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Old 03-22-2007, 03:28 PM   #181
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Mr Black - has there been lobbying to ROAR and other controlling bodies to get "hard cased" LiPo packs approved? Any progress?
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:00 PM   #182
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RTolle

I dont believe you have to let Lipos cool before charging, they actually cool while charging.

MrBlack can probaly clarify this.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:11 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterD
great response Mr. Black.... and yes I do get the point. Or8ital when you mentioned that NiMh were faster I was thinking more like .5 or so.....I didn't think the difference was that small.

Hypothetically...........lets say I sold all of my NiMh stuff, I sold about a dozen NiMh 4200 packs, my Turbo 35 GFX, my trinity discharger, my overpriced battery case (lol), and a bunch of little misc stuff like a soldering iron, deans battery bars, flux......etc.

I want to make the jump to LiPo, and i know the when connecting wires that red goes to red and black goes to black. ( I mean i'm not a knucklehead but this would be new to me so bear with me ) To be the safest, and most cost effecient, what would anyone recommend I invest my hard earned dollars into? What's a good starting point with a fairly low learning curve? Keep in mind that I would need everything, because as of right now i have no go juice.

Darren
If you are by yourself:

I would recommend a good charger (it should be CCCV capable and be able to charge your cells at close to 1C (1A per every 1000mAh capacity and a volt meter.

A volt meter because it can be used for other purposes and unless your batteries go out of balance you will never need a balancer but running electric there many uses for a volt meter.

If your in a club:

All of the above but share a balancer as it is rarely used and if so just needed for seconds at a time.

Really that is it I know it sounds crazy and everyone thinks I have an agenda but to be honest my agenda is only to develop and bring out products that bring more people into our Hobby.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:12 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve B
RTolle

I dont believe you have to let Lipos cool before charging, they actually cool while charging.

MrBlack can probaly clarify this.
This is true as long as they are not sitting on a heat source or in the sun they will actually cool as they charge as if they are sitting idle.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:17 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0adrunn3r
Mr Black - has there been lobbying to ROAR and other controlling bodies to get "hard cased" LiPo packs approved? Any progress?
Contrary to what most people think ROAR does answer to the manufacturers at least not our attempts anyway LOL!

They know the product is out there and they now the benefits, but they have to be the one's to decide what they want to promote. We can submit products howerver I have been told that they currently do not have a category for us to even submit a LiPo battery and this is something that is being looked into.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:20 PM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
Contrary to what most people think ROAR does answer to the manufacturers at least not our attempts anyway LOL!

They know the product is out there and they now the benefits, but they have to be the one's to decide what they want to promote. We can submit products howerver I have been told that they currently do not have a category for us to even submit a LiPo battery and this is something that is being looked into.
What do you mean by category? Are you talking about the LiPo not being a sub C in shape?
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:33 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0adrunn3r
What do you mean by category? Are you talking about the LiPo not being a sub C in shape?
I am not sure what it was exactly as i was not the contact with ROAR. I think it had somethign to do also with cell count as well as cell shape. We could make a Lipo that is shaped just like a Sub C cell but it will not perform as well and the cost will go way up as "we would be putting wings on a boat rather them building a plane."
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:44 PM   #188
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There's a class of things that are good for the sport.
There's a class of things that ROAR is considering.
Those two classes do not share any members.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:50 PM   #189
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Last edited by or8ital; 03-25-2007 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:24 PM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
I am not sure what it was exactly as i was not the contact with ROAR. I think it had somethign to do also with cell count as well as cell shape. We could make a Lipo that is shaped just like a Sub C cell but it will not perform as well and the cost will go way up as "we would be putting wings on a boat rather them building a plane."
Shape?
Surely it should be based on the overall footprint (i.e. the dimensions) of the pack. If it has the same footprint as a sub C based pack. Not the actual cell shape.

Cell count?
I don't understand this one... I could understand Voltage under load (i.e. the performance) of the pack.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:56 PM   #191
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Default Lipo pack died

Well I just recently lost a lipo pack. I was running offroad and a 15 min main. The pack was well over 1 year old. It was an 8000 and puffed at the end of a race. Took it out and in a safe place. In about 15 mins it cooled back down. Guess what no boom flames or anything like that.

It was very noticable when I think I lost the cell and the other cells could not keep up. The pack came out of a corner and felt like it might be dumping. Went into next corner and same feel. Pulled it off and it was puffed. (Not extremely bad but deffinately puffed.

Took the pack apart later - Looks like I lost a tab from one cell. This was an offroad pack and I have a lot of runs on this pack. Probably average 1hour time every other weekend. Swelling went back down but I will not use a pack once it has swelled. Saftey is the reason I refuse to use a cell once it is puffed. And I do not salvage cells from a pack. It is a unit and should stay that way in my opinion.

So for fun and some more experimenting I put some charge back in it. About 2000 mah. It was not toatlly dead. Then set up a rig to put a hole in the cells. All I got was some smoke and a bad smell. Let them sit for about 15 mins. Then I soaked them so I could dispose of them.
No flames or anything that looked cool. My wifes cigarretes put out more smoke.

Packs are evolving and they are not the same as they were 2+yeasrs ago. They still need respect but they are not going to just go up on thier own. If you buy quality packs then you will have less issues.


price wise - $140 for lipo. Great power and runtime. Average that for 6 packs over a year that would not have been near as good at $40 and that is $240.
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Old 03-22-2007, 06:01 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nichocgn
Then I soaked them so I could dispose of them.
What did you soak the pack in before disposal? Salty water
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:54 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTolle

Lipo's still need to be allowed time to cool before charging.
No they absolutely don't need to be allowed to cool before charging.

In fact, they cool down as they charge. We've run them 3-4 cycles back-to-back in enduros and they come out of the car slightly warm after 13-15 minutes and they're cool to the touch after 15-20 minutes of charging at 1C.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:00 PM   #194
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do you think they will make lipo for 1/12
that would be fun.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:43 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
do you think they will make lipo for 1/12
that would be fun.
I do not support these as they are not in a case... But that is not for me to decide....

http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=54
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