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Old 01-03-2007, 05:19 PM   #16
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thanks guys for all the info, it has been a huge help , i am going to get another motor and run a heatsink fan on it in the car as well, and gear it correct right from the start, i will post on here once i get the new motor and try it all out, it will take a few days to come in tho..


thanks again...
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:14 PM   #17
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As an example my decent Monsters produce around;
24,500rpm and around 90Nmm torque.

My CO27 at first produced;
21,500rpm and 95Nmm
this has now dropped to;
22,000rpm and 82Nmm although the armature still looks like new

These results are at 5V (actually 4.8V as my mchine is old )

Losi, are you sure the sticker doesn't say N per mm not Nm?

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Old 01-03-2007, 07:37 PM   #18
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its definatly 97 Nm, thats not much diff than yours is it not?
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:55 PM   #19
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hello everyone,

I recently picked up my first CO27. I have a few questions concerning the CO27.

1.What size are people cutting their CO27 down to for max performance?

2. What brushes/spring combo provide overall good performance for racing Touring cars on carpet?

3. How should I break in the motor with your suggested combo?

4. What temp range should I keep the motor in when racing?

Thanks for all the help.

Cheerz
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:50 AM   #20
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Hey guys I geared the motor to 34.8mm total rollout for one last attempt to save it, hopeing less max rpm might bring the heat down, but it didnt , It went up in smoke very bad after 2 min run.
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOSI123
Hey guys I geared the motor to 34.8mm total rollout for one last attempt to save it, hopeing less max rpm might bring the heat down, but it didnt , It went up in smoke very bad after 2 min run.
Sound's like you may have had a dud.

How was your gearing compared with others running a CO27?

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Old 01-07-2007, 08:49 PM   #22
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I hate to suggest something so basic, but are you sure there was no binding on the motor itself, for instance bushings? I see you noted car was ok.... Also, are you sure there was plenty of lube on the motor bushings?

It is entirely possible for damage in transit to affect motor performance, although normally they are probably ok from the package.

Finally, the rpm you mention for a Trinity pro tuned motor seem about 2,000 to 3,000 rpm too low for a CO27 from what I have seen (only about a dozen of them mind you).

Try to start in the recommended range of rollout before you overheat the motor and check temps during the run - don't let it exceed 165F until you have settled on a good rollout. Some drivers hit 200F on runs but this is hard on the magnets. If you have access to someone with a demagnetizer (I can get this $1.50 locally) then there is less reason not to run them higher temps when you have to. But I find around 200F is the edge of disaster-very easy to go over the edge and have them smoke and poof there goes your $35.

Let us know what happens next time around. Hope you have better success this time.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:58 AM   #23
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i have had the same problem with the motor getting hot, i ran the co27 at my club and had a ratio of 6.2 which was higher than what everyone was running and the motor was comming off to hot and had no top end compaired to everyone else.

changed the ratio then to 5.9 to what everyone was runing and the motor got hotter and still not at the same speed as everyone else was, and one guy that wins all the time running co27's had know idea of what was happening.

and whats the deal with this motor, seeing that it has a high torque motor what should the gearing be for a mid technical / open track?
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Old 01-08-2007, 06:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness
i have had the same problem with the motor getting hot, i ran the co27 at my club and had a ratio of 6.2 which was higher than what everyone was running and the motor was comming off to hot and had no top end compaired to everyone else.

changed the ratio then to 5.9 to what everyone was runing and the motor got hotter and still not at the same speed as everyone else was, and one guy that wins all the time running co27's had know idea of what was happening.

and whats the deal with this motor, seeing that it has a high torque motor what should the gearing be for a mid technical / open track?
co27t will run 2-3 teeth more then a monster on 48dp
But the co27t do run very inconsistence from 1 co27 to another
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Old 01-08-2007, 06:07 AM   #25
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that doesnt realy help, how do i know what monstor stock ratio is to add 2-3 more teath
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:03 AM   #26
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i run 6.5 to 6.3FDR with my CO27s in our local indoor asphalt track (rubber tires). its wide and pretty much flowing. motor peaks around 160deg after 5 or so minutes. might be of some help though i noticed you guys run foam.
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness
that doesnt realy help, how do i know what monstor stock ratio is to add 2-3 more teath

are you the ONLY one there running 27t then or is every one running co`s

also did anyone run monster @ track last year or so

anything to go by re;ratios
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:31 PM   #28
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Hey guys my motor was definatly a dud from day one, can mags where like overzapped i think, because from day one and even still now after motor has overheated so bad that it threw a wind and went up in smoke, it is extremly notchy (ie: magnetisum way to high). when its out of the car and you turn it by hand you can feel it.
I picked up a bunch of other monsters, co27, epic x and they where nothing like this motor ( they all had way less magnetisum/ notchyness)

Ohh and yes it was very well oiled on the front and back bushes and i even took the can mags out to check bushes for binding/ looseness and all was perfect.

I am going to run 540 now just for a while, until i get the bickies to buy a novak 13.5 brushless. I am way over brushed atm. lol
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:39 PM   #29
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Darkness:

If you have not yet done so , check your gear mesh and roll test your chassis without motor in. if you have done this or all is ok then ditch the motor it sounds like a dud, go and buy like 2 more, One of them is bound to be good or
check them out for rpm on sticker before you buy if you can.

Then just gear it the same as every one else at your club & install a fan type heatsink on the motor, and dont worry about the extra weight of heatsink fan as 25grams is worth stoping the motor fade/ wreking its total perfomance for good.

Other wise do what i am doing and get a 13.5 brushless.
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Old 01-08-2007, 06:07 PM   #30
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yeah i think your right about the motor being a dud. ill probably go back to racing 540 as i know i can win
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