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Old 02-16-2008, 06:41 PM   #931
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Originally Posted by Martinst View Post
Hi,

Just bought one of these a week ago and had a few questions ! wheres the best place to source parts in the UK? also anyone recommend a good stock 27t motor for some tight indoor carpet tracks !

Hey Martin,

have fun down the club today.
If your after some advise, hunt out David Cousions, Paul Myall, or John or Chris Barrett, they'll all point you in the right direction

Motor wise, any CO27 or Monster based motor will be fine (blue or green can basically)

Car looks good, now get some electronics in it and bring it out racing next time

Cheers
Ed
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:00 PM   #932
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Default Droop

Does any one have a good droop setting for meduim grip asphalt the 1.5mm manual rec looks a little much
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:20 AM   #933
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after fitting a spool and about 10 minutes racing i noticed that the wheels hex's on both the front wheels have been rounded.
can it be the plastic on the wheels that is not good or something wrong with the ally hex in the car???
if i use the front diff is ok,only when using the front spool the problem appears.
thanx
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Old 02-22-2008, 05:19 PM   #934
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Default Setup Advice

Hello, my son and I race TA05’s at our local track, mine is a TA05MS and my son has a TA05 with a 3 racing Carbon chassis, we are the only Tamiya runners in a sea of Schumacher’s. We are only racing 10 months but have already acquired quiet a selection of TA05’s including a TA05R that my son had before changing to the carbon chassis car and then I ran it before getting the MS. I love the whole technical side of RC racing and to that end have read tons of stuff relating to setup etc. but I still cant say I’m happy with the handling of my car, my son is only 11 and he just drives around any problems with handling. I know a lot of my problems are self inflicted as I try different things but maybe some of ye out there may suggest things for me to try.
We race at a couple of venues, our local track is in a school gym, it has a tarmac surface that is usually very dusty (football pitch beside it and the hall is used for changing) so its usually very slippery, we run stock 27 turn or 13.5 brushless the tyre of choice is Take Off cc27, the track has mostly tight corners with one long straight 20mtrs approx. The other tracks we run on are polished wooden floors on which we run Schumacher 20mm yellow Mini Pins, these tracks are very tight and technical. When I got the MS it came with a front one way, and I also fitted a one way to my sons for him to try we’ve done two events on wood and a couple on our local track and we struggled, one of the experienced drivers last weekend told us front one ways are a no no on wood and would say it wouldn’t suit our local track either. I’ve taken out the one ways and replaced them with standard ball diffs which we will try next Wed night. My latest settings are.. ride height- 5.5 front 5.0 rear. Droop front 2.5mm rear 3.0mm, front toe 1deg out, rear 3deg each side in. camber 1.75mm all round, Tamiya trf shocks three holes, Tamiya soft yellow springs and tamiya soft 400 shock oil, and soft black stabilizer bars front and back. I run a Orion pro stock co27 motor that I had a transmission ratio of 7.50 but I changed it for the last wooden floor event to 8.29 I’ve also been having motor problems, it started when I bought both motors for our cars and couldn’t get them to run right and eventually figured I had too low a gear ratio that was not allowing the motor to rev, but lately the problem seems to have come back, basically the motor “misses” or splutters, or stops mid rev for a split second this coupled to a one way on timber makes for a very unstable car to drive, one of the experienced drivers recons the brush springs are losing their tension and this gets worse as the motor heats up, I’ve ordered new springs, but last Wed night I ran with the springs bent to provide more pressure on the brushes but it still didn’t run right. This is a long first post and I hope somebody out there can suggest some things for us to try, so we can prove that our beloved Tamiya’s are a force to be reckoned with, thanks in advance for any replies, Lotus
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:24 PM   #935
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Wink Set-up issues!

