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Old 06-19-2003, 02:46 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally posted by Charlie
If you didn't purchase it locally and the distributor cannot assist, the item would need to be handled by use directly. You can send it through our normal service procedures. The last customer I had to work with in Australia, had is product back 2 weeks after he sent it in.



Thanks
Charlie
Thanks Charlie for your help. I am hoping I don't have any hassles with mine when I eventually get it

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Old 06-19-2003, 05:45 PM   #152
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Okay, You should be fine though, I wouldn't worry too much. Just gear it correctly and read the instruction manual.

Regardless of how many "stories" of failure you see/read/hear, we still have many many extremely satified customers. They may not come on a message board, or hoot and hollar at their track that its great. If all of those folks came on these boards there would no questions regarding failures or "relibility". We run into these reports all the time with new product sometimes it's a big problem, sometimes it's not. At this poin engineering does not see anything as a big problem. The failures that we have seen are fairly common with "any" type of electronics and nothing more than we've dealt with in the past. I really wish we could make %100 product (but then I'd be out of a job) but no company can, even the biggest most advanced electronics will see some failures. But we know the rest so I'll stop there. I cannot explain multiple failures though. Generally they are related to different problems. But from time to time, we will get a customer that has very bad luck with our equipment. Even in those situations, we almost always get the issue resolved.

Oh dear, got a little carried away there. Sorry.

Thanks for your time,
Charlie
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Old 06-21-2003, 05:53 PM   #153
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Hi Charlie,
I have a theoretical question regarding the gearing of the Super Sport Brushless.

In the Instructions it says to start with a gear ratio of about 7.3:1 and not less than 6.5:1.

Is there a limit above the 7.3:1 that is not recommended. What I mean is Would a ratio of 8:1 be detramental to the system. I am not saying that I would want to gear it like this, I was just curious.

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Old 06-21-2003, 06:21 PM   #154
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Default Re: CHARLIE

Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
Hi Charlie,
I have a theoretical question regarding the gearing of the Super Sport Brushless.

In the Instructions it says to start with a gear ratio of about 7.3:1 and not less than 6.5:1.

Is there a limit above the 7.3:1 that is not recommended. What I mean is Would a ratio of 8:1 be detramental to the system. I am not saying that I would want to gear it like this, I was just curious.

Thanks
Steevo
8:1 will just yeild a slower top speed and will not harm the Speedo or motor.
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Old 06-26-2003, 05:32 PM   #155
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Charlie,

I have to gear to 9.0(22/93) to keep the temps down, any higher or lower and the ESC, motor and battery get really hot.

Could this 'problem' be due to my incredibly small diameter tyres? They measure 2"(50mm) across. What size were the tyres you used to get the recommended gear ratios in the manual?

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2003, 12:53 AM   #156
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Hello,
Just got a Super Sport System and I was wanting to know from the guys using them if the recommended 7.3:1 FDR is the best gearing to start with..
I am running a Tamiya TB EvoIII with B2 Tyres.

Any suggestions would be great

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Old 06-30-2003, 06:55 AM   #157
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Default Motor Problems

Charlie,

I wanted to when Novak will be releasings motors only
to sell. As I've said in my previous post we have been
running spec class NOVAK BL here at our club. Several
motors here have taken its toll.....motorshaft moving out
or back thru the sealed endbell. The guys find it expensive
to buy a complete new unit when its just the motor thats
busted....seem like the cylindrical magnet thats press fit into
the shaft comes loose. Please give use more info.

JPN
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:42 AM   #158
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Okay, sorry, I have to do it, there are to many direct questions here. Other folks would like to use the forum too. If you have anything further please email me directly.

[email protected]

At this time we have no plans to offer the motor by itself. Rotors moving has not been a mojor issue. So far there have only been a handful. If you have had more than 2 failures at your track, please have the customers contact us soon, customers not telling us about failures is what makes the problems worse.

The Gearing Recomendations in the manual are not entirly accurate for all situations. It is basicaly only for an on road sedan application. We have updated information on the website for offroad gearing. Trucks and buggies are geared much much "lower" (Higher gear ratio number).

Again, if you have any further "Charlie" questions, please email me.

Thanks,
Charlie
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Old 06-30-2003, 11:40 AM   #159
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Default Charlie,

I believe jpn is in fact informing you on behalf of our fellow racers of the problems we have been having and i think the public too has the right to know. Wether he emails you direct or posts it here, it's the same. Thats why we all are fortunate and thankfull having open forums like this on Rctech.

As jpn has said, we run the Novak System extensively over here at our club...almost 2 race meets a week. Some of us have had our units since March/April with no problems at all and it still performs as good as when new.

