Servo,Speedcontrol,transponder lead shortening
03-16-2007, 08:56 PM
#1
Servo,Speedcontrol,transponder lead shortening
I've noticed more and more lately that guys are willing to shorten the leads of servos, speedcontrols and transponders. Now these pieces of equipment aren't cheap, so any surgery thats performed on them is a risky thing. But as someone who is now a dedicated brushless runner, and a fanatic wiring neat freak, I'm interested in finding out what guys are doing to shorten these leads.(oh, and I'm not interested in shortening the sensor wires for the brushless motors, so you don't even have to cover that.)
In particular:
-Where are you shortening them at? Cutting them at the lead or unsoldering, then resoldering them at the circuit board.
-Since I'll assume that most people are shortening them at the lead end, then my next question is, how are you guys reattaching them to those damned annoy tiny leads that plug into the reciever? Are you simply soldering them back to the metal lead, or are you somehow unclamping the wires and the reclamping them like from the factory?
-Lastly, what do you guys do if you find that you need to lengthen them again? I know this isn't likely with cars having less and less space to work with. But there are still some cases where longer leads are needed. So what do you guys do if you switch to those, just buy a new servo, speedo, or transponder? Buy an extention cable?
I'd definitely like to hear from any one who has been brave enough to do this shortening to their high dollar equipment. But any thoughts about this are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
-Darkseid
In particular:
-Where are you shortening them at? Cutting them at the lead or unsoldering, then resoldering them at the circuit board.
-Since I'll assume that most people are shortening them at the lead end, then my next question is, how are you guys reattaching them to those damned annoy tiny leads that plug into the reciever? Are you simply soldering them back to the metal lead, or are you somehow unclamping the wires and the reclamping them like from the factory?
-Lastly, what do you guys do if you find that you need to lengthen them again? I know this isn't likely with cars having less and less space to work with. But there are still some cases where longer leads are needed. So what do you guys do if you switch to those, just buy a new servo, speedo, or transponder? Buy an extention cable?
I'd definitely like to hear from any one who has been brave enough to do this shortening to their high dollar equipment. But any thoughts about this are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
-Darkseid
03-16-2007, 09:12 PM
#2
If you shoten those wires/leads you have to get a new Futaba, sanwa, hitec plugs etc. Because if you re-use those it will be loose.
I don't see any harm on shortening your wires I've tired it and I didn't notice any drop in performance.
Also one way to make your electronics wiring nice and neat is used a black shrink tubing this way you don't have to cut those wires.
I don't see any harm on shortening your wires I've tired it and I didn't notice any drop in performance.
Also one way to make your electronics wiring nice and neat is used a black shrink tubing this way you don't have to cut those wires.
03-16-2007, 09:36 PM
#3
Done all three ways...
I've reused the plugs(pin end), even managed to pry open the crimped part and recrimp. Shortened in the middle and used heat shrink; quick fix; repair a damaged cable. Also soldered cable on the servo end on the circuit board (shorted out wire, melted the covering, "borrowed" a new wire from a crappy old std servo. No issues with any of them!... Just got to becareful thats all.... If you are not confident at it; get someone else to do it...
03-16-2007, 09:56 PM
#4
you can buy futaba male J connectors and buy or borrow a crimper to shorten the leads 
just cut off the end near the plug to whatever length you need, then attach the metal thingies, crimp them on each wire, then plug them into the plastic J connector.
futaba connectors and wire crimper
if you need to lengthen them again for another installation, you can do any of the ff:
1. easiest, use servo extensions. you can make them out of a set of male and female connectors, a length of servo wire, and the crimper. or you can buy them ready made, but they may be too long for your application, because most servo extensions are at least 6" long.
2. a bit more difficult, cut the wires in half, and solder in an extension, heatshrink on both ends of the solder points.
3. most difficult and risky, desolder the shortened leads at the circuit board, and solder new longer leads.
hope this helps
just cut off the end near the plug to whatever length you need, then attach the metal thingies, crimp them on each wire, then plug them into the plastic J connector.futaba connectors and wire crimper
if you need to lengthen them again for another installation, you can do any of the ff:
1. easiest, use servo extensions. you can make them out of a set of male and female connectors, a length of servo wire, and the crimper. or you can buy them ready made, but they may be too long for your application, because most servo extensions are at least 6" long.
2. a bit more difficult, cut the wires in half, and solder in an extension, heatshrink on both ends of the solder points.
3. most difficult and risky, desolder the shortened leads at the circuit board, and solder new longer leads.
hope this helps
03-16-2007, 10:26 PM
#5
I have become a pro at using the above crimping tool and metal replacement tabs. I cut my wire to length and then use a new plastic connector with three new metal tabs. Make sure and use te crimping tool shown though. I tried it countless times without and never was satisfied with the results. When the time comes to lengthen them I desolder at the circuit board and then reattach the correct lenght lead. It is especially easy on futaba servos (one of the reasons I like the 9550) as the part of the board where the three leads attach is at the edge of the board just inside the case where the wires enter. Its not too difficult if you have a nice iron with adj temp and a needle like tip. For the esc I jsut wrap it up as the cases are not as simple to get on and off as servo cases are with thier screws and rubber o-rings. Plus most escs now days are double deck boards and sometimes the wires terminate in between the two decks in the most inconveneint place.