You should get yourself a temp gun for about $20 that way in the future you can monitor motor temp so you can get in the right ratio. Temp of motor should be 170 F. You didn't mention if the com needed to be turned or if the brushes were bad. If the motor overheats the brushes will look discolored as does the com. Better yet just stick with the 13.5 brushless!
As far as set-up, everything you said seems fine. I myself don't run any rear swaybars and don't run the one-ways especially on tracks with low traction. Diff or spool is best.Also, if surface is slippery or bumpy more droop all around is much better.The car will feel more planted. Not sure what you ment with 1.75mm camber. Camber is measured in degrees, if that's what you meant?
I also like to use traction compound on the tires and if the track is cold tire warmers help also. Last, softer inserts will help keep the tires on the track!
Hope I was of some help!
Just my 2$
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:42 AM   #936
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Thanks for the reply Maxepower,
Upps! camber was 1.75 degrees, I dont have a 13.5 turn brushless but these are allowed in our class. I havent used traction compound yet but I have a bottle on the way, I have also ordered a Tweak station to see if I have any issues in that department. Going brushless is something we will look at but when I have to buy two of everything it gets a bit expensive. I have cut my com on a lathe and fitted new brushes and the motor ran ok for about 5 0r 6 5min races before starting to act up again. Lotus.
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Old 02-23-2008, 03:02 AM   #937
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lotus,

In what way are your cars not handling as well as you'd like them to?
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Old 02-23-2008, 04:25 AM   #938
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Its difficult to say, we held an event last Sept where we cleaned the track (brushed and vacumecleaned) at that event I ran the TA05R, because the grip level was better than we usually have I found the car much easier to drive and I was able to concentrate on "racing" instead of the usual do not crash! I know a lot of my problems may be my driving ability, but I'm not yet ready to accept I'm crap. Our track is very inconsistant, one night it can be damp, the next dirty the grip levels are always different, also the surface is smooth in some areas and course in others, it will proberly improve as the Summer comes but last year I always had major understeer with my standard TA05 but I now know where I was going wrong with my setup, and I was also very much a novice. When we race on timber we have a much more consistant track, it is easier to feel changes when setup changes are made, but since I have got the MS I've ran it with the one way and the car has been very difficult, it takes 100% of my concentration just to stop spinning, entry into corners are knife edge but if I get the entry ok once I get on the power the car will turn well under power and is fairly predictable. What I cant handle is a nervous car I just need a car that is neutral, it dosen't need to be fast that can come later.
Its easy when sitting in a car to tell what its doing as you can feel it through the seat of your pants, its not so easy when you'r standing on a bench watching a car and when all your brain power is being used to stay on the track leaving nothing for analising what the car is doing.
Its also possible my droop settings are not correct, I've been setting my ride height and droop using a stack of washers, I make a stack of washers 5mm high and adjust the ride height untill the car clears them, I then make a stack 8mm high (3mm droop) sit the car on top of them and adjust the droop screws untill the wheel just makes contact with the ground. A bit crude! but I have a droop guage, block and ride height guage on the way so I can hopefully make more accurate measurements.
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Old 02-24-2008, 04:24 AM   #939
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Lotus,

The one way is tricky, masses of turn in makes it easy to spin out.
Very unforgiving, turning in while breaking hard.
I think you need to get more weight to the rear while under breaks.
There are several things you can do to this end. Heavier springs at the front, or lighter at the rear, heavier stabiliser at the front lay your rear shocks down, add weight at rear. I am not suggesting them all.
My personal favourite, which has helped my car with the one way, is to reduce rear droop, try a mm or 2 less than the front. This keeps the weight at the rear. It may give you a liitle understeer.

I recommend that you download the instructions for the hudy all in one setup system from www.hudy.net. It's a great little setup guide.

Cheer

Kevin
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:19 PM   #940
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Well I'm getting there, just waiting for the radio handset and receiver to come through the post and I can run the car. Got a Novak GTX and trinity monster to start me off.

Interesting to see how it compares to my TT-01, which is pretty well hopped up with diffs, one way etc. ( MRT Pro speedo is current away for service / repair )

MS




And my TT-01 ( 100 grams heavier than TA05ms )


Last edited by Martinst; 04-14-2008 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 02-24-2008, 03:48 PM   #941
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Thanks for the Hudy link Kevin, just picked up some good points there. Lotus.
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Old 02-29-2008, 01:29 AM   #942
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Default TA05MS not suitable for Mod Racing

Hi Guys..

