2LikesTamiya TA05MS
11-02-2007, 10:59 AM
#796
Originally Posted by HI_808
Is the TA05 line the replacement for the TB line?
11-02-2007, 06:33 PM
#797
Originally Posted by Cruisaaja
Hey Xanavi, what`s up man?
Nothing special. Some of the 17t carpet racing and i alredy won one club race and one big race i managed a-main 6th.
I just joy my MS ride.
Nothing special. Some of the 17t carpet racing and i alredy won one club race and one big race i managed a-main 6th.
I just joy my MS ride.
I just discovered something last sunday last week... When me and my group of drifters went on a "out of town trip" and visited and tried out the track of the place where we visited... And it was a cement track, a little bit of rough and the track was not flat, I mean it was going up hill then going down... When going down, you have to go through 3 U turns plus a L turn on the last...
Anyway, I have never ran on their track so setting up my 05MS was a challenge... But guess what, I just put like 2mm spacers on the springs to give it a little bit of tension (instead of adjusting the screw) then tried it out for a spin and surprisingly my 05MS ran on their track like it was meant for it, meaning, the handling was superb, didn't have to use breaks whatsoever, just throttle-release-throttle... People there were surprised maybe of the performance and asked me what kit I was using... Hahaha...
The 05MS is really a great car... It is a all around kit... By the way, I was using a 23t motor and the track was a tight track (technical)... Very very nice...
The was nice too!
11-03-2007, 03:13 AM
#798
Originally Posted by quantum
generally, the ta0X line is their belt drive cars, while the tb0x cars are shaft drive cars
What I meant was that I've heard on a Japanese forum is that the TB line is going to be discontinued and that the TA05MS is doing really well in races in their stock classes. Also, consider that the TA05 range looks a lot like how the TB range did a few years ago (TB02, TB02R, TB Evo). Since there will be no more TB chassis for the more mild motors, the TA05 series may be the replacement since it seems to be especially strong in spec classes.
Perhaps we'll see another evolution of the TA05MS in the future.
11-03-2007, 04:00 AM
#799
hello guys 
i agree with xanavi, its good in technical track. like my 05ms "lots of steering".
very easy to drive.
race report, I won 1st place here in stock silver can class. its fast and thanks to a very free drive train. even though our track is cement it has a lot of steering and very easy to take turns and the spool really helped me a lot in turning tight turns.
maybe one of these days i might try my car in 23t motors.
one thing that annoys me is the screws of suspension blocks, when i hit a race track division my suspension blocks will move and will cause some slops in the arms, but when i tightened its so hard to remove the screws. Do you think upgrading to titanium screws will solve this problems? the tightening screw issues?
i agree with xanavi, its good in technical track. like my 05ms "lots of steering".
very easy to drive.
race report, I won 1st place here in stock silver can class. its fast and thanks to a very free drive train. even though our track is cement it has a lot of steering and very easy to take turns and the spool really helped me a lot in turning tight turns.
maybe one of these days i might try my car in 23t motors.
one thing that annoys me is the screws of suspension blocks, when i hit a race track division my suspension blocks will move and will cause some slops in the arms, but when i tightened its so hard to remove the screws. Do you think upgrading to titanium screws will solve this problems? the tightening screw issues?
11-06-2007, 03:37 PM
#801
Originally Posted by turtle
Will a Silver Can motor fit straight into the TA05MS without any modifications?
11-06-2007, 04:04 PM
#802
Guys, how exactly do you mount your stabilizer? How tight should you secure it? After installing, and with damper removed, should the opposite arm be rising when you lift the other? What is the correct method such that the stabilizer works well?
TQ
TQ
11-06-2007, 04:12 PM
#803
Originally Posted by [email protected]
The 05MS can fit in any 540 sized motor without modifications.
Another question. Does the 05MS come with Uni's on the front and rear?
11-06-2007, 06:04 PM
#804
Originally Posted by turtle
Thanks.
Another question. Does the 05MS come with Uni's on the front and rear?
Another question. Does the 05MS come with Uni's on the front and rear?
11-06-2007, 06:09 PM
#805
nikkiesteban,
Ti is softer and lighter than steel, so I can't see how it would help to solve your problem. The point of changing to Ti screws is to reduce weight in comparison to steel screws. I don't think you should worry about a little slop, though. There is some play designed into the suspension to provide a "cushion" under load (such as in a crash). Also, the arms probably don't move much along the hinge pin when the car is moving.
[email protected],
The grub screws that mount the stabilizer to the bulkhead should only get very close to touching the stabilizer. Otherwise, the stabilizer wouldn't efficiently divide the load to the opposite wheel.
turtle,
The TA05MS comes with steel 48 mm universals in the front and 48 mm aluminum universals in the rear.
Ti is softer and lighter than steel, so I can't see how it would help to solve your problem. The point of changing to Ti screws is to reduce weight in comparison to steel screws. I don't think you should worry about a little slop, though. There is some play designed into the suspension to provide a "cushion" under load (such as in a crash). Also, the arms probably don't move much along the hinge pin when the car is moving.
[email protected],
The grub screws that mount the stabilizer to the bulkhead should only get very close to touching the stabilizer. Otherwise, the stabilizer wouldn't efficiently divide the load to the opposite wheel.
turtle,
The TA05MS comes with steel 48 mm universals in the front and 48 mm aluminum universals in the rear.
