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Old 08-09-2007, 09:12 AM   #301
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Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
I know what you mean, but is it not the same when the final ratio is the same?

No matter if it is a shaft drive, or a belt drive car ?

I thought the lower internal ratio is because of that the drivetrain spins more efficient (larger pulley, less friction).

Greetings Blueman

Yes the final is the same...what you are not understand is how quick or slow it will be reach...that is determine by the IR! The belt will determine the passes......less contact will always = equal less friction. Friction is base on contact.....More efficient is why they make Belt tension to stop belt hopping.......not contact. Tamiya has made wide pitch for less friction, less teeth on the pulley......"less contact." But this is marginal and has not proven big result in any event.

The easiest way for "you" to find out is take a Xray and what every else you are driving and Drag them.....tell us who get to the top end faster. I've done this so many times.....

Keep in mind about the "Ten Speed!"

you are the "final drive"

FDR 5.00 this is just your "Cap"
--------------- 2.25 to 1 IR Higher more work
___ ___ ___ ___ ___1.7 to 1 IR Lower less work


But believe what you want.....I have better my lap times and control the field with this conversion.......Not by the Final Drive for it has not change. Everyone always mention has much faster my cars are now.....



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Old 08-09-2007, 04:18 PM   #302
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Then wouldn't the 36t size wide pitch pulley have the same drag coefficient as an 18 teeth pulley?

Will this conversion kit from tech do any good?

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f55778182

Is that the reason why the JRXS type-Rs is so fast? Take a look at the pulley system on that.

Last edited by redbones; 08-09-2007 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 08-09-2007, 04:50 PM   #303
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hey guys, what alum suspension mount will I add at the rear and at the front to make it "0 degree" because right at the rear it has 3 degrees toe in but the front I don't know but I think it also has a degree, right?

So what should I get for the rear (1 sus mount only), and same goes with the front...
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Old 08-09-2007, 04:59 PM   #304
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xanavi, did you already replaced your center pulley to much larger pulley?
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:05 PM   #305
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Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34 View Post
hey guys, what alum suspension mount will I add at the rear and at the front to make it "0 degree" because right at the rear it has 3 degrees toe in but the front I don't know but I think it also has a degree, right?

So what should I get for the rear (1 sus mount only), and same goes with the front...
just duplicate what ever is the front/rear suspension block. use the same one in the rear/rear block. that way you'll have 0 deg toe in.

question, why do you want 0 deg toe in at the rear of your car? most people run at least 2deg of toe in.

front has B/A... which means you have 0.5deg of toe OUT on the front. if you change it to A/A.. it will be come 0 degs.

check the 415 thread.. there's a website for TryHard that will show you the different angles for the suspension blocks.
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:10 PM   #306
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hebiki, what is the good sarting point for front degree?
and i know the rear should be 2* to 3*

but in front i dont have any idea..
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:13 PM   #307
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Originally Posted by nikkiesteban View Post
hebiki, what is the good sarting point for front degree?
and i know the rear should be 2* to 3*

but in front i dont have any idea..
the TRF set ups ive seen usually runs 0.5deg toe out (B/A). so i usually run that, or 0 deg (A/A). ive ran B/XB with a spool also.... (+2 deg toe out). it really comes down to what you're comfortable with.
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:34 PM   #308
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the TRF set ups ive seen usually runs 0.5deg toe out (B/A). so i usually run that, or 0 deg (A/A). ive ran B/XB with a spool also.... (+2 deg toe out). it really comes down to what you're comfortable with.
thanks, i wil try first the .5* then from there i will move on if it doesnt feel good. thanks.

another i will be running 540 silver motor, i want to get the very top speed of the motor regardless the acceleration, what gearings should i use?
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Old 08-09-2007, 06:16 PM   #309
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Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34 View Post
hey guys, what alum suspension mount will I add at the rear and at the front to make it "0 degree" because right at the rear it has 3 degrees toe in but the front I don't know but I think it also has a degree, right?

So what should I get for the rear (1 sus mount only), and same goes with the front...
3" is just too much for me, 1.5 - 2" would do... but 0 will do too...

@nikki, Nope, I havent changed the center pulley to a wider one...
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Old 08-09-2007, 06:30 PM   #310
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3" is just too much for me, 1.5 - 2" would do... but 0 will do too...

@nikki, Nope, I havent changed the center pulley to a wider one...
ok thanks,. i will post pix when later when the package arrives.
i think its still sleeping in fedex station here in cabanatuan. hehehe
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:25 PM   #311
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Originally Posted by nikkiesteban View Post
thanks, i wil try first the .5* then from there i will move on if it doesnt feel good. thanks.

another i will be running 540 silver motor, i want to get the very top speed of the motor regardless the acceleration, what gearings should i use?
As a guideline for you, I ran a fresh silver can in my TA05R for a little while and a 6.4 (37 tooth pinion) FDR seemed to be about the limit in the local 85+ degree day time weather with 60% humidity. After running for about 5 minutes, the motor was very hot so I didn't try to use a pinion any larger.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:27 PM   #312
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ok thanks,. i will post pix when later when the package arrives.
i think its still sleeping in fedex station here in cabanatuan. hehehe
nice, nice... hahaha... Then wake them up by calling their place... hehehe...
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:30 PM   #313
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As a guideline for you, I ran a fresh silver can in my TA05R for a little while and a 6.4 (37 tooth pinion) FDR seemed to be about the limit in the local 85+ degree day time weather with 60% humidity. After running for about 5 minutes, the motor was very hot so I didn't try to use a pinion any larger.
i see.. u meant that i should use much smaller pinion so it won't heat as much?
how about the speed of your ta05r? is it fast/faster than other cars(using silver can also)?
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:34 PM   #314
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i see.. u meant that i should use much smaller pinion so it won't heat as much?
how about the speed of your ta05r? is it fast/faster than other cars(using silver can also)?
not really bro... Let's say you're going to race at the waltermart track, I think the FDR you should use is around 6.7 something... But to be more safer, try to start at around 6.9 then going down... This is your starting point... btw, this is for a 23t motor ha... Not stock...

You ask why??? because the straight in that track is not as long as what these people race on in international... But here at JP raceway, the FDR usually is around 6.4 - 6.0... Right you've been there already??? If yes, meaning to say you saw the stretch and the stretch is quite long compared to your HT... But if you are going to use stock motor in your 05ms, maybe your FDR should be at around 5.5 below...
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Last edited by Xanavi_R34; 08-09-2007 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:33 PM   #315
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not really bro... Let's say you're going to race at the waltermart track, I think the FDR you should use is around 6.7 something... But to be more safer, try to start at around 6.9 then going down... This is your starting point... btw, this is for a 23t motor ha... Not stock...

You ask why??? because the straight in that track is not as long as what these people race on in international... But here at JP raceway, the FDR usually is around 6.4 - 6.0... Right you've been there already??? If yes, meaning to say you saw the stretch and the stretch is quite long compared to your HT... But if you are going to use stock motor in your 05ms, maybe your FDR should be at around 5.5 below...
i see. i'm thinking of using the largest pinion like 51t and 105t spur.do you think it will make the car faster?
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