Tamiya may kill me for saying this but just want to let you guys know... Some may already are aware.

I checked with the TRF drivers during the recent TITC, why the TA05MS chassis was not used for mod class.

The reply was that, they need to have more weight in the rear of the car to provide more rear traction.

The almost mid motor mount of the 05MS just couldn't provide this. Which was why the TRF416 was chosen ahead of the 05MS. How sad

The 05MS is more suitable for stock 23T/10.5 racing.
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Old 02-29-2008, 01:58 AM   #943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus View Post
Its difficult to say, we held an event last Sept where we cleaned the track (brushed and vacumecleaned) at that event I ran the TA05R, because the grip level was better than we usually have I found the car much easier to drive and I was able to concentrate on "racing" instead of the usual do not crash! I know a lot of my problems may be my driving ability, but I'm not yet ready to accept I'm crap. Our track is very inconsistant, one night it can be damp, the next dirty the grip levels are always different, also the surface is smooth in some areas and course in others, it will proberly improve as the Summer comes but last year I always had major understeer with my standard TA05 but I now know where I was going wrong with my setup, and I was also very much a novice. When we race on timber we have a much more consistant track, it is easier to feel changes when setup changes are made, but since I have got the MS I've ran it with the one way and the car has been very difficult, it takes 100% of my concentration just to stop spinning, entry into corners are knife edge but if I get the entry ok once I get on the power the car will turn well under power and is fairly predictable. What I cant handle is a nervous car I just need a car that is neutral, it dosen't need to be fast that can come later.
Its easy when sitting in a car to tell what its doing as you can feel it through the seat of your pants, its not so easy when you'r standing on a bench watching a car and when all your brain power is being used to stay on the track leaving nothing for analising what the car is doing.
Its also possible my droop settings are not correct, I've been setting my ride height and droop using a stack of washers, I make a stack of washers 5mm high and adjust the ride height untill the car clears them, I then make a stack 8mm high (3mm droop) sit the car on top of them and adjust the droop screws untill the wheel just makes contact with the ground. A bit crude! but I have a droop guage, block and ride height guage on the way so I can hopefully make more accurate measurements.
3mm of rear droop is way too much. Get it down to about 1mm (or even less if you need) and you'll have less off power over steer.....
What's happening is all that rear droop lets the weight transfer to the front of the car when you let off the throttle thus increasing your front traction and the result is over steer. Very important that the left and right has equal droop also.
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Old 02-29-2008, 02:22 AM   #944
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Hi Guys..

Tamiya may kill me for saying this but just want to let you guys know... Some may already are aware.

I checked with the TRF drivers during the recent TITC, why the TA05MS chassis was not used for mod class.

The reply was that, they need to have more weight in the rear of the car to provide more rear traction.

The almost mid motor mount of the 05MS just couldn't provide this. Which was why the TRF416 was chosen ahead of the 05MS. How sad

The 05MS is more suitable for stock 23T/10.5 racing.


The info bout MS05 is no secret anymore...and had been discuss as i'm aware in some thread, if i'm not mistaken..one's quote (a Japanese guy) says the same thing...anyway its a good car running on stock class and carpet or small tight tracks..
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Old 02-29-2008, 03:17 AM   #945
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi Guys..

Tamiya may kill me for saying this but just want to let you guys know... Some may already are aware.

I checked with the TRF drivers during the recent TITC, why the TA05MS chassis was not used for mod class.

The reply was that, they need to have more weight in the rear of the car to provide more rear traction.

The almost mid motor mount of the 05MS just couldn't provide this. Which was why the TRF416 was chosen ahead of the 05MS. How sad

The 05MS is more suitable for stock 23T/10.5 racing.
No car can rule all classes. You've got to think in terms of "horses for courses". In Japan where they don't run too much mod, the TA05MS is a hot item. Also, look at the last TCS World's where 19 turn is the fastest class: the TRF guys used the TA05MS and beat out a lot of people using the 415MSXX. In such cases, the forward motor position provides more weight up front which translates into an ability to take a sharper racing line (though I think you sacrifice a little responsiveness).
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