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Old 04-20-2008, 10:11 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by kavadni View Post
The MS manual makes no mention of antisquat.
Would the placement of a spacer under the forward rear suspension bridge give my car antisquat, or is there a problem with doing this?

Kevin
It may help if you run your car's rear end much higher than the front end. mostly on road car just keeps the rear end castor horizontally to the ground.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:34 PM   #992
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Is there any benefit to using a power capacitor with 27T stock motors?

Kevin
that what I try to ask for a long time. I saw some guys used one on his micro RS4 with mini motor, esc and batteries etc. it could kick like a turbo when exiting coner, which is very impressive. they call it "turbo charger" too. but I really don't know where they placed it on the battery side or on the esc to motor side.

the only way to boost a 540 motor's kick is to increase voltage. I don't think plainly adding the capacitor could help. but, I saw some stock class 540 mini FWD cars are exceptionally fast on the straight. some of guys in the feild may be using a voltage booster added between the 101bk esc and the stock 540 to add boost. just my plain guessing.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:34 PM   #993
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duobled :P
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Last edited by zenithrr; 04-25-2008 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 04-24-2008, 08:56 PM   #994
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just yesterday i got my ms running and it is really smooth and quick with just a 27t! i expected it to be much slower that it was. and it really turn too, im using an off-road jr z590 hi torque servo and still it hits the turns great!
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Old 04-29-2008, 04:28 AM   #995
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hello ,
i need to replace the centre pulleys on my my 05MS

and wondering if there is a aluminium replacement for them.
thanx
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:12 PM   #996
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hello ,
i need to replace the centre pulleys on my my 05MS

and wondering if there is a aluminium replacement for them.
thanx
I haven't seen aluminum but my experience with aluminum is the belt wears the teeth out pretty quickly. The teeth become kinda sharp
then wear the belt out. It's better to stay with the plastic...they wear a lot better
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Old 05-06-2008, 01:50 AM   #997
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Default Toe blocks

Hi does anyone know where I can find a list of the Tamiya toe blocks and what all the letters stand for in degrees ??
Thanks
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:23 AM   #998
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Hi does anyone know where I can find a list of the Tamiya toe blocks and what all the letters stand for in degrees ??
Thanks
Hey E-clip. This should explain it - www.thard.co.uk/excel/ToeBlocks.xls.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:23 AM   #999
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Hi does anyone know where I can find a list of the Tamiya toe blocks and what all the letters stand for in degrees ??
Thanks
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30
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Old 05-06-2008, 03:02 AM   #1000
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Hey E-clip. This should explain it - www.thard.co.uk/excel/ToeBlocks.xls.
hehe, beat me too it... however, it's all moved now, so the above link in my post is the correct one

Cheers
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Old 05-06-2008, 04:12 AM   #1001
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Thanks guys for the info
I need to dial out some toe in on the rear
Losing to much speed down the straight
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:57 AM   #1002
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Let me preface everything I say about this chassis by first saying that I feel this car has a lot of potential to be a very fast, and very competitive car with the only real hinderance being the lack of support it has due to people using what Tamiya TRF drivers use such as the 416.

Now, I would say that in my expereince with this car, it turns quiet well in the center of the corner, but has a push on corner entry due to the position of the motor. I have been messing around with a few different setup adjustments, but have not come across anything that has made this chassis feel even close to my old 415MSX. Has anyone found a way to cure this issue, or is this something only I am having a problem with?
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:28 PM   #1003
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
Let me preface everything I say about this chassis by first saying that I feel this car has a lot of potential to be a very fast, and very competitive car with the only real hinderance being the lack of support it has due to people using what Tamiya TRF drivers use such as the 416.

Now, I would say that in my expereince with this car, it turns quiet well in the center of the corner, but has a push on corner entry due to the position of the motor. I have been messing around with a few different setup adjustments, but have not come across anything that has made this chassis feel even close to my old 415MSX. Has anyone found a way to cure this issue, or is this something only I am having a problem with?
Whats the rest of your current setup? I might be able to help suggest some things...

Ed
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:44 PM   #1004
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I appreciate any info you can give me to try. One thing I haven't tried is short arms or short arms in front and long in the rear. Let me know if you need anymore info:

Body: MazdaSpeed6
Tires: MuchMore Premounts
Motor: LRP 13.5
ESC: LRP Sphere TC Competition
Servo: Futaba S9550
Battery: Orion 3200 Lipo
Front Gearbox: Spool

Front:
Upper Arm Position: 3
Damper Position: 3
Upper Arm Spacer: 3mm
No spacers under suspension blocks
B/A
#3 on arm
4 deg caster blocks
-2 camber
5mm ride height
25mm droop (measured from top of axle to set up board)
Tamiya Yellow sway bar
400wt Tamiya oil
Tamiya Yellow Springs
.5mm spacers on axles
5mm clamps
46mm Swing Shaft

Rear:
Upper Arm Position: 2
Damper Position: 4
Upper Arm Spacer: 3mm
Rear Hub: 0 Deg.
Rear Hub Spacer: 2mm
XB/D
0.7mm spacer underneath XB
#3 on arm
-2 camber
5mm ride height
25mm droop (measured from top of axle to set up board)
Tamiya yellow sway bar
400wt Tamiya oil
Tamiya Yellow Springs
.5mm spacers on axles
5mm clamps
48mm Swing Shaft

Wheelbase:
3mm behind front arm
3mm in front of rear arm
Ackerman: Front hole
Steering rack: no spacers

Last edited by AWK; 05-07-2008 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 05-07-2008, 03:38 PM   #1005
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Hi CarKing,

It looks like you are running a spool, so I don't know if I can be much help since I use a one-way for a small ~60' x 60' course. Anyway when I first got the TA05MS, I too felt like it understeered excessively on turn entrance. I tried all kinds of things with the setup though I went in the wrong direction at first. You may have already tried what I am about to suggest, however. I apologize if I am of no help.

Roll characteristics have to do with the placement of the weight plus other things, so I thought about full-sized cars and engine placement. MR or RR cars like the NSX or Porsches have quick reactions, but cannot turn overall as sharply as FR cars. FR cars have slower responses, but can take a sharper racing line. Thus, understeer in FR cars is largely a problem at turn entry from an excess of forward weight shift whereas understeer in cars whose weight is rear-biased happens in mid-corner from a lack of weight on the front tires.

Just like FR cars which have a more forward weight bias (though the TA05MS doesn't have quite as much front weight bias), I realized it was too much forward weight shift which led to the understeer on my TA05MS. It behaved pretty well except for on corner entry. I tried some anti-dive and got good results. Later, I found out that putting 0.5 mm spacers under both of my front suspension mounts made my car handle much better overall.

Ken

Last edited by HI_808; 05-07-2008 at 08:11 PM.
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