Mike Schumacher

iTrader: (36)

Let's share your thoughts here. I've seen some people did very nice job on their graphite chassis edge. Round and shiny.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Check out Hodge's technique he showed on TL.com. It's really well done

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

Here's a good article....

One KEY to do is.... after you've done all your sanding.. GET A BLACK SHARPIE and black out the edges. (BLACK SHOE POLISH WORKS GREAT TOO)This will create a black high polished look you'll love!

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=16

Good Luck!

KHoff7

iTrader: (4)

to ca it put thin ca on a qtip and run the soaked q tip along the edge for no drips

c1 racin

iTrader: (8)

Wal-mart - Kmart and many other stores like those two sell Loctite Super Glue and/or Krazy Glue that comes in a small bottle with a "Brush-0n" tip. It's like a finger nail brush in the bottle. Dosen't get any better that than...

Mike Schumacher

iTrader: (36)

Someone suggests me to sand the edge under running water... a good idea? I think the fiber will absorb the water and then the moist will keep inside after CA. Am I right?

Todd Hodge's tips is a great help.

http://www.teamlosi.com/jrxs-page/trick%20tip%20pg3.htm

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

Wet sanding does work fine. But I don't do it under running water.... I put water on the sand paper/emery cloth.

I Never use a Q-tip --- it will not come out smoooooth.( except on the battery slots) Use the Drip Method and use gravity to let the CA drip around the edges.

Use thin CA as it is less viscous and will work best for the method we use to get the glue all the way around the edge of the chassis.

Holding the chassis up near eye level, drop a healthy bead of CA on the top corner of the chassis. Keep the chassis perpendicular to the ground at all times. Let the bead of glue run slowly down the length of the chassis. Roll the chassis so that gravity can do its best to pull the glue along. Add more glue just above the bead when needed (i.e. the glue is used up as it coats the edge of the chassis). Continue along until the entire chassis edge is coated. Figure 6 shows the bead of glue after it has ran down one side of the chassis. At this point we rotated the chassis so it would run down the front side. Try to rotate the chassis in a nice smooth gradual manner and try and keep the bead moving. If the bead runs off onto the front or back of the chassis just wipe it off with a damp cloth as soon as it runs off. Try and keep the chassis perpendicular to the ground and avoid any 'run off'.

Mike Schumacher

iTrader: (36)

tbreadmore, thanks for the input.

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

Your Welcome Mike.... The "Drip Method" has produced the best results I have ever tried.

Read this... if you haven't already... and DON'T forget the SHARPIE or SHOE POLISH (final step before the CA)

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=16

Speedie

I sand the edges first with 280 grit paper so its smooth and has a slight curve to it. Then I usually use 3 to 5 coats of glue on the edges sanding with 600 grit between coats. After sanding the final coat smooth I go over it with a super fine steel wool. Then I polish it with mothers polish. Turns out smooth and like glass. Takes some time doing it like that but its worth it to me.

MrBlack

If your careful you can use a rotary tool (my preffered method) to sand the edges because of the heat created by the rotary tool and the fiberglass containing so much epoxy its both sands and cures the edge in one step. This leaves the eges better sealed and then I use a Q-tip to apply the CA swithching it out often and it looks very smooth it done correctly. Too much CA on the edges and it can chip off pulling chassis materials with it.

Sedanfahrer

iTrader: (21)

I use the sharpie and "drip method" and have very good results! I tried with the Q-tip, but I think the finish with this method is not as good (at least for me).

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I'm with Speedie on this one. It is time consuming but the finish is mirror smooth