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Old 03-14-2007, 07:42 AM   #421
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not seen them, only got the metal tabbed version, and I am not busting open one of the kids motors to prove a point.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:54 AM   #422
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Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
not seen them, only got the metal tabbed version, and I am not busting open one of the kids motors to prove a point.
Exactly, read through page 11 on the Silvercan Motor Tips/Tricks...they say over and over that you CAN get it apart but getting it back together is almost impossible and you WILL leave marks showing the motor has been tampered with. So..you're all wrong...in regards to Silvercan motors. Tampering with them, if even possible, leaves obvious marks of tampering that would get you disqualified and booted from most tracks. So, anyone else got any proof that you can cheat with a 540-J or 540-M easily that would pass tech???? Anyone???? Proof or just more talking out your backsides????
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:29 AM   #423
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Do we realy care, and if I posted pics of it stripped than built, you would only argue that they are the before pics. Why don't you just accept that they can, I been in this game since 1989, and I have seen most tricks.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:34 AM   #424
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Originally Posted by *SBH*
The paint on Your body can also be heavy. 10 to 15 grams different!
OK, i can imagine that 'normal' paint is lighter than metallic paint, or is there a difference between brands (like Tamiya or Vascolor)
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:36 AM   #425
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If you had enough time i'm sure someone could do it, there is always one out there to prove you wrong.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:53 AM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
Do we realy care, and if I posted pics of it stripped than built, you would only argue that they are the before pics. Why don't you just accept that they can, I been in this game since 1989, and I have seen most tricks.
You all brought it up. I said a silvercan class is a viable solution for new folks joining the hobby and a better one then a new electronic limiter that nobody has even created yet and it doesn't force people to buy new packs specifically for TCs that they wouldn't use in buggies or trucks. My solution is cheap and tech tips are already out there on how to catch cheaters doing what you're describing (TCS does it 10+ times a year). Seems like everyone simply wants a more expensive solution. That's fine, but it's not a solution. Expense is part of the problem and adding more fixes NOTHING.

Oh, and I don't give a rat's hindend how long you've been in the hobby. I hate it when people use that or "I'm sponsored" as an arguement as to why we should all listen to them. You've been racing with Silvercans for how long? I race with a guy who's been racing silvercan Minis seriously since 2001 and won the Mini class in 2001 for the Tamiya Championship Series (you can find those results on Tamiyas website). He also finished 2nd in February in SilverCan Mini in one of the Major races in Omaha (those results also on the HobbyPlex website). He's been dealing with Silvercans a long time too and says you can't open one and get it back together without marks showing that it's been tampered with so it wouldn't pass ANY tech inspection. Plus, you can always follow Canadian TCS rules and Dyno every silvercan motor and allow only a maximum of 1.3volts. It's not like Silvercan motors aren't being used competitively now, though only by Tamiya owners and racers.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:15 AM   #427
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There isnt one easy answer to this topic and there never will be, however - what this hobby and brca/roar needs to understand is the racing needs to be either slower or less expensive (or both) to accomodate the newcomers.

Yes, everyone likes speed but some people progress faster than others in managing it
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:23 AM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team
There isnt one easy answer to this topic and there never will be, however - what this hobby and brca/roar needs to understand is the racing needs to be either slower or less expensive (or both) to accomodate the newcomers.

Yes, everyone likes speed but some people progress faster than others in managing it
True and I offered a solution that does both but everyone else just wants to look at "solutions" that cost more for the racer and/or track operators. That's fine. You guys can continue to argue about nonexistent technology, and moving TCs farther from other forms of racing. I'll continue to race and watch TCs die as no viable solution is offered. Hopefully ROAR officials have some viable ideas...or you will all be parking lot bashing your obsolete electric TCs.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:25 AM   #429
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Oh, and I'll let you folks have this thread. There'll be another just like it in a month or two argueing the same junk again.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:33 AM   #430
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Originally Posted by muahdib4
Oh, and I'll let you folks have this thread. There'll be another just like it in a month or two argueing the same junk again.
Anyone can comment on a forum as thats what its here for, I think you're just seeing the point there wont ever be an easy way of keeping everyone happy and thats why it gets heated.

