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Old 01-25-2007, 07:47 PM   #16
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im gonna have to get one of those Mi3's bro.its one of those things that i dont want one,i gotta have one.too damn cool looking
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Old 01-25-2007, 07:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
...as for taping the 12L4, many racers new to 12th try to add the tape while trying to hold the batteries in the car at the same time. sort of the elephant and monkey scenario.

the easiest way to deal with 12th tape car's, is to install the tape in the chassis first with the 2 tabs sticking up. then you put the pack in the car and put the two tabs of tape over the 2 cells on each side
This is especially important on the 12L4, there just isn't enough room for adult sized fingers to get that tape through.

I run a Speedmerchant Rev.4, and I put the tape on the chassis first. Even though I have a TON more room than a 12L4, it still makes taping much easier.

I tried velcro about 12 years ago on a 1/10th pan car. It worked "OK" as long as you ran a very high ground clearance. On 1/12th, there is no way you will get enough clearance for the velcro and still have a car that handles.

Taping is the best way to go.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:02 PM   #18
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Schumacher has the aluminum posts and carbon strap that I use on anything that needs it. It's an update for the old axis touring and cat 4wd buggies and works perfect. They have them in stock, just tell them whay you need. I have them on all my pancars 1/10 and 1/12 plus other cars and trucks that use saddlepacks. Just two small holes for the posts on each side. I think you will like them if your car has enough material to make the holes.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:28 PM   #19
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Hey guy's, embrace the tape embrace the tape Lol...
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:06 AM   #20
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If you are going to use a carbon strap across the cells, remember to space the height out correctly or you may induce a tweak by stressing the chassis between the standoffs the strap is bolted between. Its a pain in the rear end at the moment using a SP12x and tape because of the orientation of the cells but if the cells are across the chassis (like a original CEFX C12) its much easier.
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:04 AM   #21
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I saw this pic on another thread its of the kawada 1/12. anyone know if i can get this to fit my rc12l4? looks like it could i wouldnt know were to order it from though. Any info on this would be helpfull
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Old 02-08-2007, 07:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crusty
I saw this pic on another thread its of the kawada 1/12. anyone know if i can get this to fit my rc12l4? looks like it could i wouldnt know were to order it from though. Any info on this would be helpfull
You can download the m300 rsx manual and verify if you are able to made on the rc12L4 chassis the modifications needed to fit these battery holder.

http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/manual/...al_m300rsx.pdf

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Old 02-08-2007, 08:45 AM   #23
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I love these threads. They they should be called "How do I ruin the hamdling of my 1/12th (or Sedan) because I am lazy and wont use tape" threads.

O-rings bend your chassis from the tension. This tweaks the heck out of your chassis and makes you car handle bad.

Most people that use carbon straps put them on too tight becuase they crash a lot and want to keep the cells from flying out all the time. This tweaks the heck out of your chassis and makes you crash more.

There is a reason why pros use tape...it holds the cells in better and does not tweak you chassis.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:45 PM   #24
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Years ago, Yokomo did some velcro straps that were only half velcro. The top side was hook and loop, but the bottom side wasn't so it didn't ruin your ride height.

They did them in 3x3 formation for cars like the YR4 and the 6 cell 12th class, and in 2x2 for stickpacks, but worked in 4 cell 12th.

Heres mine in my old RC12L3:

http://gazdesigns.fpic.co.uk/p10178560.html
http://gazdesigns.fpic.co.uk/p10178563.html
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:58 PM   #25
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you can get those velcro straps from Integy..
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...18107570441.a0

I still have my sets made by Racetech.
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:29 PM   #26
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Not one of the alternate methods suggested on ths thread works as well as tape. Tape is lighter and holds the batteries more securely. Learn to use tape.
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Not one of the alternate methods suggested on ths thread works as well as tape. Tape is lighter and holds the batteries more securely. Learn to use tape.
^ What he said =)
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:41 PM   #28
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hey if you reg. fiber tape. A trick one of the guy's showed me. was to use about a foot long pc. but tear it in half. this way it is easier to get through the area by the rear pod. after you get loop you can wrap the rest around the cell. (about 3 layers.)This way you get some strenght. and it is easier to work with.

But tape is the way to go. or you could pick up a conversion kit. hyperform and a couple other make. you cell are mounted lenght wise with the chassis. make taping a lot easier.
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:00 PM   #29
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There is no Velcro strap thin enough to be used effectively on a 12th scale carpet car. Considering that we usually run between 3 and 4 mm ride height, there just isn't room.

I agree that the 12L4 is rough to get the tape started, but once you learn the technique, it isn't bad.
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotpez
There is no Velcro strap thin enough to be used effectively on a 12th scale carpet car. Considering that we usually run between 3 and 4 mm ride height, there just isn't room.

I agree that the 12L4 is rough to get the tape started, but once you learn the technique, it isn't bad.
the one's I've used in the passed..the velcro is not the full length.. only long enough to secure the batteries properly.. the rest of the strap is nylon and part that wraps under the chassis is very thin.

That was many many moons ago... now I use tape on all my cars.
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