The problems may not be "major issues" as you say but they have been consistent. 3 brand new speed contoler deffects causing it to heat up and motor runs very slow, and now the 2 rotors moving.

Please don't get me wrong Charlie, I think this has been the best $250 investment i have had this year. jpn and i have been pushing this product since it first came out, and we have at least convinced racers and the track organizers to run this class as part of our racing roster......and we continue to do so.
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Old 06-30-2003, 05:36 PM   #160
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Glide, you're right, we have nothing to "hide" I'll do what I can here.

The rotors moving seems to be related to just defective rotors. At this point we have no explanation other than a bad part. We have taken steps to ensure this type of thing would not happen, but we had several thousand made so I'm sure we'll see a few failures here and there. As for the ESC's heating up and then getting slow, this has generally been related to 1 of two parts failing. Again, related to a component failure, nothing is being run past it's means so we are not sure why it has happened when it has. There isn't too much surprise there.
I've been here for a few years now, and failures are generally related to parts going bad. Many times, we don't do anything and the problems go away. At this point we have not seen an abnormal number of failures really. There were some initial software issues during the "setup" only, but that has been resolved. Engineering has taken steps to find out if we can do anything to prevent failures related to these symptoms.

At this point my advise for folks that have had a failure is to send it in for replacement as soon as you can so we can get it back to you quickly.

What I don't like about these types of post is, someone new coming to view this will not care to read the whole thing, they will then think there is something wrong with the SS, that is not the case at all. I get calls everyday with questions about something somebody wrote/read/said on the internet. Most times the full explanation was not read/given/available so the problem is left in the air. Even in situations when we do find a problem or something like that, it's hard to tell anyone with out creating some sort of very bad feedback. No one ever sees it as us trying to fix a problem, they look at is a bad product. Hopefully that will change as the hobby evolves.

Even this post will be taken wrong by someone I'm sure. Do I sound negative, it's hard not to be regarding the internet. LOL!!!


Thanks for you time and bring on the questions!!! (Just not gearing, I wish I could, but I canít keep track of all the Pinion sizes everyone needs to run for every kind of car. Gearing charts are available from every vehicle manufacture.)

Charlie
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:33 PM   #161
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Default Charlie,

We appreciate your time and effort clearing things up. I'm sure you and the team are looking into this. Having you answer questions here on the forum is a sign in itself that Novak strives to give the consumer the best possible product/support available. Thanks again.
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Old 06-30-2003, 09:26 PM   #162
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Charlie's doing a GREAT job here, fellas. Thank you!!


But just wondering... what's the "ok" max operating temperature
of the SS ESC and motor before we should be worrying about its
longetivity? When would the TempFet (?) cut in?

(just something for those in hotter climates to think about)
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Old 07-01-2003, 06:56 AM   #163
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the temp issue has been confusing alot of people(including me) but i think its just the ESC thats made that way,i once peaked at 230F in my xxx buggy i then made a air scoop and the temp is in the 160-170 now.
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Old 07-01-2003, 08:33 AM   #164
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Default Positive for Novak

Charlie,

I am very thankful for this forum. As a hobbyist I am very
glad that your good company takes time out to address these
issues in "public". Dont get us wrong cause were not here to
put your company down. I personally think in long haul
your company will be at an advantage with this. Your
competitors dont give sh*t what we say about their products
but you guys do and thats what counts to us end users.
At the end of the day I know novak will replace the motors
but with this forum and getting replies directly from you
company gives us the confidence to use your products more.

Best Regards,
jpn

Best Regards,
jpn
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:38 AM   #165
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I've had a lot of different ranges reported from customers regarding the "temp" of the ESC. Some customers are reporting our normal range of 160-180 F, but some customer are reporting much higher than that, but are experiencing no problems so far. Higher ESC's temps generally are related to the gearing and driving style required for the track (or lack of track). The ESC's heat sink is bolted directly so the heat will build and dissipate fairly quickly. At this point we are working on some temperature ranges that are "more official" but it looks like "generally" 160-180 is going to the norm. I've personally seen above 200 at the track and in my own car with no problems. We've done over-gearing test and had the ESC above 230 and it survived to be run again.

You see the problem with temp testing is the "blow" point is hard to measure, usually when we do over temp the ESC, it happens too fast to get a reading, or it blows and takes off so by the time we get to it, it's cooled of a bunch.

But I'll have to find out what the "Heat Sink" temp is for the Thermal Shut Off.

Also, there is always the possibility that a few customers temp guns were less than accurate.
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