11-06-2007, 08:11 PM
#806
Originally Posted by HI_808
nikkiesteban,
Ti is softer and lighter than steel, so I can't see how it would help to solve your problem. The point of changing to Ti screws is to reduce weight in comparison to steel screws. I don't think you should worry about a little slop, though. There is some play designed into the suspension to provide a "cushion" under load (such as in a crash). Also, the arms probably don't move much along the hinge pin when the car is moving.
Ti is softer and lighter than steel, so I can't see how it would help to solve your problem. The point of changing to Ti screws is to reduce weight in comparison to steel screws. I don't think you should worry about a little slop, though. There is some play designed into the suspension to provide a "cushion" under load (such as in a crash). Also, the arms probably don't move much along the hinge pin when the car is moving.
So I thought that the suspension block moves and cause some steering issues.
my only problem with the steel screws is if i tightened my screws(under the chassis screws) it's so hard to remove and sometimes the head of the screws end up stripped.
Unlike with my old 415 with titanium screws. no matter how hard I tightened the screws i didn't encountered that issue.
did you carefully tightened your suspension block screws?
11-07-2007, 03:39 AM
#807
nikkie,
If you straightened your suspension mounts after the collision and it made your car drive straight, it sounds like the mounts being moved is the problem like you suspect. Maybe the suspension mount screws loosen after a while and then are susceptible to shift if you impact something hard enough. Do you use thread lock/loctite on those screws? I have a Ti screw set on my 05MS, but I use the steel screws in the suspension mounts with a very small amount of blue thread lock and I haven't had problems how you are describing.
If you straightened your suspension mounts after the collision and it made your car drive straight, it sounds like the mounts being moved is the problem like you suspect. Maybe the suspension mount screws loosen after a while and then are susceptible to shift if you impact something hard enough. Do you use thread lock/loctite on those screws? I have a Ti screw set on my 05MS, but I use the steel screws in the suspension mounts with a very small amount of blue thread lock and I haven't had problems how you are describing.
11-07-2007, 04:11 AM
#808
Originally Posted by HI_808
nikkie,
If you straightened your suspension mounts after the collision and it made your car drive straight, it sounds like the mounts being moved is the problem like you suspect. Maybe the suspension mount screws loosen after a while and then are susceptible to shift if you impact something hard enough. Do you use thread lock/loctite on those screws? I have a Ti screw set on my 05MS, but I use the steel screws in the suspension mounts with a very small amount of blue thread lock and I haven't had problems how you are describing.
If you straightened your suspension mounts after the collision and it made your car drive straight, it sounds like the mounts being moved is the problem like you suspect. Maybe the suspension mount screws loosen after a while and then are susceptible to shift if you impact something hard enough. Do you use thread lock/loctite on those screws? I have a Ti screw set on my 05MS, but I use the steel screws in the suspension mounts with a very small amount of blue thread lock and I haven't had problems how you are describing.
11-07-2007, 04:27 AM
#809
Without sounding like I am stating the obvious, after a hit sometimes it makes the hinge pin and the toe block bad.
The alloy toe blocks can come with a plastic inner part which could distort and give bad toe readings once damaged.
As HI808 says though, there is slop (I can vouch for this in any Tamiya ive had so far) and this acts as a cushion in the event of an crash. Which in turn should save more stress being put on parts.
Titanium screws will be good for weight saving and strength, but unlikely to prevent slop. If threads are not stripped, more than likely it is just how Tamiya designed it.
If its any peace of mind to you, my ta05 has a fair amount of slop that doesnt seem to affect its handling and I dont feel the need to shim it out as such. You can usually tell if the car needs shimming or parts replaced on it when the handling goes AWOL.
The alloy toe blocks can come with a plastic inner part which could distort and give bad toe readings once damaged.
As HI808 says though, there is slop (I can vouch for this in any Tamiya ive had so far) and this acts as a cushion in the event of an crash. Which in turn should save more stress being put on parts.
Titanium screws will be good for weight saving and strength, but unlikely to prevent slop. If threads are not stripped, more than likely it is just how Tamiya designed it.
If its any peace of mind to you, my ta05 has a fair amount of slop that doesnt seem to affect its handling and I dont feel the need to shim it out as such. You can usually tell if the car needs shimming or parts replaced on it when the handling goes AWOL.
11-07-2007, 04:41 AM
#810
Originally Posted by tc3team
Without sounding like I am stating the obvious, after a hit sometimes it makes the hinge pin and the toe block bad.
The alloy toe blocks can come with a plastic inner part which could distort and give bad toe readings once damaged.
As HI808 says though, there is slop (I can vouch for this in any Tamiya ive had so far) and this acts as a cushion in the event of an crash. Which in turn should save more stress being put on parts.
Titanium screws will be good for weight saving and strength, but unlikely to prevent slop. If threads are not stripped, more than likely it is just how Tamiya designed it.
If its any peace of mind to you, my ta05 has a fair amount of slop that doesnt seem to affect its handling and I dont feel the need to shim it out as such. You can usually tell if the car needs shimming or parts replaced on it when the handling goes AWOL.
The alloy toe blocks can come with a plastic inner part which could distort and give bad toe readings once damaged.
As HI808 says though, there is slop (I can vouch for this in any Tamiya ive had so far) and this acts as a cushion in the event of an crash. Which in turn should save more stress being put on parts.
Titanium screws will be good for weight saving and strength, but unlikely to prevent slop. If threads are not stripped, more than likely it is just how Tamiya designed it.
If its any peace of mind to you, my ta05 has a fair amount of slop that doesnt seem to affect its handling and I dont feel the need to shim it out as such. You can usually tell if the car needs shimming or parts replaced on it when the handling goes AWOL.
