2LikesTamiya TA05MS
10-18-2007, 04:04 PM
#781
I just finished transforming my 934 kit into a TA05MS. All that I needed was the top and bottom decks and the longer front MS belt!
I kept the short arms that came with the 934. I'm hoping that by using the rest of the stock MS settings as a starting point, the car won't be too twitchy like mentioned above. I know it's going to transition wieght better side-to-side.
I'll see how it drives compared to my Kawada/Penguin chassis TA05R that has been so solid all summer for me. By the winter racing season, I should have this car dialed! Then next year maybe I'll be in a 416
Any set-yp tips for the short suspension arms would be greatly appreciated.
FYI:
13.5 BL / LiPo
CS27 / RP30
4.5 FD
medium-sized asphalt
Thanks
I kept the short arms that came with the 934. I'm hoping that by using the rest of the stock MS settings as a starting point, the car won't be too twitchy like mentioned above. I know it's going to transition wieght better side-to-side.
I'll see how it drives compared to my Kawada/Penguin chassis TA05R that has been so solid all summer for me. By the winter racing season, I should have this car dialed! Then next year maybe I'll be in a 416
Any set-yp tips for the short suspension arms would be greatly appreciated.
FYI:
13.5 BL / LiPo
CS27 / RP30
4.5 FD
medium-sized asphalt
Thanks
10-18-2007, 06:23 PM
#782
I've never tried those short arms before, so I too was wondering how it affects handling.
I think you won't have a problem with the car being too "twitchy", though. This car is extremely stable, but capable of turning on a dime when needed. redbones had to use 2 degree caster blocks, less rear toe in, a higher rear roll center, and more front inboard sweep to achieve the agility he desires.
I think you won't have a problem with the car being too "twitchy", though. This car is extremely stable, but capable of turning on a dime when needed. redbones had to use 2 degree caster blocks, less rear toe in, a higher rear roll center, and more front inboard sweep to achieve the agility he desires.
10-19-2007, 01:26 AM
#783
Originally Posted by Double Quattro
I just finished transforming my 934 kit into a TA05MS. All that I needed was the top and bottom decks and the longer front MS belt!
I kept the short arms that came with the 934. I'm hoping that by using the rest of the stock MS settings as a starting point, the car won't be too twitchy like mentioned above. I know it's going to transition wieght better side-to-side.
I'll see how it drives compared to my Kawada/Penguin chassis TA05R that has been so solid all summer for me. By the winter racing season, I should have this car dialed! Then next year maybe I'll be in a 416
Any set-yp tips for the short suspension arms would be greatly appreciated.
FYI:
13.5 BL / LiPo
CS27 / RP30
4.5 FD
medium-sized asphalt
Thanks
I kept the short arms that came with the 934. I'm hoping that by using the rest of the stock MS settings as a starting point, the car won't be too twitchy like mentioned above. I know it's going to transition wieght better side-to-side.
I'll see how it drives compared to my Kawada/Penguin chassis TA05R that has been so solid all summer for me. By the winter racing season, I should have this car dialed! Then next year maybe I'll be in a 416
Any set-yp tips for the short suspension arms would be greatly appreciated.
FYI:
13.5 BL / LiPo
CS27 / RP30
4.5 FD
medium-sized asphalt
Thanks
when i run the normal length LW arms. i run B/A suspension blocks up front with XB/D in the rear (3 deg of rear toe with 0 deg hubs.)
with the short arms, i recommend you run D/D up front with X/E in the rear. you'll have the same track width, but you'll notice the car transitions faster with the shorter EvoV arms.
ive also ran the EvoV arms with the B/A, XB/D suspension blocks then added 1mm spacers on the hubs. i couldnt tell those if there was a difference btw this set up, and the D/D, X/E set up.
- chris
10-19-2007, 09:13 AM
#784
Originally Posted by Hebiki
quattro....
when i run the normal length LW arms. i run B/A suspension blocks up front with XB/D in the rear (3 deg of rear toe with 0 deg hubs.)
with the short arms, i recommend you run D/D up front with X/E in the rear. you'll have the same track width, but you'll notice the car transitions faster with the shorter EvoV arms.
ive also ran the EvoV arms with the B/A, XB/D suspension blocks then added 1mm spacers on the hubs. i couldnt tell those if there was a difference btw this set up, and the D/D, X/E set up.
- chris
when i run the normal length LW arms. i run B/A suspension blocks up front with XB/D in the rear (3 deg of rear toe with 0 deg hubs.)
with the short arms, i recommend you run D/D up front with X/E in the rear. you'll have the same track width, but you'll notice the car transitions faster with the shorter EvoV arms.
ive also ran the EvoV arms with the B/A, XB/D suspension blocks then added 1mm spacers on the hubs. i couldnt tell those if there was a difference btw this set up, and the D/D, X/E set up.
- chris
I didn't realize the point was to remain at the same overall track width. Now that I know, I feel a little better about this set-up. The way I have it now the car is too narrow so I'll try the D/D - X/E configuration you run.
Cheers!
10-21-2007, 12:25 AM
#786
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
Hey guys, a little help here (I know that this question(s) was(were) asked before) but anyway, I want to know what are the things needed when I am going to change from one way to spool? Why do I need to buy aside from the spool? Thanks in advance.
10-21-2007, 01:29 AM
#787
Originally Posted by ittjv
You don't need anything else, unless you want to swap out your 48mm drive axles for some 46mm ones to reduce chatter.
10-21-2007, 02:46 AM
#788
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
what do I need if ever I am going to change to 46mm from 48mm drive axles? And they said that the steel something in the spool is not good, they are changing to to the plastic version. Forgot what they call it.
NOT YET SURE THOUGH
10-21-2007, 03:53 AM
#789
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
what do I need if ever I am going to change to 46mm from 48mm drive axles? And they said that the steel something in the spool is not good, they are changing to to the plastic version. Forgot what they call it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...&postcount=718
I've needed to make an small mod to the bearing holders, to make everything fit, check that post....
cheers,
al
11-01-2007, 10:20 AM
#794
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
What happened to this thread??? I found this way way far (5pages) from the first page and the other threads...
Nothing special. Some of the 17t carpet racing and i alredy won one club race and one big race i managed a-main 6th.
I just joy my MS ride.
11-02-2007, 12:38 AM
#795
Is the TA05 line the replacement for the TB line?
