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Old 03-09-2003, 08:13 PM   #31
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upgrade your esc i have an rtr tc3 and i upgraded for that junck esc that it comes with to a novack cyclone. now im much faster.
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Old 03-09-2003, 08:33 PM   #32
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What is a cheaper alternative to motor spray? Like something I can buy at a local hardware store? Thanks for the tips. What should I use to soak the motor in, becuase motor spray isnt cheap and you need LOTS to soak stuff.

Also, will the SuperBrain still be a good enough charger for me? False peak isnt a problem becuase I got some fans for it. Im really on a budget, so any charger over 100 dollars is OUT of the question. Im just not ready to lay down that kind of money on r/c. It is hard enough to support this hobby, as I am only 15 with no job.

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Old 03-09-2003, 08:42 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by KevanB
What is a cheaper alternative to motor spray? Like something I can buy at a local hardware store? Thanks for the tips. What should I use to soak the motor in, becuase motor spray isnt cheap and you need LOTS to soak stuff.

Also, will the SuperBrain still be a good enough charger for me? False peak isnt a problem becuase I got some fans for it. Im really on a budget, so any charger over 100 dollars is OUT of the question. Im just not ready to lay down that kind of money on r/c. It is hard enough to support this hobby, as I am only 15 with no job.
NAPA AUTO PARTS electric motor spray pn#4700 sometimes on sale for like 1.69 a can....... sometimes
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Old 03-09-2003, 08:48 PM   #34
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Kevan, why are you soaking your motors? They dont need to be soaked, just sprayed out. Thats why they call it motor spray. $6 a can, and they last a while. I usually get 2-3 weeks out of a can using it a lot.
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Old 03-09-2003, 09:53 PM   #35
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Default 1.69 a can

howard hudson;

Quote:
NAPA AUTO PARTS electric motor spray pn#4700 sometimes on sale for like 1.69 a can....... sometimes
Gee what buddy, been holding out on me

Last time I bought Plus-3 Motor spray I paid $2 a can, so I bought 12 cans.
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Old 03-09-2003, 10:15 PM   #36
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Is that napa one the same thing that turns your hands white, just like all the other motor sprays?
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Old 03-10-2003, 07:40 AM   #37
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Oh I soaked them last time becuase I hadnt cleaned them in a long time. I will to try to find some NAPA spray, at my local NAPA store. And about that charger thing, will the MRC 959 still work for me as a racing charger? It has been doing fine as long as I keep it cool.

Thanks guys
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Old 03-10-2003, 08:42 AM   #38
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The LRP Runner is reversible - meaning high internal resistance. The Runner manual dont mention the IR. So here's another comparision:

Novak Super Rooster, 0,02 ohm. Novak Dually: 0,0007 ohm. The max. current through a Runner is 70 amps. So, at 70 amps, the Super Rooster will have a voltage drop of 1,4 volts! This equals running a 5 cell pack. In the meanwhile, the dually will only have a voltage drop of 0,05 volt at 70 amps.

Most of the time, a stock motor will draw much less current, but under heavy acceleration, it will make a nice difference.

If you choose to go for new speedo, then ensure that the BEC delivers 6 volt. This will make your steering servo 25% faster. Means mucher quicker reactions to input.
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Old 03-10-2003, 08:56 AM   #39
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Is the Explorer 2 good enough for racing? Here are the specs for it:

Case size: 1.98"L X 1.42"W X 0.70"H
Weight (W/O heat sinks): 1.87 oz.
On-Resistance (Forward): 0.005 OHMS
Rated current (Forward): 150 amps
Braking current: 50 amps
Voltage input: 6-7 cells
PWM Frequency: 7.8 kHz nominal
B.E.C. Voltage: 5.0 volts
Overload protection: Thermal
Wire size (Battery/Motor): 16 gauge / 6 inches
Motor limit: 15 turns (or greater)


thanks
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Old 03-10-2003, 09:27 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by KevanB
Is the Explorer 2 good enough for racing?

thanks
The Explorer II is a reasonably ESC. It's hard to look at an ESC, and say if it's good enough for racing. You have to see things in relation to each other.

A better point of view is this: Whats my weakness in a race? Mine is, that I aint got enough time for practising. So more hop-ops wont give me an exstra lap in 5 minutes. About equipment, my weakest point are my batteries. A pack more of Sanyo 3000 HV will help me. This doesnt mean I got all the hi-tech stuff, I use to buy mid-range equipment. But I'm doing fine with what I got.

So, tell more about how you are doing at the track, then we better can help.
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Old 03-10-2003, 09:27 AM   #41
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Cole Trickle -

What speedo would you recommend then?
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Old 03-10-2003, 09:35 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by unknown
Cole Trickle -

What speedo would you recommend then?
Pure racing (no reverse)? Which price range? Are you planning to go mod later? How about one-ways? Do size matter? Do solder post matters?
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Old 03-10-2003, 09:42 AM   #43
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One item I saw mentioned only lightly about getting more speed is corner speed.

I have been working with one of our local racers complaining of the same thing. I dyno tested his motor and it was as good or better than mine. So, I gave him my best battery and he was STILL nearly a second per lap slower than I was.

His car setup was nearly identical to mine. That left only one variable: The Driver.

When I took the time to watch him, I noticed that he reacted very late to the corners. That forced him to turn the steering full lock. This would scrub an incredible amount of speed and he would then have to accelerate from a near dead stop. That gave him the impression that he was getting beaten on the straight.

Remember, on most indoor tracks, you spend less than 2 seconds on the straight. Trying to go faster here is not going to win races. Work on your driving and setup so that the car will roll through the corner. It will look slower to you because you are not accelerating, you are maintaining more speed.

Jeff Gilligan
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Old 03-10-2003, 11:10 AM   #44
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Default I need to be a little faster --- help

Cole Trickle;

I respect your opinion so.....What do you think?
I've got a Tekin G-9 in my Pro-3. Seems to work fine, several people have said that the Tekins were ahead of their time.
Do you think I would gain ANYTHING by changing to a new ESC or should I just leave it alone? Also do you think a Power Cap would give me more Punch with this ESC?

Thanks, Steven (popsracer)
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Old 03-10-2003, 02:05 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Pure racing (no reverse)? Which price range? Are you planning to go mod later? How about one-ways? Do size matter? Do solder post matters?
No reverse is fine. No more than $75. I am not planning on going mod later. I am stickin with stock.

How about one ways? Whadoya mean?

I prefer something that is either the same size or smaller than the LRP Runner Plus.

Do solder posts matter? Don't really know what those are.
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