I need to be a little faster --- help ---
03-10-2003, 01:22 PM
#46
Re: I need to be a little faster --- help
Originally posted by popsracer
Cole Trickle;
I respect your opinion so.....What do you think?
I've got a Tekin G-9 in my Pro-3. Seems to work fine, several people have said that the Tekins were ahead of their time.
Do you think I would gain ANYTHING by changing to a new ESC or should I just leave it alone? Also do you think a Power Cap would give me more Punch with this ESC?
Thanks, Steven (popsracer)
Cole Trickle;
I respect your opinion so.....What do you think?
I've got a Tekin G-9 in my Pro-3. Seems to work fine, several people have said that the Tekins were ahead of their time.
Do you think I would gain ANYTHING by changing to a new ESC or should I just leave it alone? Also do you think a Power Cap would give me more Punch with this ESC?
Thanks, Steven (popsracer)
I'm not familiar with the G9, I searched on the net, but found nothing. 2 years ago I considered a Tekin (G10, I think). The only thing that stopped me, was the fact that Tekin left the arena.
I havent tried a cap. As far as I understand, they are only an advantage in mod. On the other hand, a cap doesent cost much, so it's easy to try out.
Upgrading ESC? It's difficult to say in your situation. I believe your ESC got good specs. That is, low resistance and a good BEC with 6 volt and good amps. Can you please enlighten me a little about the G9? Specs and features....
Cole Trickle alias Thomas
03-10-2003, 01:37 PM
#47
Unknown;
The tough thing is the budget. But the good thing is that you dont demand hi-tech, hi-spec and a lots of feature. So something should could be done.
Soldering posts are nice, because then it's easier to change wires. However, it cost, and it wont make you faster.
About one-ways. It's easier to drive with one-ways, if the auto-brake can be disabled. On the other hand, adjustable auto-brake raises the price.
One thing you should NOT compromise, are the BEC. 6 volt and at least 1 amp, preferable 2 amps. As said before, this will make your steering faster.
The first speedo, that came to mind, are the Hitec HFX. Many people loves it for its value for money. Nice specs. The frequency are around 1800 Hz, so it should got plenty of punch for stock. It should fit into your budget.Hitec HFX
The tough thing is the budget. But the good thing is that you dont demand hi-tech, hi-spec and a lots of feature. So something should could be done.
Soldering posts are nice, because then it's easier to change wires. However, it cost, and it wont make you faster.
About one-ways. It's easier to drive with one-ways, if the auto-brake can be disabled. On the other hand, adjustable auto-brake raises the price.
One thing you should NOT compromise, are the BEC. 6 volt and at least 1 amp, preferable 2 amps. As said before, this will make your steering faster.
The first speedo, that came to mind, are the Hitec HFX. Many people loves it for its value for money. Nice specs. The frequency are around 1800 Hz, so it should got plenty of punch for stock. It should fit into your budget.Hitec HFX
03-10-2003, 03:16 PM
#48
Tech Adept
Why dont you consider buying a used ESC? I sold my friend a LRP 7.1 for 50 dollars.
03-10-2003, 04:27 PM
#49
Tech Adept
unknown do you race with the mask on
03-10-2003, 04:36 PM
#50
Tech Elite
I need to be a little faster --- help
Cole Trickle;
Tekin G-9:
On resistance - .0007 ohm max.
Current Rating - 400 Amps
Braking Current - 120 Amps
BEC Volt/Amps - 6.0V/5.0Amps
Frequency - 16,000 Hz
Built-in Schottky Diode
NO mention of using a Power Capacitor.
Novak claims the Power Cap increases voltage to the Motor by 0.3V on the Cyclone ESC's.
I think your right about the specs on the G-9 being pretty good. I do know that after 3 weekends of racing (12+ runs), the Com only needs .002 taken off to clean up, and the Brushes show NO signs of burning or discoloration.
I think I'm going to install a small Cap, and De-grease those new Teflon Bearings I installed about a month ago in the P-3. Worth a try, what do you think?
Overall the Car is pretty good, just need a little more power to put me on top.
Thanks,
Tekin G-9:
On resistance - .0007 ohm max.
Current Rating - 400 Amps
Braking Current - 120 Amps
BEC Volt/Amps - 6.0V/5.0Amps
Frequency - 16,000 Hz
Built-in Schottky Diode
NO mention of using a Power Capacitor.
Novak claims the Power Cap increases voltage to the Motor by 0.3V on the Cyclone ESC's.
I think your right about the specs on the G-9 being pretty good. I do know that after 3 weekends of racing (12+ runs), the Com only needs .002 taken off to clean up, and the Brushes show NO signs of burning or discoloration.
I think I'm going to install a small Cap, and De-grease those new Teflon Bearings I installed about a month ago in the P-3. Worth a try, what do you think?
Overall the Car is pretty good, just need a little more power to put me on top.
Thanks,
Last edited by popsracer; 03-10-2003 at 04:39 PM.
