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Old 03-24-2003, 05:58 PM   #16
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If you go back to Pops original question... I find it makes no difference what the amp draw is while the motor is breaking in and I have seen a wide range of breakin amp draws that I attribute to things such as com dia and brush diameters, brands etc. I do note the draw when the brushes are fully seated and my best motors seem to have a slightly higher amp draw but I rely on my dyno for the final word.
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Old 03-24-2003, 06:17 PM   #17
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I never use a dyno and never have trouble going fast in stock. If your car works well almost any motor will be fast. You can easily tell on the track in a few laps if your gearing is good or not. Now I have been racing for a long time so it works for me but maybe not for some guys with less driving experiance.

I have seen many of motors that kick on a dyno and then flop on the track and I have seen ones that suck on the dyno and rip on the track. The dyno no matter how good will never simulate actual racing loads with all the on and off the throttle that happens when racing. Now dynos are a great starting point but some think it can make up for bad setups and driving skills and that just will never happen.
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Old 03-24-2003, 07:42 PM   #18
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Default Amp draw at Motor break-in


Well today I rebuilt 4 different Motors and the run-in feature sure came in handy to break the Brushes in.

The Amp draw thing was just a question out of curiosity. Funny how a simple question can be turned into an arguement of Principals and Theory.

I'm going to run all 4 Motors on my Dyno and see how they do. Then I'll test them at the track in the coming weekend's races.
What I'm basicly looking for is High Torque and Power output with RPM as a 3rd consideration.
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