net/PortaLipoTAMIYA-TRF-ING.htm

I'm sure solution 2 would be ok as well, but #1 felt safer for the first use of both the tray and a lipo in my chassis.

-Mark

nikkiesteban

iTrader: (5)

Anyone who care to show pics? I'm hesitant to smooth-out the slots.. I want to see pics to see the idea. thanks

mok

iTrader: (9)

In the pic, you'll see 2 white arrows pointing to the long edge of the slots, on the upper side of the lower deck. These are the edges you need to file.

The yellow lines/shape are showing the extents of the original slot.
The blue lines/shapes are showing where the angled surface is in relation to the original slots.

You just need to file the edges that are being pointed at by the white arrows on a 45 degree angle (its ok if the angle is less). The flat edge that is created on the angle when you file it is probably 2-3mm wide (wouldnt go much less otherwise the batteries wont sit down into the slots).

You can see mine arent perfect and its not made any difference. As long as the battery sits down into the slots it should be ok.

-Mark