03-11-2003, 12:20 AM
#51
Wow, that G9 got good specs.
One thing catch my eye, and that's the frequency. Usually, 16.000 Hz is used for mod motors. But I've never tried an ESC with adjustable freq., so I cant really tell the difference, for my part it's only theory.
Personally, I believe that the frequency thing is more about a feel in the middle-throttle area, than it's about regular speed.
If I were you, I would go for a brush alignment tool. Or maybe even a dyno.
One thing catch my eye, and that's the frequency. Usually, 16.000 Hz is used for mod motors. But I've never tried an ESC with adjustable freq., so I cant really tell the difference, for my part it's only theory.
Personally, I believe that the frequency thing is more about a feel in the middle-throttle area, than it's about regular speed.
If I were you, I would go for a brush alignment tool. Or maybe even a dyno.
Last edited by Cole Trickle; 03-11-2003 at 01:06 AM.
03-11-2003, 02:29 AM
#52
A comment on ESC internal resistance;
Ohms law: U=RxI, that is volt = ohm x amp.
As far as I know, then the hottest modified motor will draw 120 amps, when the armature are locked. So under heavy acceleration from zero mph or zero km/h, the motor will draw max 120 amps for a very short time.
Now all you have to do is this: 0,0007 x 120 = 0,084 voltage drop.
The IPC 7.1 got 0,00052 IR; 0,00052 x 120 = 0,0624.
So the IR-difference between those ESC's are only 0,0216 volt. And that is absolutely worst case. And a stock motor draws much less current.
As far as I know, then the hottest modified motor will draw 120 amps, when the armature are locked. So under heavy acceleration from zero mph or zero km/h, the motor will draw max 120 amps for a very short time.
Now all you have to do is this: 0,0007 x 120 = 0,084 voltage drop.
The IPC 7.1 got 0,00052 IR; 0,00052 x 120 = 0,0624.
So the IR-difference between those ESC's are only 0,0216 volt. And that is absolutely worst case. And a stock motor draws much less current.
03-11-2003, 07:50 AM
#53
Tech Elite
I need to be a little faster --- help ---
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Wow, that G9 got good specs.
If I were you, I would go for a brush alignment tool. Or maybe even a dyno.
Wow, that G9 got good specs.
If I were you, I would go for a brush alignment tool. Or maybe even a dyno.
I've got both!!. A Robitronic Dyno and all of the tuning tools (cept a motor spring checker). My brushes always look centered dead on, no burning, etc.
A Red/Red spring seems to increase torque without effecting Rpm much on the MS, but I have yet to find a Motor that stands out above the rest.
I'm going to buy a Matrix V10 this week per recommendation of a Good Friend who is always fast with that Motor and see how I like it.
I think maybe I've just had bad luck when choosing motors and am getting just average ones.
Thanks,
03-11-2003, 11:35 AM
#54
Re: I need to be a little faster --- help ---
Originally posted by popsracer
I've got both!!.
A Robitronic Dyno and all of the tuning tools (cept a motor spring checker). My brushes always look centered dead on, no burning, etc.
I've got both!!. A Robitronic Dyno and all of the tuning tools (cept a motor spring checker). My brushes always look centered dead on, no burning, etc.
03-11-2003, 01:45 PM
#55
I cleaned out my motor and bearings with this Electronic Parts Cleaner I bought at my local NAPA auto parts store. I also bought some silicone spray. What are some uses for the silicone spray?
The motor spray i used is called NAPA "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" with quick drying forumula. It works really good for motors, and cleans out bearings reeeeaaaallly fast. It sprays very fast compared to some motor sprays too, so it definately gets the gunk out.
I would reccomend this "cheapie" motor/electritronic cleaner to anyone who needs a cheap way to clean their electric or nitro r/c!
Its a good deal at about 2 bucks a can!
The motor spray i used is called NAPA "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" with quick drying forumula. It works really good for motors, and cleans out bearings reeeeaaaallly fast. It sprays very fast compared to some motor sprays too, so it definately gets the gunk out.
I would reccomend this "cheapie" motor/electritronic cleaner to anyone who needs a cheap way to clean their electric or nitro r/c!
Its a good deal at about 2 bucks a can!
03-11-2003, 03:09 PM
#56
Tech Elite
SILICONE SPRAY!!!!!!??????
AHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
DO NOT use the silicone spray in or around your motor!!!
Silicone spray is best used in Water Proofing something or in NON-Stick applications, such as in Molding parts. Best to keep it away from the insides of an electric motor.
How many ounces is the Napa Motor Spray. The Plus 3, R/C Motor spray is 14 oz at $3.99 a can.
Thanks,
DO NOT use the silicone spray in or around your motor!!!
Silicone spray is best used in Water Proofing something or in NON-Stick applications, such as in Molding parts. Best to keep it away from the insides of an electric motor.
How many ounces is the Napa Motor Spray. The Plus 3, R/C Motor spray is 14 oz at $3.99 a can.
Thanks,
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