12L4 or Carpet Knife?
#1

I cant afford the Gen X so Ill have to settle. Is the 3.2R and the 12L4 in the same Zip code?
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks

#3

i run the gen x but if you cant get it an L4 is just fine,you really dont have to do lots to make it work good, and the 3.2 if fine to
just get a car and have fun.
just get a car and have fun.
#4

Originally Posted by C_Heath
I cant afford the Gen X so Ill have to settle. Is the 3.2R and the 12L4 in the same Zip code?
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks


#5

Originally Posted by Marcos.J
12l4 with the BMI kit!!! 

thanks,
-Zac
#6
Tech Adept

Originally Posted by C_Heath
I cant afford the Gen X so Ill have to settle. Is the 3.2R and the 12L4 in the same Zip code?
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks
I hear something different from everyone. I hear that to be really close, the L4 needs lots of upgrades to be as competitive as the knife.
Please, Discuss
Thanks

#7

Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
hey marcos; how much is the bmi conversion? does it come with the pucks and the tubes? also if i broke a upper or lower pod plate (not sure how but...) would i be able to get a replacement?
thanks,
-Zac
thanks,
-Zac
#8

Originally Posted by insideline
Get the Knife... the L4 needs optional lowered pods to run tires low, thats a 40 dollar bill right there. Many of the recent 3.2R's came with the CRC's new shock, which is a big improvement over a stock VCS. Also, if you are buying a new kit, I think the L4 has no tires and the CRC has Purple and grey compound tires in it.
ok just get the crc car stock its much better.
#9
Tech Regular

not that iwant to start a t-bar vs link car arguement try both and get the car you prefer the handling of.
For thoses starting
The t-bar is usually easier to drive as it generally produces less steering than the link cars and in generaly easier to learn with. Some drivers like a lot of steering and will, benefit from the link cars such as the carpet knife.
The best t bar car for carpet is the l4, you can buy thecrc t-force with the thick chassis which is good for out doors, but many driver don't like it indoors. I find it good on indoor carpet events as it makes the car understeer which i like.
For thoses starting
The t-bar is usually easier to drive as it generally produces less steering than the link cars and in generaly easier to learn with. Some drivers like a lot of steering and will, benefit from the link cars such as the carpet knife.
The best t bar car for carpet is the l4, you can buy thecrc t-force with the thick chassis which is good for out doors, but many driver don't like it indoors. I find it good on indoor carpet events as it makes the car understeer which i like.
#10

Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
not that iwant to start a t-bar vs link car arguement try both and get the car you prefer the handling of.
For thoses starting
The t-bar is usually easier to drive as it generally produces less steering than the link cars and in generaly easier to learn with. Some drivers like a lot of steering and will, benefit from the link cars such as the carpet knife.
The best t bar car for carpet is the l4, you can buy thecrc t-force with the thick chassis which is good for out doors, but many driver don't like it indoors. I find it good on indoor carpet events as it makes the car understeer which i like.
For thoses starting
The t-bar is usually easier to drive as it generally produces less steering than the link cars and in generaly easier to learn with. Some drivers like a lot of steering and will, benefit from the link cars such as the carpet knife.
The best t bar car for carpet is the l4, you can buy thecrc t-force with the thick chassis which is good for out doors, but many driver don't like it indoors. I find it good on indoor carpet events as it makes the car understeer which i like.
#12

