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Old 03-23-2007, 03:03 AM   #1
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Default Help with Droop Please ( David jun way)

Hi Guy's
Are any of you guy's cluded up on the David Jun Droop messuring procedure.
I need a little help

Okay
My tyres are sorex 36 R = 63.0mm
I half that = 31.5mm
add 2mm for the axle Total = 33.5mm
Minus height from Axle to base of set up board = 24.5mm
Difference between is 9.00mm
Minus ride height is Front 5.5/ droop total 3.5mm
rear ride height 6.0/ droop total is 3.0mm
I have disconnected my sway bars before starting this.
Is this correct please
Can some one please tell me If I am using the correct Jun method here, I have done as i have read and just wanted to make sure
Thanks
Addam
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:07 AM   #2
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Answered on the Aussie thread Addam
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:23 AM   #3
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That seems really long winded.

I measure mine by removing all the wheels, placing on a flat surface and measure to the top of the threaded part of the axle. Quick and easy and just as effective
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:31 AM   #4
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Thanks guy's
addam
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:20 AM   #5
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I set my ride height to 5mm. Tweak the car on the MIP Station. Put the car on your setup board and push down on the shock towers to get the car settled. Slide your ride height gauge under chassis just behind the wheel. If you want 2mm of droop, pull up on the shock tower on that side of the car and adjust the droop screw til the ride height gauge is reading 7mm.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:43 PM   #6
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I think the most simple and consistent way to measure droop is to simply measure the amount of chassis up travel before the wheels lift off the ground. This is how droop should be measured.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:13 PM   #7
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The most consistent and easily repeatable for me is the Jun method. When just lifting the chassis up over ride height and sliding your guage under the chassis, since there is slop in the suspension, how do you know when you are at the measurement you want? When you first see the slack taken out? When the slack is out and the tire actually comes off the ground? How do you make sure both sides are even?
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
Are any of you guy's cluded up on the David Jun Droop messuring procedure.
I need a little help

Okay
My tyres are sorex 36 R = 63.0mm
I half that = 31.5mm
add 2mm for the axle Total = 33.5mm
Minus height from Axle to base of set up board = 24.5mm
Difference between is 9.00mm
Minus ride height is Front 5.5/ droop total 3.5mm
rear ride height 6.0/ droop total is 3.0mm
I have disconnected my sway bars before starting this.
Is this correct please
Can some one please tell me If I am using the correct Jun method here, I have done as i have read and just wanted to make sure
Thanks
Addam
To use the Jun method, take off your tires, disconnect the sway bars, make sure your chassis is not tweaked, lay your chassis flat on your setup board and use a caliper to measure the height from the top of each axle to the setup board. A good starting point for the Tamiya 415 is 25mm for the rear axles and 24.6mm for the front axles. Use your droop screws to adjust your axle height up or down.

You can calculate all those measurements if you want, but at the end of the day, you are really just trying to make sure the front and rear rebound strokes are consistent on each side, once you know what the height of each axle should be for your cars setup, you can just do the measurements as directed above. Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
The most consistent and easily repeatable for me is the Jun method. When just lifting the chassis up over ride height and sliding your guage under the chassis, since there is slop in the suspension, how do you know when you are at the measurement you want? When you first see the slack taken out? When the slack is out and the tire actually comes off the ground? How do you make sure both sides are even?
I struggle with this too. If you only pull up until the suspension feels like it unloads, there's always another MM or two you could pull up that feels like slop. I struggle to get it even with this method, too, even though it feels and looks the same when I'm setting it.
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
The most consistent and easily repeatable for me is the Jun method. When just lifting the chassis up over ride height and sliding your guage under the chassis, since there is slop in the suspension, how do you know when you are at the measurement you want? When you first see the slack taken out? When the slack is out and the tire actually comes off the ground? How do you make sure both sides are even?
IMO, the slack isnt that important, because it will play a role in the suspension movement.

I use a simple ruler to measure upside movement till the wheels lift the ground. make the necessary adjustments to droop. After that i remove shocks and sway bars, and use blocks and gauge or caliper to make sure left and right are perfectelly even. I think this is the most important, because if the left and right side is different, it may cause the car to tilt to one side in corner entry (rear uneven) or accelleration (front uneven).
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
The most consistent and easily repeatable for me is the Jun method. When just lifting the chassis up over ride height and sliding your guage under the chassis, since there is slop in the suspension, how do you know when you are at the measurement you want? When you first see the slack taken out? When the slack is out and the tire actually comes off the ground? How do you make sure both sides are even?

1- back your droop screws out till they are not touching the chassis which is 0 droop.

2- set your ride height by marking your shock collars when they are backed out all the way then turn them the same amount left and right ,set camber and toe and check ride height as camber changes ride height.

3- put it on the tweak board.

4- check ride height again.

5- push down suspension so it will settle then add droop so that it is measured in millimeters with a ride height gage when you lift the chassis on one side. then using a hex wrench or a hobby knife lift the car at the center point of that end of the car and adjust droop so the other tire lifts off the board at the same time the first one that was measured.

6-put it back on the tweak board.

now you should have true droop regardless of the slop because when the car is driven the slop is still there.

I learned this from Mark Smyka
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Old 03-24-2007, 04:05 PM   #12
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Yes, you absolutely have to account for the slop. If you measure it without counting the slop, your droop could be off by a good mm or so.
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