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Old 02-14-2007, 10:25 AM   #16
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I have a Niftech alignment bar available if anyone is interested. $20.- incl shipping.

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Old 02-14-2007, 11:56 AM   #17
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I use a Holeshot alignment board that I got years ago when pan car racing was much bigger. It's super easy to use and very accurate. I haven't seen them around for awhile but they are still listed as a product on Holeshot's website.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
Thats the one I saw some factory drivers using at the birds.....
Saw the same thing. I might wait for Jasons though as I'm getting into 1/12 now.

I'd also have to say, that I've been setting up the XRAY so much that I can get the toe right on the 1/12 by sight within .1d.
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:08 PM   #19
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I have the Unity Tool, had some friends that were hardcore that used these. Someone was selling on ebay didn't know what it was beyond some type of RC tool. Best enay deal ever $10. It is great for tweak but for toe there is know way to make sure the chassis is straight. I run zero toe so I have been using 1mm graph paper. I line it up the grid through the two holes on the front and back of my 12l4 and on my crc I use the front hole and make the rear parallel to lines.

I Just use this software and set the grid for 1mm and thicker lines at 1cm.

http://pharm.kuleuven.be/pharbio/gpaper.htm
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Old 02-14-2007, 03:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nilezb
Gentleman,

Check here:

http://www.unitytool.com/Unity_Tools...ek_boards.html

I think it rocks, it is not cheap but heck nothing is these days
at $145.00 it's a bargain compared to the HUDY all-in-one system I got last year. I may have to sell the Hudy and get the Unity...
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:17 PM   #21
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I have the Niftech system and I haven't been smart enough to figure out how to put 1deg of toe out in my car.

So I was taught by two good friends and great drivers. They use a caliper and make sure they only have 1 to 1.5 mm difference between the back and front of the front tires. Of course the wider part is in the front causing the toe out.
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Old 02-15-2007, 05:31 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
Nova F1 Racer,
Were the factory drivers you are refering to from CRC? Mark Calandra told me the one they were using (looks like this Unity tool) was from Germany and cost $300. I wonder if it is the same item.
Yes, it was at the CRC pit area..... I didn't get a real close look at it but it looked like it post above...
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Old 02-15-2007, 02:53 PM   #23
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Here's pics of the Holeshot one I use...I've had it for about 10 years now and swear by it. It's considerably less expensive then the Unity and very easy to use...If you can still find it. I know Holeshot still lists them on their web page as a product but it's been years since I've seen one.

Here's the parts that make it up except I forgot to include the RPM camber gauge that comes with it:


Here's how it's used. The axle blocks have 2 holes in it, 1 for 1/8th inch axles and one for the 3/16ths (or is it 5/16ths? I forget) sized axle. You simply insert the axle into the appropriate hole and lock in place with the thumb screw. Then use the riser blocks at the rear of the chassis to level out the chassis. With the axle blocks on you can easily set camber and caster using the RPM gauge. Insert the metal pointers into the axle blocks and set the car on the setup board to set toe.


Because the pointer is fairly long the distance between degree increments is pretty wide making it easy to just adjustments of less then a degree.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:07 PM   #24
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I still have mine although I haven't used it in years. The trouble I had with it (but not the fault of the design or manufacturer) was everytime I turn the steering wheel to see if it would center, took 2 or 3 times before it would center in the same dot. That was with analog servos probably not a problem with a digital servo. I can't remember if each dot was a degree apart.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:32 PM   #25
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That's a problem with your servo or play in the servo saver or links not in the setup board...each dot is 1 degree. I like that it attaches to the axle instead of using the rim to set up...rims too often get warped from usage and play in the bearings only add to the inaccuracies.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:01 PM   #26
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To do the adjustments, do you have the battery pack in or does it make no difference.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car
To do the adjustments, do you have the battery pack in or does it make no difference.
I do alignment with or without battery (front wheels are off to use the Niftech or Holeshot system, but ride height is ALWAYS checked/set with a battery in place.

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Old 02-15-2007, 11:55 PM   #28
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I set everything with the battery in...for toe I like the battery in and the car on so the power will hold the servo centered while I make my adjustments.
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