TT-01 4WD has become 3WD! (Help!)
#1

Hi all.
Hope someone might be able to help me out here, but I've finally put together my first ever r/c car.
It's a TT-01 with a few extra hops.
.....which means I'm a noob, hence my noobish question.
I ran it for a test on the road a little while ago and after a few minutes, it began to stop start like when you're in wrong gear in a real car and the car lurches forward then stops then lurches etc etc.
I took the body off, picked it up and let the wheels run.
The back ones and the front right all spin together, but after a few seconds, the front left, stops whilst the others keep going.
Now before i dismantle the wheel, does anybody have an idea as to what the problem might be and possibly offer me a solution?
It'd be appreciated.
Hope someone might be able to help me out here, but I've finally put together my first ever r/c car.
It's a TT-01 with a few extra hops.
.....which means I'm a noob, hence my noobish question.
I ran it for a test on the road a little while ago and after a few minutes, it began to stop start like when you're in wrong gear in a real car and the car lurches forward then stops then lurches etc etc.
I took the body off, picked it up and let the wheels run.
The back ones and the front right all spin together, but after a few seconds, the front left, stops whilst the others keep going.
Now before i dismantle the wheel, does anybody have an idea as to what the problem might be and possibly offer me a solution?
It'd be appreciated.
#2

make sure that diff is operating properly ( like its tight enough) if thats not it come back
#3

This is gonna sound really noobish and stupid, but by diff, do you mean the set of cogs that are all enclosed in a plastic cog type of thing?
#4

Yeah, same thing mate. The only other thing worth while checking is that you haven't over tightened the wheel nuts. If you have the plastic drive hex's (which I presume you may have) I've known them to deform and bind the drive train up. Just back all off the wheel nuts off alittle, see if that helps.
Dan
Dan
#5
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)

Originally Posted by Saracen
This is gonna sound really noobish and stupid, but by diff, do you mean the set of cogs that are all enclosed in a plastic cog type of thing?
are you missing a dogbone on that corners? is the outdrive broken?
#6

Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Yeah, same thing mate. The only other thing worth while checking is that you haven't over tightened the wheel nuts. If you have the plastic drive hex's (which I presume you may have) I've known them to deform and bind the drive train up. Just back all off the wheel nuts off alittle, see if that helps.
Dan
Dan
That's exactly what i did after I checked the diff.
I wish it had been the first thing I'd done!
As soon as I loosened it, the wheel started turning with the other 3.
But the juddering has come back.
I have two theories.
1) The motor (RS 540) is cutting out
2) The battery is nearing the end of it's first charge?
You chaps got any ideas?
Like I said, a total noob but it won;t stop me doing an impulse purchase and getting a TA-05 and DF-03!
#7
Tech Apprentice

mine did that as first, charge the battery on a long charge then run it till it judders again give it another long charge then run it again then fast charge after that, mine hasnt done that since (a friend told me to do this and it worked)
#8

Originally Posted by D4nny06
mine did that as first, charge the battery on a long charge then run it till it judders again give it another long charge then run it again then fast charge after that, mine hasnt done that since (a friend told me to do this and it worked)
Thanks a lot for that dude.
I've got it set to a long charge at the moment and it should be done by 4.
As for fast charge, do I need a seperate type f charger for that?
Mine is one of those long 19 hour jobs.
Can I fast charge on the same one?
What constitutes a fast charge?
I'm still learning about this r/c stuff.
It's good fun to be honest.