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Old 08-03-2007, 09:47 AM   #31
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Me and my friends all use Maxamps 6000mah lipos in our mod class or almost 1 year now without issues...

Only problems is that the solder inbetween the cells has come off on some and required resoldering.

We have used them with so far novak 5.5, 4.5, 3.5 and currently with mamba max 7700.

But I have never gotten more then 10mins out of a pack. how do you guys get up to 20-30mins out of a battery using a mod motor.

Maybe Im geared too low? Who knows, but works fine for 5min heats. Also I read that u are not meant to discharge them as they do not have a memory effect. Is this correct or do they required to be discharged.

Cheers
30-40 mins ? I don't believe that someone can get more than 10-12 min with a mod motor.With a mamba max 7700 i have maximum 12 minutes runtime.And after a 5 min run the battery is hot about 55 C .
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:10 AM   #32
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Born to run, hate to burst your bubble, but I run with the 3.5 Novak and have been getting an average of 30 minutes...EASILY. Look at my posts for like the last year and I have been saying this. I race with nitros and what gives me the upper hand is the ability for this pack to give me excellent run time out the gate. They key is, dont gear like a retard (medium to large track does not need a final drive of 8.75 for example). As long as one gears properly with the lower winds and keeps tab on the temps (batts, motor and ESC), 20-25 minute run times should be easy to attain. I guess thats why Maxamps packs have been the pack of choice for the 24 hour enduros in California.......
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Old 08-03-2007, 11:28 AM   #33
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:46 PM   #34
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nothing against lipo or max amps or any of the other battery companies but when someone tells me that lipos are safe and its hard to get them to blow, then i click on a web site that shows a "lipo sack" and it says its a MUST for charging lipos in case they catch fire, then show a video of them catching fire with and without the "lipo sack". well you get my meaning, i know i know, you can never be to safe and i've seen 'regular batteries blow also, but i think telling everyone its hard to do, and don't worry about it, is wrong, just be safe about it, and pay attention to what is going on with and around the batteries you will be safer then not doing it. btw, i fly heli's, so i have plenty of lipos, different sizes, and voltages, and amp rating, i've seen them blow in a crash, i have also seen a rc car lipo blow in a T bone hit from another car. so it can happen.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:10 PM   #35
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Syndrome, marcosj, Un4racing, I think these are three gentlemen that have seen me post this story I dont know how many times but here it goes. I was laying it out in the street, my pro4 got run over by a regular car....shock towers mangled, body crushed, blasted shocks. The battery didnt even swell, and is still in use to this day. if under the pressure of a REGULAR car it didnt blow, then well....there is no convincing you. Li-po sacks and all of this other stuff is for people that want to charge at like a cagillion amps. Youtube vids of people overcharging on purpose, if that deters you, check the thread of the guy who had a bunch of sub 'c explode and pop off in his carrying case. if you are that scary, stick with sub c. Remember, li-po, if abused, burns in place, sub c's vents and explode.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:25 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
nothing against lipo or max amps or any of the other battery companies but when someone tells me that lipos are safe and its hard to get them to blow, then i click on a web site that shows a "lipo sack" and it says its a MUST for charging lipos in case they catch fire, then show a video of them catching fire with and without the "lipo sack". well you get my meaning, i know i know, you can never be to safe and i've seen 'regular batteries blow also, but i think telling everyone its hard to do, and don't worry about it, is wrong, just be safe about it, and pay attention to what is going on with and around the batteries you will be safer then not doing it. btw, i fly heli's, so i have plenty of lipos, different sizes, and voltages, and amp rating, i've seen them blow in a crash, i have also seen a rc car lipo blow in a T bone hit from another car. so it can happen.
Yes you have to do the right thing with lipos. Of course they aren't perfectly safe and errors can be made and bad things can happen. But I am not going to be frightened away by a video on liposack's website showing what can happen if I don't use their product. It's called marketing. Have you noticed in a lot of the scary lipo videos they attach the battery leads to the charger using wire nuts? That's so no matter what happens the charger will keep pumping juice into it to guarantee a nice little fire.

Be right back, I have a can of gasoline, a lighter and a video camera - I need to put something up on youtube to keep people from driving in an unsafe contraption that could burst into flames at any moment.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:39 PM   #37
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All this crap is your usual propaganda BS. It's all about protecting an agenda. Be it sub-c sales, blast canisters, and whatever else there is. The only thing proven is you get what you pay for and there's always an idiot that will crack the idiot proof. You basic facts of life. Let the blind lead the blind and let the narrow minded stay narrow. The rest of us should just enjoy the technology and laugh.
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:53 PM   #38
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All this crap is your usual propaganda BS. It's all about protecting an agenda. Be it sub-c sales, blast canisters, and whatever else there is. The only thing proven is you get what you pay for and there's always an idiot that will crack the idiot proof. You basic facts of life. Let the blind lead the blind and let the narrow minded stay narrow. The rest of us should just enjoy the technology and laugh.
And keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Mines better than yours.

Like you say, the difference is like a 50,000 mile tire vs. a 25,000 mile tire.
No one is going to deliberately blow a pack. Yet its going to happen.
You get what you pay for. When it blows it wont be because its cheap.!

I try to only comment on what I've experienced. The 6000's are a fine battery and I have not had any issues. They are just as good as the Orions as far as performance. The difference is that Orion has taken on the roll of educating any and all who run lipo. Most fear the liability and transparency of there products. Which may some day bite them in the butt. And my self.? As new as the market is I wouldn't want any one to know where the deals are either.