I also thought I'd mention I cut my transponder leads short and hard wired it to the board on my servo. I wanted to run a fan, a spectrum cap, a PT a servo, and my esc but ran out of plugs. I canb't tell a difference in my servo speed and I have yet to get a glitch or have my pt miss a lap. I have been runnig my car this way weekly for the last 8 months with a sphere comp, orion 4800, spectrum micro rec, spectrum cap, and an original amb pt. Just fyi
I also thought I'd mention I cut my transponder leads short and hard wired it to the board on my servo. I wanted to run a fan, a spectrum cap, a PT a servo, and my esc but ran out of plugs. I canb't tell a difference in my servo speed and I have yet to get a glitch or have my pt miss a lap. I have been runnig my car this way weekly for the last 8 months with a sphere comp, orion 4800, spectrum micro rec, spectrum cap, and an original amb pt. Just fyi
03-16-2007, 10:35 PM
#6
Tech Adept
pictures pls
03-16-2007, 10:42 PM
#7
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I have become a pro at using the above crimping tool and metal replacement tabs. I cut my wire to length and then use a new plastic connector with three new metal tabs. Make sure and use te crimping tool shown though. I tried it countless times without and never was satisfied with the results. When the time comes to lengthen them I desolder at the circuit board and then reattach the correct lenght lead. It is especially easy on futaba servos (one of the reasons I like the 9550) as the part of the board where the three leads attach is at the edge of the board just inside the case where the wires enter. Its not too difficult if you have a nice iron with adj temp and a needle like tip. For the esc I jsut wrap it up as the cases are not as simple to get on and off as servo cases are with thier screws and rubber o-rings. Plus most escs now days are double deck boards and sometimes the wires terminate in between the two decks in the most inconveneint place.
I also thought I'd mention I cut my transponder leads short and hard wired it to the board on my servo. I wanted to run a fan, a spectrum cap, a PT a servo, and my esc but ran out of plugs. I canb't tell a difference in my servo speed and I have yet to get a glitch or have my pt miss a lap. I have been runnig my car this way weekly for the last 8 months with a sphere comp, orion 4800, spectrum micro rec, spectrum cap, and an original amb pt. Just fyi
I also thought I'd mention I cut my transponder leads short and hard wired it to the board on my servo. I wanted to run a fan, a spectrum cap, a PT a servo, and my esc but ran out of plugs. I canb't tell a difference in my servo speed and I have yet to get a glitch or have my pt miss a lap. I have been runnig my car this way weekly for the last 8 months with a sphere comp, orion 4800, spectrum micro rec, spectrum cap, and an original amb pt. Just fyi
03-16-2007, 10:44 PM
#8
That's a great trick with the 9550, since it's shorter anyway, you can mount the transponder to the back without fear of it not fitting somewhere. That's where I hide mine currently. If it doesn't hurt the performance of either, I'm gonna try it. Do you just run the wires inside the servo through the grommet the normal wires come out of? I agree, pics please.
03-16-2007, 10:53 PM
#9
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL300&P=7
I may need to get a crimper and get into the business of making custom leads for my stuff. I really get sick of having wires everywhere that are longer than I need. I just wish someone would make a short wire harness for brushless motors that have removable plugs. That alone would lead me to try the Orion or LRP motors.
I may need to get a crimper and get into the business of making custom leads for my stuff. I really get sick of having wires everywhere that are longer than I need. I just wish someone would make a short wire harness for brushless motors that have removable plugs. That alone would lead me to try the Orion or LRP motors.
03-17-2007, 01:11 AM
#11
i just do this
if you take the pins out of the plastic thingy you can put them back with no probs if you want.
if you take the pins out of the plastic thingy you can put them back with no probs if you want.
03-17-2007, 08:15 AM
#12
As I set up my RDX for the first time, I have also found excess the wiring to annoying. I have a brand new not yet even powered up 9550 servo. Be aware that removing the cover to get to the solder points is just the first step. There was a big drop of silicone rubber encasing the entire area. It takes awhile to pick/cut it off using an xacto knife and a little denatured alcohol to clean it, but it's done.
03-17-2007, 08:32 AM
#13
Great responses guys. Special thanks to marvi for the link.
I'm about to get a servo from a buddy that already has the wires shortened. But that ones for my new car. The wiring on my current car is a little bulkier than I'd like, so I think I might try shortening some wires on it.
Thanks again guys for the responses.
-Darkseid
I'm about to get a servo from a buddy that already has the wires shortened. But that ones for my new car. The wiring on my current car is a little bulkier than I'd like, so I think I might try shortening some wires on it.
Thanks again guys for the responses.
-Darkseid
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