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Old 02-16-2007, 11:49 AM   #16
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Wow, I love math but for $65 I'll keep my alignment station

But I will agree that using the old eyeball is pretty good on toe in and out.
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:56 AM   #17
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RPM camber gauge: $10
ride height and droop gauge : $10
with this two thing... you can pretty much setup the whole car.

this is what i do when i got lazy and start eye balling.

1) lay the flat surface of the ride height gauge against the wheel.
you should see some gap toward the top of the wheel.. that is the negative camber.. I then press the car down to see how much of negative camber i'm getting at compressed state. then adjust from there if i need more

2) setting toe is a bit tricky.. but the rpm camber gauge will do the trick.
take off your front bumper. stand the car up with front facing down the flat surface like setup board. then use the rpm gauge to measure the front toe. just make sure the power is turn on so your servo is center. rear is the same, you just have to flip the number you are seeing on the gauge, like +2 is actually a 2 degree toe in.

you can always bust out the math and calc... but for my own sack.. i got a setup station to check those adjustment.

~Ming
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_Malinoski
Andrew, I think you may have made an error in your calculation of Toe, please see the attached pictures. You put the overall tire size as a leg of the triangle, when I think it really should be the hypotenuse.

Also, all these values are effected by where a measurement is taken. I agree with the other posts that you should look into getting an inexpensive RPM gauge, as it is much easier to get a quick angle measurement than breaking out your trig.

Nick Malinoski
You're right. tan=opp/ajd. It should have been: tan^-1(.0135/sqrt(2.557^2 -.0135^2))

right?
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aoizip
RPM camber gauge: $10
ride height and droop gauge : $10
with this two thing... you can pretty much setup the whole car.

this is what i do when i got lazy and start eye balling.

1) lay the flat surface of the ride height gauge against the wheel.
you should see some gap toward the top of the wheel.. that is the negative camber.. I then press the car down to see how much of negative camber i'm getting at compressed state. then adjust from there if i need more

2) setting toe is a bit tricky.. but the rpm camber gauge will do the trick.
take off your front bumper. stand the car up with front facing down the flat surface like setup board. then use the rpm gauge to measure the front toe. just make sure the power is turn on so your servo is center. rear is the same, you just have to flip the number you are seeing on the gauge, like +2 is actually a 2 degree toe in.

you can always bust out the math and calc... but for my own sack.. i got a setup station to check those adjustment.

~Ming
Good stuff! I'll give this a try. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:28 AM   #20
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After almost five years off of racing, when I got back in I couldn't find my RPM camber gauge. I picked up one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1028

Of course about three days later I found my camber gauge, but I'm not going to be too worried about being out $2.
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:46 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PseudoScience
You're right. tan=opp/ajd. It should have been: tan^-1(.0135/sqrt(2.557^2 -.0135^2))

right?
That would work as well, but you could just use Sine for an easier formula as in my attachments above (no square roots needed).

Nick Malinoski
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