CEFX Racing Thread.

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  • I have a new Parma body for the car, what are you guys using at Josh's track?
  • My car has been working extremely well, but i recently noticed that 2 screws from the aft t-bar pivot are hitting/resting heavy on the lower pod plate. based on the instructions (from previous edition) i put one .030 washer between the t-bar and bottom pod plate. i just noticed per those instructions the previous bottom pod plate was "U" notched for clearance of those two aft 2-56 pivot mount screws. with it installed this way, the main frame and bottom pod plate aren't flush. that's how it was on the previous car.

    1. is the new C12 supposed to have two .030 washers between the t-bar and bottom pod plate?

    2. or one .030 per the old instructions? and break out the dremel to start notching for clearance?
  • Quote: I have a new Parma body for the car, what are you guys using at Josh's track?
    From what I've seen when racing there the most popular 12th scale bodies seem to be the Protoform Speed12 and the Parma Speed 8HD.
  • Havin't recieved my kit yet, whats the list of tools need for the kit, might have to make a Hudy run.
  • Quote: My car has been working extremely well, but i recently noticed that 2 screws from the aft t-bar pivot are hitting/resting heavy on the lower pod plate. based on the instructions (from previous edition) i put one .030 washer between the t-bar and bottom pod plate. i just noticed per those instructions the previous bottom pod plate was notched for clearance of those two aft 2-56 pivot mount screws. with it installed this way, the main frame and bottom pod plate aren't flush. that's how it was on the previous car.

    1. is the new C12 supposed to have two .030 washers between the t-bar and bottom pod plate?

    2. or one .030 per the old instructions? and break out the dremel to start notching for clearance?
    I'm taking a stab at this. Because of the way the rear pod is designed, you'll want to run option 2. Because the motor hangs below the bottom plate, using only one .030 spacer will make it so that the bottom of the motor is even with the main chassis plate.
  • i noticed the pod plates were cut a lot lower than my CRC pod plates and there was 6 .030 washers in the kit. looking at the older C12 evo2 instructions that came with it, i installed one. i have run 12th cars in the past or have seen where the motor breaks the bottom plain. the Delta P12 i had did alot, a racer in AZ had a Trinity car that did slightly...think it was a Reflex-12? today's 27T and 19T motors the flat spots you might be able to use 2 washers.

    right now having taken the .030 washer out from under the front pivot and rebolting it....the two 2-56 screws have or are causing a slight load creating a droop in the upward direction.

    i know many things changed from the first to the second version, like the cross brass is now infront of the aluminum standoffs not in back. yep i had to redo it after following the older instructions...no biggee just want ot make sure i didn't miss anything new that was to be done before i grind.
  • Is there a EVO2 set-up with CRC tire combination, that has ran well?. Everyone seems to be favoring the Jaco's. As well is the CEFX t-bars stronger then the AE's or other brands?
  • Quote: ...so that the bottom of the motor is even with the main chassis plate.
    That's exactly what Josh told us to do on the MkI. The CoG is best set with the motor level with the bottom of the main chassis, and that was not how the original instructions set it. You'll notice that other pod designs (AE, CRC, Corally, etc.) make this an 'automatic' setting - when you build the car, it is level.

    With motors with 'flats' on, adjust the washers so the the bottom of the motor is level with the bottom of the main chassis. HTH
  • What size steering links should I use on the EVO2? Got the car used and I need some steering links. I'm going to use the Futaba 9650 servo if that helps. More than likley I will use Lunsford titanium links.

    Also need to order some alum servo mounts to like those green ones EA has on his car.
  • Congrats to the guys that got the EVO2 in the A mains at Nats...
    19t: Mo Denton..Andy Power
    Stock: Andrew Ellis TQ.. Andy Power.. Eric Anderson
    and of course Mr Josh Cyrul Modified... way to Go Guys!!! Not a bad showing at the Home Track CEFX Raceway Josh should be proud!! Now we just need to see them setups listed up here!!!!

    Roger Thenhaus
  • Quote: Congrats to the guys that got the EVO2 in the A mains at Nats...
    19t: Mo Denton..Andy Power
    Stock: Andrew Ellis TQ.. Andy Power.. Eric Anderson
    and of course Mr Josh Cyrul Modified... way to Go Guys!!! Not a bad showing at the Home Track CEFX Raceway Josh should be proud!! Now we just need to see them setups listed up here!!!!

    Roger Thenhaus

    Thanks for the kind words! It sure was nice to be back at a big race after 6 or 7 years and to be able to run good for Josh and CEFX. Thanks to Mo for a stock motor tip that helped me have a lot more fun in the stock mains.
    I wish I would have had that much motor earlier

    As far as setup.... I know the bite was WAAAAY up for the later rounds of qual's and then tapered off in the maiin. I was running 5 Deg. blocks with 1 shim in front and one in back. 71 thou thick T-bar. Double pinks and yellows cut down to 1.62 Sure had a lot of fun and got a work-out running triple A-mains in 3 classes. What's the next race???
  • Andy ~ Can you please speak up, I can't hear you..........YEAH
  • Quote: Andy ~ Can you please speak up, I can't hear you..........YEA
    GRAB... YEAH!!!!

    Damn you Willis!
  • Dale, did you hear something? Yeah!
  • Oh yeah, congrats to everyone for a awesome place to find out just how bad I suck after my little break.

    And thanks Andy, Stosh, Todge, Willis, Kropy for making it a fun week for me.

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