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Old 01-23-2007, 01:22 PM   #16
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I never really check front to rear on the scales. I just set the car up per the manual, then get it side to side balance. Most cars have either a front or rear or both wheelbase adjustment. This is what you use to change the F/R weight balance. You dont really need to know how much the % of weight change is, just the amount of shims you moved.
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Con
I use scales for tweek it works great! It works better than a tweek station becuse you can "see" all 4 corners at the same time.I bought 4 scales from "The Source" for around $20 each.Don't expect every corner to be exatly the same,10-15 grams differance seems to be ok.

what's the website for the source?
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:19 PM   #18
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I'm not sure.....I can't find it either The source used to be Radio shack here in Canada not sure what it is in the USA now.The scales are NexXtech Model#6313003 mini electronics scale.I hope that helps
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:18 PM   #19
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There are a hand full of different 500-600 gram scales on eBay that you can pick up for about 15 bucks each shipped. They're tiny too. For a little more than the price of a tweak station you can pick up 4 scales.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...e=search&fgtp=
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:13 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by JasonC
hey paco you are more than welcome to use my scale setup any time at socal,
Thanks Jason. All this time I've seen the scales at the track but never knew who they belonged to until now. I'll have to check my cars next time I see the scales there. Maybe this Saturday I'll take the dayoff though. I want to go to Corona/CB's race on Sunday.
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:29 PM   #21
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I think the most important thing to do first is set your PRELOADS the same for the rear, and then for the front (the front will not be the same as the rear, but both rears will be the same and both fronts will be the same).

First off, don't worry about the acctual ride height, because you may need to add some weights to get the left/right balance correct. If you set your ride height before placing on the scales, the weight may show differently.

I did alot of work with scales on my old TC3. When I was done, the ride height was really weird. It was close to where I wanted it, but not perfect. However, the weight on each wheel was nearly perfect. The car worked beutifully for the first time ever. Then the Xray FK04 came out. Good by TC3

Other may have their own way of using the scales. I though my method worked pretty darn good. I probably ended up in the same place as I would of using a different method. All I know is balancing that car made such a difference, it was night and day.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitCrew
I think the most important thing to do first is set your PRELOADS the same for the rear, and then for the front (the front will not be the same as the rear, but both rears will be the same and both fronts will be the same).

First off, don't worry about the acctual ride height, because you may need to add some weights to get the left/right balance correct. If you set your ride height before placing on the scales, the weight may show differently.

I did alot of work with scales on my old TC3. When I was done, the ride height was really weird. It was close to where I wanted it, but not perfect. However, the weight on each wheel was nearly perfect. The car worked beutifully for the first time ever. Then the Xray FK04 came out. Good by TC3

Other may have their own way of using the scales. I though my method worked pretty darn good. I probably ended up in the same place as I would of using a different method. All I know is balancing that car made such a difference, it was night and day.
Agreed, I use a MIP tweak station, but I worry more about getting equal tyre loads side to side, than getting equal ride height....
I just make sure the lowest part of the chassis is at the minium.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:04 AM   #23
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My routine is usually this:

1. check chassis for tweak using blocks.
2. check and adjust ride height
3. check and adjust camber/toe
4. check and adjust droop
5. check and adjust chassis balance (using Paul L. guide)
6. check "ready to run" chassis tweak using Speedmind station (similiar to MIP)

And Yes, after you do all of this, sometimes the collars will be out slightly, but not much and the ride height will change slightly.

If the ride height/spring collar preload is out by a fair margin, I will check the car for other items that have tweaked the chassis (ie. shock lengths, shock mounting, roll bars, countersinking on chassis, bulkheads, shock towers, etc, etc.)

Finally, go out and race or test the car!!!


It sounds like a lot to do, but once you have the equipment out and you have your routine set, it takes no time whatsoever. and you know that the car is perfect as far as balance and tweak is concerned.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Leonard.
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:37 AM   #24
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Thanks Pitcrew and everyone else for taking the time to explain a simple yet complex issue that has had me confused for awhile. It's nice having 40,000 plus to ask questions!

Thanks Jeff
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