It seems every idea has its flaws, even 5 cell which was the main topic
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:53 AM   #431
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Man, you realy are an ignorant sod aren't you. It was a long time ago since I learnt to tie my laces and handle more power than a johnsons silver can, and I race to go fast not slow. As for the 'I been racing x years' is relevant, cause nothing is wholly new in this game, just spun differently.

Albeit cheating in sealed can class is just dumb, but hey, it is possible and definately doable without being caught. But I don't race them, as I prefer to run motors that you can legaly fiddle with.

Silvercan is an ideal class for racing indoors on tight carpet tracks though.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:13 PM   #432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ztrezz
OK, i can imagine that 'normal' paint is lighter than metallic paint, or is there a difference between brands (like Tamiya or Vascolor)
I am not thinking about the brand of paint, but probably there are also some differences there - But the amount of paint sprayed on Your body can vary a lot from one painter-dude to another. Off course air brush can do the trick lighter than spraycans. Think about it, its the highest point on Your car
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:30 PM   #433
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If you want a lightweight shell, just get a can of aerosol, spray a few coats, remove window masks, job done, if you want your swirly whirly patterns, it is gonna take paint.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:16 PM   #434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
Man, you realy are an ignorant sod aren't you. It was a long time ago since I learnt to tie my laces and handle more power than a johnsons silver can, and I race to go fast not slow. As for the 'I been racing x years' is relevant, cause nothing is wholly new in this game, just spun differently.

Albeit cheating in sealed can class is just dumb, but hey, it is possible and definately doable without being caught. But I don't race them, as I prefer to run motors that you can legaly fiddle with.

Silvercan is an ideal class for racing indoors on tight carpet tracks though.
From post #356 on the Silvercan tips/tricks thread...

1) It is not possible to open a modern silver can motor and put it back together without it being very obvious. Period.
2) It is not possible to crank a modern silver can motor (advance the timing) without killing it due to the cam lock installed when it is manufactured. Period.
3) It is possible to advance the timing slightly on a modern silver can motor using a magnet zapper, but while RPM goes up, torque goes waaaaaay down.

Take it from someone who's been there for a long time (check out the avatar): if you want a fast silver can motor, buy A LOT OF THEM, test them all, water dip and break in the fastest ones, and sell the rest to the kids in the neighborhood. Ask pretty much anyone in TCS: my silver cans ROCK...and they are legal. Including the amp draw thing.

From rccardr who's been racing Tamiya Championship Series for a LONG time and been racing probably as long if not longer then you. This isn't about forcing YOU to race silvercan but offering a viable alternative for a slower class for new racers to learn and possibly help new people without trying to completely redesign the hobby. So maybe you need to go argue this with someone who knows MORE THAN YOU about silvercan racing. You can continue to name call all you want but I'VE done my research. I'm not just spouting crap and then using the number of years of experience (obviously not with silvercans) to justify my crap either. Go to ANY TCS, since you're a racing God, and race in GT3 or Mini with your cheat silvercan and see if it passes tech after you win since silvercan is so slow and easy and THEN spout your nonsense.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:44 PM   #435
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Originally Posted by muahdib4
......if you want a fast silver can motor, buy A LOT OF THEM, test them all, water dip and break in the fastest ones, and sell the rest to the kids in the neighborhood. Ask pretty much anyone in TCS: my silver cans ROCK...and they are legal. Including the amp draw thing......
That goes right to my point of what is wrong in competitive racing. How much does a motor cost you in time and money after you've done all that? Also, just how long is that motor good for, before you have to replace it...and repeat the whole process all over?

That is exactly what deters people like me from getting involved in racing.

If, on the other hand, there was a motor out there which was very consistent, that didn't have variation in brushes and timing to add to the variation.....that didn't require a fancy break-in procedure, that didn't wear out after a race or two.......
.....oh wait.....there is.....it is called brushless....

When you factor in all the culling of the herd, break-in and wearout...brushless is actually cheaper and certainly less daunting for newbies.
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