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Old 07-21-2003, 09:12 PM   #586
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2-3 days???
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Old 07-21-2003, 09:16 PM   #587
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Quote:
Originally posted by Axiom5B
2-3 days???
we will see as it gets closer . but cant say yes forsure just yet
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Old 07-22-2003, 02:50 AM   #588
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Cool Scandinavian DEMON.

Greetings from the land of reindeers and looooong summer nights!

I received my DEMON a few weeks ago and have spent a few days at the track with it now.

First I would like to say that I think it’s a beautiful chassis! It has a more “solid” feel to it than the old chassis and I feel that it reacts more (or more consistent) to setup changes.

I added a Hitec digital servo and a one way while doing the DEMON conversion, so it takes some practice to get used to the car again. ...But I’m getting there!

Just to give you an idea of where I race:
My local track is 204m (670 ft) with a variety of high-speed sections and technical sections. Surface is asphalt that has become a bit bumpy (only small bumps) a few places. Track records are 16,2sec (I think it was) in 27T stock and 14,2sec in 12T modified. Have a look: Lorenskog modellbil klubb click at "bilder" to look at some pictures, there are pictures from various races there also, just follow the links.

I have only been racing in the stock class so far but I’m thinking about ”graduating” to modified. I had a few runs with a modified last time I was at the track and with the DEMON, the car was planted!!! The setup felt damn near perfect!

I am really looking forward to the next race, the Norwegian National Cup, August 3. I’ve never raced at that particular track before but I think it’s designed for 1:8 scale.

I have a couple of questions about the DEMON that I would appreciate your input on:

1. Do you use a screw with a spring like on the standard TC3 to tighten the motor clamp with, or just the screw that came with the DEMON kit? I am afraid that I will break the clamp if I don’t use the spring. (Especially since it’s not like you can just to the LHS to buy another clamp if you break it...)

2. I have to force the motor past the top deck when removing or installing a motor, have you guys done anything to cope with this (e.g. dremeling/ sanding)?

3. I have heard/ read that the aluminium battery brace that the Factory Team (and DEMON) comes with will actually revert heat to the batteries once it’s “saturated” with heat. I can’t see the logic in that but I have noticed that guys like Barry Baker uses the composite one, and there is probably a reason...

4. Have you guys filed or “dremeled” the battery slots to make the batteries sit lower in the chassis? I think the batteries were actually a tad closer to the ground with the standard chassis.

I am not putting the DEMON down here, I am merely addressing details to get my “brand new car” as perfect as possible.

All your inputs and/ ideas are welcome!!

Best Regards
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Old 07-22-2003, 11:51 AM   #589
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OleC,
As far as the motor mount once I get the gear mesh right I tighten the clamp down fully and I haven't had a problem.
And I just tilt the motor to the side and then turn it toward the spur and it goes in without a hitch. I'm sure Barry has his reasons but he is really concerned with wieght on his car and composite is lighter than aluminium and also the aluminium AE battery brace will bend but I don't really know those are just estimated gusses.
And for the battery slots Vic made the chassis when the ultra batteries were out and they are smaller and lighter than the new 3300's so that's why they are not ground out more but you can if you want to, I personaly left it the way it was.
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Old 07-23-2003, 05:30 AM   #590
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OK. Thanks!

I've seen some pictures where the battery wires are run under the top deck. Won't they come in contact with the drive shaft?
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Old 07-23-2003, 06:42 AM   #591
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Quote:
Originally posted by OleC
OK. Thanks!

I've seen some pictures where the battery wires are run under the top deck. Won't they come in contact with the drive shaft?
Ole Christian:

No, it will not. There is enough clearance for the wires and the drive shaft. Everyone here in the states are running the wires under the top deck.
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Old 07-23-2003, 11:06 AM   #592
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To help get the wires to push up toward the deck, resolder your battery bars farther up on the cell.
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Old 07-23-2003, 07:59 PM   #593
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i dont know if this has been asked before but why are the batteries on the opposite side of the chassis compared to a stock chassis?
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:05 PM   #594
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It completely gets rid of the TC3's tendency to have some torque steer. The car tracks straight on every launch .
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:09 PM   #595
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Quote:
Originally posted by Axiom5B
It completely gets rid of the TC3's tendency to have some torque steer. The car tracks straight on every launch .
but i thought that AE built theirs that way so there was minimal torque steer...this is too confusing getting dizzy need an aspirin
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:12 PM   #596
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Yes, keyword: Minimal. Throw a hot mod in there and you can see it. I saw Baker's car torque-steering down the back straight at last year's Novak Race. I have tested the car in stock and mod and there is ZERO torque steer.
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:52 PM   #597
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just curious as to why the majority of companies go with the batterie on the right side(hpi,TC3,YOKOMO,TAMIYA)

and few go the demon route(alexracing)
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Old 07-23-2003, 09:57 PM   #598
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Quote:
Originally posted by crono man
this is too confusing getting dizzy need an aspirin
the magic drug is PROZAK
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Old 07-23-2003, 10:07 PM   #599
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OK now I have new cvd's and outdrives and the car is ready to run again and it will be a take no prisoners week end for me !!!!!
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Old 07-24-2003, 12:41 AM   #600
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Quote:
Originally posted by howard hudson
OK now I have new cvd's and outdrives and the car is ready to run again and it will be a take no prisoners week end for me !!!!!
Thats alright HOWIE << I have a get out of Jail card for you to use when I hand cuff another win with the LOSI !!!! see ya there!!!!!!
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