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Old 01-07-2007, 01:06 AM   #16
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Hey suzuki. Crapy tire has an 80 watt iron for around 20-30 bucks. I useally use that one at the track. works great. Mine died last summer. I just returned it and they gave me another one in exchange. If you need to know the model number just ask.
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey suzuki. Crapy tire has an 80 watt iron for around 20-30 bucks. I useally use that one at the track. works great. Mine died last summer. I just returned it and they gave me another one in exchange. If you need to know the model number just ask.
ya i use this one for doing batt's
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Old 01-07-2007, 01:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey suzuki. Crapy tire has an 80 watt iron for around 20-30 bucks. I useally use that one at the track. works great. Mine died last summer. I just returned it and they gave me another one in exchange. If you need to know the model number just ask.
yeah alrite if i got some money left over buy a new car
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:24 AM   #19
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Skiddins,

What solder are you using with the flux pen? Is it a 60/40 rosin core solder?

- Tom
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinton
I've soldered over the years with about a 25% success rate.
Can you tell me some tips in order to solder up my batts and motors so they don't pop off when they get hot/warm?
if you still looking for options (batteries). Clean batteries surface to be soldered (-, +) with AUTOSOL (metal/chrome polish). It will smears the solder inside when being melted from the top of battery bars = strong joint.
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:33 AM   #21
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I'll add that after soldering batteries clean the flux off with motor spray, The tire and debree wont gather on the flux and keep'm look'n nice. That's pretty maticulas but detail is sometimes cool to.
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinton
Hey, and what's the deal with those connectors on your batt pack? Why not solder the wires direct?
So I can use Corally's on the power leads, when my new speedo comes I will moving connectors etc around so I can put the female tube directly onto the end of the cell.

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Old 01-07-2007, 11:27 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemical X
Skiddins,

What solder are you using with the flux pen? Is it a 60/40 rosin core solder?

- Tom
Similar to this stuff;

Stick Solder

The sticks are around 7mm in diameter and have no flux in them at all.
The ones I use also have 3% silver etc.
I only use those on the batteries.
They're meant to be for solder bath's etc, not soldering irons etc.

For motors etc I use 1.2mm, Lead Free solder (which does have some flux in it). But I still use the flux pen with it, it almost acts like a magnet for the solder which goes wherever the flux is.

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Old 01-07-2007, 11:30 AM   #24
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corally's? whats that?
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:40 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinton
corally's? whats that?
This is the 'Male';


These are the female connectors;


They make connecting up the electrics a lot easier etc.
I've never been a fan of the Deans style connectors;



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Old 01-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #26
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Deans Suck, Corallys rule. Thats what the majority of racers run over here
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Old 01-07-2007, 05:47 PM   #27
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Skiddins I like your post looks cool I can tell you are a gradguate to the study. Looks pro. I use the eagle brand 3mm. I use lipos and it makes plugigng easy and alot less soldering in the long run. I use the dean's plug's on all of my brushless motors, I have them set up for no soldering any more just change and plug. But your attention to detail and the cool battery bar with the female plug and the shrink wrap on it absolutly ROCK'S. Makes me miss it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 05:38 PM   #28
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I fooled around with a cheap radio shack iron for a long time and finally got a weller 80w. It made soldering SO SO much easier. I can't believe I waited that long to get a good iron.
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Old 01-08-2007, 05:58 PM   #29
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The hot iron philosophy is good but dangerous to noobs. I have one of the Weller 80W stick irons as an emergency backup and only as a backup. You can't control the temp and if you let a noob build a pack with one, I'll bet money they overheat their cells pretty bad.

I have 3 other stations and prefer my old Weller ESD station. One important part is getting a wider tip and you don't need to get it that hot.

There are two main tips besides clean surface, clean tip, good iron I haven't seen here yet. First and foremost is FLOW. Once the solder melts, your job is not necessarily done. Keep the iron [read:heat] on the joint (right between the items joined when possible) for a bit after the solder melts. You should then see the pool flow through the entire joint, then remove iron. The other main key is hold it dead steady! If you move the items being joined while cooling, you are just asking for a cold solder joint. For noobs, these often look less than shiny and sometimes pitted, and they are brittle and prone to cracking easy. Good flow and a steady cool down should eliminate most cold solder joint issues.

All that said, batteries in R/C and dealing with the fat wires we use are far from the easiest things to solder. It takes a lot of patience and skill to get good at it. Don't expect it to look like the pros overnight.
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:55 PM   #30
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I don't ever plan to be good enough to solder up a battery, I'm content with just buying used ones off you racers who build them. I just wanna be able to solder on deans and motors and such.
Looks like I need a new iron and some flux capacitor. lol
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