My hats off to Orion and even those other companies like Max Amps that are trying to open the market with lower cost and reliability.
As long as people run around saying cheap is bad and on and on, they are causing just as much resistance as the sub-c suppliers. Its the same as saying theres resistance from with in. I cant believe all the lipo users that are dogging the cheap ones saying its them that are causing the resistance. Let lipo use grow by buying what you can afford at let it all fall into place. If a manufacturer is bad he will fade out just like any other.
I know for fact there are some cheapos out there, and they are ripping up the track just the same as any high dollar ones.
Kinda like a non matched stick pack for 25.00.
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:53 PM   #39
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Born to run, hate to burst your bubble, but I run with the 3.5 Novak and have been getting an average of 30 minutes...EASILY. Look at my posts for like the last year and I have been saying this. I race with nitros and what gives me the upper hand is the ability for this pack to give me excellent run time out the gate. They key is, dont gear like a retard (medium to large track does not need a final drive of 8.75 for example). As long as one gears properly with the lower winds and keeps tab on the temps (batts, motor and ESC), 20-25 minute run times should be easy to attain. I guess thats why Maxamps packs have been the pack of choice for the 24 hour enduros in California.......
bxpitbull my final drive is 8.21-7.51.Do you think im geared to high for a large-medium track? Other guys on 5cells Nimh with 3.5 motors are geared about 6.5 for the same track,so im asking for your opinion.I have to tell you that i use the 6000 maxamps for 4 months only.I charged them always with a Robitronic overloader (almost the same with the ICE) for 1C and i used an Horizon balancer in every charge.Lipo cutoff on the MM speedo was set on 6.2v .For the first month i had runtimes about 18-20mins but after the first month the runtime reduced to 10-12mins,the batteries puffed and they are getting so hot (almost 55 C') so i use them only for 5 mins.I leave them cool down for half an hour and i can run other 5 minutes more and thats all.This is the total runtime i can have with these lipos.Far away from the 20 mins i was getting the first months.Now,when i star to charge them i see the voltage is starting from 7,7 volts and i can't get a capacity more than 4500mAmp.I know that my batteries are almost dead but unfortunately i can't buy the maxamps anymore.Those three packs i have got from ebay for 75$ each plus 12$ for shipping to my country.Now maxamps doesn't sell them from ebay anymore but from his online store for 99.99$ and they charge 42$ about for shipping at least to my country.No way.At 123$ i can get the Orion Platinum plus shipping from HK and it cost me less.I dont have anything against maxamps.Maybe i had bad lucky with my packs,maybe i did something wrong but unfortunately i can't buy them anymore as i said.:-(
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:02 PM   #40
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The retard wasnt directed at you, more at the guys who thermal and wonder why....being overgeared usually being the culprit. Less cells and they are geared at 6 and change. If you are running with 5 cell guys, theres part of the problem. They are pushing less volts, so their electronics arent taking such a beating. Wait a tick, are you running with 5 cells or you have noticed their set-ups?? Is it the type of car? Your other problem is efficiency. I know I am going to get flamed, but sensorless is an amp/watt/voltage hog. Get yourself a Novak, 3.5, I dont know what your car is, but gear it in the mid 9's.....BIG DIFFERENCE. Sensored is much more efficient at 7.4 volts. FYI, Mamba/7700 run safe between 180-200...thats heavy amp draw. Novak runs safe(nominal) up to 170-180...then you have to think of thermalling. If your motor is running hotter, its pulling harder than your battery can feed it, ergo, reduced run times. Dont be afraid to get a 3racing heatsink w/fan to put on the motor to keep the temps in check. Cooler motor usually results in better run times.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:03 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bxpitbull View Post
Born to run, hate to burst your bubble, but I run with the 3.5 Novak and have been getting an average of 30 minutes...EASILY. Look at my posts for like the last year and I have been saying this. I race with nitros and what gives me the upper hand is the ability for this pack to give me excellent run time out the gate. They key is, dont gear like a retard (medium to large track does not need a final drive of 8.75 for example). As long as one gears properly with the lower winds and keeps tab on the temps (batts, motor and ESC), 20-25 minute run times should be easy to attain. I guess thats why Maxamps packs have been the pack of choice for the 24 hour enduros in California.......
Word. You know what I like about you.?
You keep it real.
6000's, and now 8000 mah's 7.4.
Orion had better get those 6000's out the door.


I'm having great success with the 6000's. 4300 and 5800 easy 20 and 30 minute runs.
The trick is, "gear to run" thats how you put it right. As long as you don't over gear and try to push the motor over its threshold or performance range. 120 to 140 degrees. (Sweet spot) Lipos run all day. Max Amps are good for that. Don't need them but I will end up with some 8000's.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:06 PM   #42
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I have yet to see anything on these threads that you have said that I have disagreed with. Heck, I supported you when you came on and used to post and it would hit the board like 8 at a time!lol Lets make the trade, one of my 4.5's for the 4300.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:14 PM   #43
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I have yet to see anything on these threads that you have said that I have disagreed with. Heck, I supported you when you came on and used to post and it would hit the board like 8 at a time!lol Lets make the trade, one of my 4.5's for the 4300.
Sorry I already have a 4.5. I sure do need a 3.5 though.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:17 PM   #44
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The nice thing about brushless as far as mod. You only need one of each.
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:21 PM   #45
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Very true. I am trying to trade my truggy for a GTB and/or a 5800 system. Dudes are nibbling, but no one has taken the bait. Once I get a bite, its on. I know I will have some serious fun and mega run times in the milder winds.
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