RC Infusion.com

Hey Carmine,
Don't know if you got my last email. The servo saver shown in the instructions is a standard servo mount one. Your LHS should have one otherwise I carry them.
You need to get the right one for the servo you are using.

Rob

bigragu

hey rob
i got your email i never seen a servo savor with only one mounting hole
thats y i was wondering

bigragu

also rob did u turn your sterring rack up side down and how did that mod work out........

RC Infusion.com

The multiple holes on the servo horn I don't think really matter in your case, they make them like that in case you have independent steering rods connecting right and left sides. I the case of the Barracuda, you would just use the center holes, the closer to the servos output shaft, the less throw you'd have, so start with the center hole furthest away from the servos output shaft. Flipping the rack to above the shaft will result in the servo arm linkage having a straighter link to the steering rack, also reposition the steering knuckle ball links to the top of the knuckles. I liked it, I thought it had more even left to right steering. You will need longer bottom countersunk screws and shorter top caphead ones. As well, I did away with the servo mount blocks and Shoo Gooed my servo right to the chassis.

Rob

bigragu

thanks rob i figured it was to have straighter links...........ill use reguler servo saver and dremmel right corner so it doesnt interfair with link thanks buddy
let me know when those ceramic bearings come in

sbs

Hi

On my "Cuda" I have the sterring rack up side down ,
and I also like the way it performed after this mod.

bigragu

sbs what difference did you feel after this mod i understand about having straighter links..what differences did u feel driving the car.....thanks for input in advance...

sbs

Hi

The way I feel it is that I have got a car that turns in better (read more steering ) and as you can see on the pic. I have posted , I have used the 5.8mm balls from the camber-links on the steering rack and the servo saver , this mod. helped a lot in the way of steering -precision

radar

Hi guys. I saw a Barracuda a few months ago at the local track and thought it was cool. I am thinking of getting one. Spotted two Barracuda R3's on ebay. The used one looks like a better deal cause it has lotsa extra parts and batteries included. Could you guys who know the Barracuda take a look and let me know if it's a good deal?

see link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Alex-Racing-Barr...QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks,
RADAR.....ping.........

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Hey Rdar
I got one for ya..But it is the R2 xenon stage three....Come with the spares parts and hop up as well for 100 bucks ..cuz i don't run the car anymore...LMK

RC Infusion.com

Hey Radar,
If that price ($175) sticks, that's pretty good. There are a few things that come with that car that my not be a benefit if you are prone to hitting walls. The hard material keeps the angles better under duress, but are more brittle than the stock plastic. The aluminum steering rack also will bend and bind the steering when you hit something hard, fixable, but a bit of a pain. The scored center shaft holder mentioned is no big deal. Nothing really breaks on these cars though, so the spares included should keep you going (plus 3 the 3300 packs, nice bonus), if you had your heart set on a Barracuda, the R3 or Stinger is the way to go. Oh yeah, one other thing, I had read a while back that the sparkle chassis was more prone to delaminating than the black graphite one, my sparkle chassis split at the front so I switched to the black graphite one. Parts and hop ups can be obtained from my site should you choose to get it. www.rcinfusion.com
Hope this helps, Rob

xray racer

iTrader: (22)

hey guys,

a few quick questions...

firstly, everyone i've spoken to reccommended (aside from the comet or alex racing springs) Associated springs for my R2, however, i recently bought a set of them and they dont fit the shock retainers??? any help? does anyone run these springs???

also, my car is fitted with gold coloured eccentric (offset) pivot balls on the suspension but i also have the standard black items. i find it extremely difficult to get the rear toe-in right with the gold balls... i've been told if i use the standard black ones that will give me 0 deg toe- correct??? and then the angle stated on the rear uprights is the angle of toe i should have...yes???

if anyone could help that would be much appreciated and i appreciate the help of those who have assisted already.

OVA- did you get my pm???
cheers,
robbie

bigragu

i think i eaw back in these pages a long time ago that ass springs dont fit...
you might want to try team magic springs they fit very well..............

RC Infusion.com

Hey Xray racer,
I assume the springs are too tight on the retainer?, I've only used the Xray springs and they were tight. I ended up filing a bit of material away from each aluminum retainer to make them fit. They need to be a loose fit though and turn without grabbing the threaded adjustment retainer. I also grabbed the very top coil of the spring with pliers and bent it out a very small amount to increase the inner diameter of the spring, I found that worked well. You may get away with just doing that. You are right on the ream arm mounting balls, black is neutral and the toe is molded into the rear carrier, kit stock is 2 degrees.

Rob

TXR2Racer

Xray,

You can use thes same retainers that you already have on the R2 shock body... just reverse them. For the bottom spring catchers you can use the following; tamiya for any of the 41X series, rpm for the tc3, and rayspeed aluminum for the yokomo bd... The yokomo could be orders from any of the the hongkong sellers... They work well on the R2...

I hope my susgesstions help...