I have both cars and I do like them both, but. After buying and building the 3.2 I would have to say hands down bang for the buck the 3.2 is the way to go. With the 12L4 I ended up purchasing a few items that were “temperamental” or a pain to use, also the 12L4 kit lacks some items that are necessary to run the car. So if you take into account these items to purchase you are pretty much at the 3.2R kit price if not a bit more. Also you might be able to find a local dealer who is blowing out the 3.2's for a sweet deal so they can start selling the Gen-X (that is how I got mine).
- Front axels with threads instead of the c-clip, standard on the 3.2 have to buy aftermarket on the 12l4.
- Aluminum rear pod bulk head sections for both sides (with a heat sink style on the motor plate bulk head). The 12L4 has a flat aluminum bulk head for the motor plate and a “graphite” (I call it plastic) one for the other side.
- VCS shock. The 12L4 comes with the annoying plastic clipped shock that and small bump into a rail, another car, hell breathing to heavily on it will pop it apart and your done for that session or race.
Lacking items:
- It also comes with a decent set of carpet tires. The 12L4 you got to pony up for some Jaco’s or what not.
- Not that this item is much money but it is a pain to find out build your self: It comes with a tool that is thin enough to adjust the camber on the front end
Also on a driving note. The 12L4 took me a bit to get it working well on carpet and asphalt. But the 3.2R I built it, installed the electronics, set the shock, set the tweak, slapped it on the carpet track and it was on rails. No fine tune adjustments, no head scratching trying to figure out how to make the car work the way I need it to work, it just ran flawlessly. On another note, my local track opened up the asphalt track again (were having good warm weather right now got to love CA). So for giggles I changed tires and plopped it on the track with out any changes. Perfect ran great no problems. Got to give it up to this car, it’s off the hook!!
- Front axels with threads instead of the c-clip, standard on the 3.2 have to buy aftermarket on the 12l4.
- Aluminum rear pod bulk head sections for both sides (with a heat sink style on the motor plate bulk head). The 12L4 has a flat aluminum bulk head for the motor plate and a “graphite” (I call it plastic) one for the other side.
- VCS shock. The 12L4 comes with the annoying plastic clipped shock that and small bump into a rail, another car, hell breathing to heavily on it will pop it apart and your done for that session or race.
Lacking items:
- It also comes with a decent set of carpet tires. The 12L4 you got to pony up for some Jaco’s or what not.
- Not that this item is much money but it is a pain to find out build your self: It comes with a tool that is thin enough to adjust the camber on the front end
Also on a driving note. The 12L4 took me a bit to get it working well on carpet and asphalt. But the 3.2R I built it, installed the electronics, set the shock, set the tweak, slapped it on the carpet track and it was on rails. No fine tune adjustments, no head scratching trying to figure out how to make the car work the way I need it to work, it just ran flawlessly. On another note, my local track opened up the asphalt track again (were having good warm weather right now got to love CA). So for giggles I changed tires and plopped it on the track with out any changes. Perfect ran great no problems. Got to give it up to this car, it’s off the hook!!
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)

in general the tbar style cars have less tuning adjustments available and the ones there are make pretty subtle changes to the feel and handling of the car. On the bright side....the tbar cars work pretty well as they come and so it's not so hard to get a decent setup and start getting good results.....especially for somebody new to 1/12th scale. By contrast, the side spring cars have more tuning adjustments possible and they each make a more dramatic change to the way the car drives. This is good to have such adjustability which directly effects the car's behavior. But the down side to such tuneability is that it's not all that hard to get "out of bounds" with the setup and to make the car quite difficult to handle. Having said all that, both styles work great when carefully assembled according to their respective instruction manuals and setup according to their manufacturer's reccomendations and posted team-driver setups. With all 1/12th scale cars, attention to detail is very very important. I'd suggest choosing the car that the most successful, experienced, and especially the most friendly and helpful racer(s) in your area use. That way, you can easily ask for assistance and get better answers to your questions at the track. Most venues have experienced racers who will be happy to help you get comfortable with your new car and with its setup. All you gotta do is be friendly and ask questions. It's good for everybody when new people join in and especially when they can quickly get up to speed so that they can get full enjoyment from their participation. These days there's lots of compedative 1/12th scale cars out there. You can't really go wrong with any of the CRC cars. None of them require extra cost upgrade goodies. Especially the red edition cars.......they each come with "all the right stuff" in the box.....even good race tires. Upgrade parts not necessary. Happy motoring!!!!