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Old 11-19-2001, 05:18 PM   #1
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Unhappy can my batteries be saved?

i don't know how i do it, but i seem to have more and more batteries that won't take a charge. it's not that they're old, just all of a sudden they won't run at all. some just barely. they show a high voltage on the new millenium pro that i just purchased , but won't even light the lightbulb discharger. what's going on? how did i ruin them? and can i save some of the cells. if so, how can i check for the bad ones? i understand, that if i save a few from each, my packs won't be matched, but i'd like to use them for beaters. any help would be appreciated. thanks.
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Old 11-19-2001, 05:22 PM   #2
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Default Re: can my batteries be saved?

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Originally posted by seaball
they show a high voltage on the new millenium pro that i just purchased , but won't even light the lightbulb discharger. what's going on?
It sounds like you have some bad solder joints. I've seen solder joints that would allow enough current to read voltage, but would not pass enough current to run anything like a car or discharger.

What solder are you using to build your packs, and what soldering iron?

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Old 11-19-2001, 10:07 PM   #3
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hey trips, thanks. that's a possibility. i'm using a weller 140 watt gun. some of the packs were already assembled, as i got them used. some have worked great, then... nada. i'll try to check the joints though. thanks.
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Old 11-19-2001, 11:41 PM   #4
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seaball,

You might want to get a better soldering tool than that weller gun. I don't care how many watts a gun is rated at, the tip is just not massive enough to retain heat when you try to make the joint on the cell.

A good 40-60 watt iron with a massive tip is what you need. The heavy tip doesn't lose its heat the second you touch it to the work.

Also, make sure you're using good 60/40 rosin core solder. I've seen a few racers at the shop where I worked who were using some sort of lead-free solder. It didn't seem to do a good job.

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Old 11-20-2001, 04:06 PM   #5
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trips,
what are you following me around? you seem to be answering all of my questions. that makes a ton of sense. good old heat transfer. the higher power will heat faster, but i guess i need a heat sink so to speak. i have a 80 watt weller stained glass iron with a super fat tip. i'll try that. thanks, later.
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Old 11-22-2001, 12:38 AM   #6
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sweet, sweet mary. it worked like a champ. thanks. dunno if i can save any though, but they look pretty.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:53 PM   #7
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If you still have problems with your packs, try to get a voltage measurement off each individual cell. If they read zero, you can pretty much toss them out.

You can get a cheap little voltmeter pretty much anywhere that will do the job.

Happy racing!
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:47 PM   #8
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Are you digging up old threads just to harrass Seaball?
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
Are you digging up old threads just to harrass Seaball?
Partly. It's fun to see how he asked so many questions then, and now is a primary source of information.

Also, it's nice to see how far we've come. Racing is generally cheaper and easier now. Yet we complain more and more as each year goes by.

Sometimes, a little perspective is nice.
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:51 PM   #10
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That's how you become an information source in the first place - ask as many questions as possible!

Although, a couple of these old threads are embarrassing
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:04 PM   #11
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:37 PM   #12
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I wonder if they make wraps for those cool weller 140 watt guns.
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